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Old 08-05-2018, 03:49 PM   #76
Lankku
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Drove a couple of laps on track and only oil pressure sensor stopped working. Ring connector broke between ring and crimp. Might be because of the positioning of the connector and shaking of the wire due time. Spun the insides while loosening the nut and didn't work after that. Replaced it with a new one later.

Again it was hot and didn't install bigger oil cooler yet and had to remove grille to control the temps better. Coolant temp started to climb immediately after oil temp got higher. Max oil temp was around 115°C so not that much really but enough to cause an effect.

DS2500 front pads worked great, much better than RedStuff. They wear faster but it's a price I'm ready to pay for the performance. Other big difference was the heat. Front discs were 380°C after cooling lap and with Red or Yellow I haven't measured over 350°C. Not even on faster tracks that are harder for brakes. Rears were 191°C with Yellow. With EBC's I have measured always around 100°C difference between front and rear. Swapped Reds back to front and boy it's a different world with those, so much less grip.

Hankooks(215/45 V12 Evo2 front, 225/45 S1 Evo2 rear) were also great compared to Nankang semislicks. You can feel the front tire starts to give in on a tight corners but I was still able to increase the steering angle without too much understeer. Nankangs just felt like they would slide and lap times were several seconds slower. Of course brakes were now better because of DS2500 but the car felt lighter to handle and felt faster on tight corners. Federal semis had better grip when I had those in front and I'm going to dump the Nankangs and buy a set of Federals.

Here is incar of the fastest lap. Still waiting turbo to spool when getting out of corners
https://youtu.be/79O9VSf0kxg

Two drive by shots(third gear) from a flagpoint, first around 0:15 and second 1:55:
https://youtu.be/06aiWr_k76g
Dunno why the rear tires would squeal so much in the first drive by Some exhaust note can be heard in the second one.


On Saturday it was time to make a check up to the engine. Was going to replace leaking stem seals(some exhaust side seals leak badly) and check the state of the head gasket and rod bearings.

Head gasket was basically intact and I believe it's only because of the block guard. Normally it would have moved a bit or be destroyed at this point with the abuse it has had. All upper rod bearings have small scorching area on the outer side of the top. Might be because of E85 residue or such? All surfaces feel and seem fine otherwise and the scorching can be bearly felt.

Since beginning of June the bottom end has had a small rod bearing-like rattle just above idle. I've waited it to become louder before any action. While bearings were ok, I found out that the Wössners have suffered the same fate as Wiseco earlier. All skirts have cracks in the oil squirter recess'. No wonder the rattle sounded familiar because it was the same but louder with Wiseco. Use has been hard but still not too nice. And yes, the piston clearance was exactly the given spec 0.07mm/0.0028".
Guess I'll build another bottom end with std bore and pistons and have a block guard installed to it.

The worst, rest aren't that bad and some just visible:
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Old 08-21-2018, 04:46 PM   #77
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Won't build a "stock" engine with H-rods. Instead have thought of changing to 143 or 147mm rods and DP pistons. If skirts on those would finally last. It's a project that has to wait for a while because I have other cars to throw money at


In the meantime salvaged a -78 265 gl from under two birches where it had sat around 6 years.



Previously on the road around 10.5-11 years ago. Originally B27A which had been swapped to a D24 & M46 and converted to a 2+3 van(cheaper paymets as a diesel vehicle) with a "hard" rear seat. Leather interior in ok condition, working front electric windows and power steering. Paint was bad already ~13 years ago when I saw it the first time so why clean good patina

It took just three evenings and one weekend(from Friday before the last to last Wednesday) to make it roadworthy again. Did some maintenance, welded a couple of spots, cleaned the windows and interior. Vacuumed leaves and trash from the cowl, heater core and front of the skirts. Also swapped in a healthier D24T engine, etc. Have done small maintenance after that and driven over 1000km/620miles after MOT last Wednesday. Swapped in a 23mm front sway bar from 95-> 960 and a 19mm rear, etc. small upgrades.




Rest of the pics here.
Bodywork and other repairs here.
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Old 10-26-2018, 10:20 PM   #78
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Lankku, Did the Motronic M1.8 self learn for the T6 injectors? Or did you need to change the injector values with a chip or ostrich? Ive got a set of 550s Im thinking of putting in before I go full blown teardown and T6 block on my M1.8 B6403 swapped 240

Ive got both an ostrich and a chip reader/burner so could do either.

Amazing build as always, really digging the green moss and blue on the new wags
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Old 10-27-2018, 05:57 PM   #79
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Quote:
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Lankku, Did the Motronic M1.8 self learn for the T6 injectors? Or did you need to change the injector values with a chip or ostrich? Ive got a set of 550s Im thinking of putting in before I go full blown teardown and T6 block on my M1.8 B6403 swapped 240

Ive got both an ostrich and a chip reader/burner so could do either.

Amazing build as always, really digging the green moss and blue on the new wags
Yes it did with E85 and 0.5-1bar higher fuel pressure. If you are going to use gas then changes are needed. Don't now anyone who has experience on tuning 1.8 so it's been as it is.

For some reason it seems like B6254 ECU is better for coldstarts than B6304S ECU. I've had two or three -95 B6254 cars/ECUs and now a -93 965 with B6304S. 3l requires more attempts to start a cold engine when 2,5l started with one try.

265 has had a new owner a couple of weeks now. Didn't want to drive it in the winter(without repairing the rust spots) and haven't got enought space to store it under the roof at the time. After selling that I bought a -93 965 from the same guy I bought 265 from Had also been sitting a couple of years but almost no rust on the body.
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:37 PM   #80
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Do a turbo build on the 960
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Old 10-31-2018, 04:06 PM   #81
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You mentioned using maxspeeding rods for the build. Were you able to purchase 6 rods from them or did you have to buy two sets of 5 to get enough?
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:29 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240wagonguy View Post
You mentioned using maxspeeding rods for the build. Were you able to purchase 6 rods from them or did you have to buy two sets of 5 to get enough?
You can buy individual rods on aliexpress.
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Old 11-01-2018, 02:40 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okoye View Post
Do a turbo build on the 960
That's one branch of the plans along with driveability. I did mostly buy it because I needed a winter car
Last week swapped in a M90, BC-Racing front coilovers with 450lbs springs(the same ones that I had in the V90) along with facelift spindles and 850/x70I brake calipers. IPD 25/25 sway bars, 302mm caliper brackets and some poly bushings might be here tomorrow. Grooved 302mm Ate Powerdiscs and pads just arrived.

Some pics just after buying here and changing to Gemini wheels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 240wagonguy View Post
You mentioned using maxspeeding rods for the build. Were you able to purchase 6 rods from them or did you have to buy two sets of 5 to get enough?
They and some other sellers will sell a set of 6 if you ask.
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Old 11-01-2018, 04:12 PM   #84
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Where did you pull the oil feed on the b6304? And did you do an up pipe for the holset setup. And does the 93+intercooler work for the turbo setup?
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Old 11-01-2018, 06:06 PM   #85
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On RWD blocks I've split oil feed from pressure sender and made exhaust manifolds myself. For 965 was thinking of using T6 manifolds as a base. With NA manifolds and up pipes it'll just look nasty.

The big 940 radiator has the same dimensions as a 960 radiator, so a stock intercooler fits into 960 as well. Never used one, always have had a 600x300x76 cheapo.
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Old 11-02-2018, 06:18 AM   #86
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Later single-turbo T6 manifold? What years? :D
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Old 11-04-2018, 04:19 PM   #87
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Using that type of manifold and flange makes a twin scroll exhaust housing useless. You (might) get a narrower rpm range. Aand Garrett is too expensive for my taste compared to the results over other makes.


In other news: installed previously mentioned parts in to 965. Now it just needs some power and I can call it a nice daily




I was suspicious of the 25mm rear sway bar being too much, but it doesn't seem to have much oversteer. Rear has old sloppy Nivomat shocks and their original springs(1 coil shorter) so it makes a lot. I wouldn't use any stiffer stuff on the rear for now. With this setup the balance and handling is quite nice on a small road with various bumps. I would like to have a stiffer front bar for ramps and other hard turns but this will do.
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Old 11-05-2018, 05:23 AM   #88
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And I'm not saying there's anything wrong. Older manifolds are surprisingly decent and why not the newer too.
What I'm interested in is that is your turbo single or twin scroll? Haven't seen the newer T6 manifold but in your picture looks like might have a dual outlet? Now you could have a good possibility to try if there is any difference by dividing the flange afterwards.
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Old 04-21-2019, 08:50 AM   #89
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Time to wake this thread up a bit.

965 got some Schwitzer off the shelf along with a better B6304. T6 exhaust manifolds with up pipes to the turbo and 850/x70R pressure plate with solid flywheel. Has served as a daily during the winter. It also received a quick facelift(unfinished) and both rear spoiler and a set of Aurigas from a 945 Classic which I had for a while.





The main car of this thread has been moving again since last Friday. It has another block with block guard and stock T6 pistons. New valve stem seals and a total of 1mm milled from the head because I want to have a higher compression than stock turbo 8.5. Have to visit a dyno at some point for adjustments.

Some new pics of the engine bay:





In other news:
Been looking for another 245 to build for some time and didn't find suitable candidates. Got one rolling -90 in exchange for previously mentioned 945. Then a week later friend offered a complete -92 B200F M47 which he got cheap. Before I picked that up, I bought back a red -90 B200F M45 which I sold around 4,5 years ago. If that's not enough a customer of ours offered a -88 B200E M47 because we had spoken about it last year. Didn't buy it yet but the price is quite tempting

So, I was going to use the rolling chassis as a base but chose the -92. I'll just transfer -92 engine and -90 M45 to the rolling one and make a M47 swap to the -90. Red -90 is so good base for a restoration that I'm not going to build it more than swapping the transmission and doing some mods that won't be seen. Just have to paint both sides because of a bad paint job, change drivers seat(or just upholstery), speaker grills and mostly tidying up. I had a 850 drivers seat in but it was changed to a 240 seat with wrong upholstery.

I've started with the -92, repaired a couple of rust spots, checked the brakes and stuff and it's almost road legal again after sitting some time. Cat is damaged or empty and have to change that to clear the emissions test. After that I can start the build, easier to test drive when it's road legal(at least on paper). It's also tenth white 240 I have owned, -88 would be 11th if I buy it
Some pics here

For now -92 will receive engine version 1 which is 965's old block, 2.5l head with 1.5mm milled off, 204hp cams, newer style timing belt, M90 tranny with dual mass flywheel and stock manifolds. Engine is almost assembled and transmission is waiting for assembly.

Evo 2 will include T6/2.9l crankshaft, 147mm rods, cams with more lift, compression suitable for NA, home made manifolds, lighter solid flywheel, etc.

Red -90 is a stranger in that sense, that it doesn't have power steering or central locking and has a M45 but it has metallic paint.
Old pics here.
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