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Old 05-30-2018, 11:18 AM   #76
vintagewrench
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planetman View Post
Volvo still sells an angle drive made by VDO, part # 666756.

FYI, the original angle drive Volvo used to sell had a shorter connecting tube.
Thanks Eric, Hope you and Ian are doing well.
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1967 1800s - - - 1968 122s Station Wagon
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:48 PM   #77
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Meanwhile after a four-wheel alignment, 1150 miles of Vermont paved and gravel roads, dust, dirt, raindrops, and more than a few perished bugs later…….it was a delightful drive and most of everything is working well. It then enjoyed a good wash and wax.

Last edited by vintagewrench; 06-04-2018 at 07:56 PM..
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Old 06-11-2018, 01:25 PM   #78
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Was able to get another smaller job almost finished over the weekend. The previous owner of the 1800s had removed the original package tray and rear seat backing and replaced it with a taller one to showcase a set of speakers for an added sound system.

After getting the original Volvo optional AM-FM mono radio rebuilt and restored, a correct new plywood rear seat back and package tray was in order. Using the original carpet that covers this area and a scaled drawing with dimensions supplied thanks to chrsvo a member of the UK Volvo Club Forum I was able to convert the measurements into inch size and fab the two pieces out of the correct-sized 3/8" thick plywood.

The photo shows it installed in place to check the fit. Two machine screws hold and locate the bottom piece in place on two brackets and on either side are four wood nuts that the folding seat back hinges attach to. The top piece is held in place by four machine screws and the chromed pieces that hold the leather luggage straps used when the seat back is down attach to a pair of brackets w/caged nuts are under this piece of wood.

A few details still need finishing and at this point either a rare period Blaupunkt speaker and housing or the original Volvo speaker and the grille seen on the top will be used. The car still has all of its original carpeting is in good condition and the piece that covers this will be re-installed.

Last edited by vintagewrench; 06-11-2018 at 01:36 PM..
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Old 09-02-2018, 04:26 PM   #79
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Haven't posted for a while because of a decision to use all of my spare time to get the 1800s ready for its first competition event. All of the work over the winter and spring is now paying off.

I'm a member of the Vintage Sports Car Club of America (VSCCA) https://www.vscca.org and entered and drove The Old Motor Volvo 1800s in the 2018 VSCCA Mt Equinox Hill Climb held on August 11 & 12th, 2018.

Got in 11 timed runs over the weekend up the challenging access road that is 5.2 miles long, has 40 turns and 20 switchbacks, and climbs to 3140 feet over the distance. The average grade is a quite steep 12% grade and many of the switchbacks and the steeper areas are 30% and over.

The car did great and was competitive with other cars of its type and was quicker than most.

I'll add in more info soon. Next stop in the Series is Lime Rock Park Raceway Sept 27,28, and 29. http://limerock.com






Last edited by vintagewrench; 09-03-2018 at 10:31 AM..
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Old 09-03-2018, 01:22 AM   #80
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Looks like a fun event! Thanks for sharing the great photos.
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Old 09-04-2018, 06:11 PM   #81
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In the rain after it was all over before heading home.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Looks like a fun event! Thanks for sharing the great photos.
Thanks 242gt, it was fun, the photographers captured some nice shots.

Some of the pre-race prep included lightning the car as much as possible which included taking out some of the interior which is easy to put back in for normal driving after the event, the following were removed: the rear seat and package tray, and the support for the bottom cushion, and the passenger seat. It all results in about a 85 lb loss of weight.

The total along with the removal of the bumpers and irons previously, and the interior pieces and brake booster over 200 lbs can be removed, it costs nothing, improves performance, and results in no non-reversible modifications to the car.

The brakes are working very well with the new EBS "Green Stuff" front pads so the non-original Lockheed brake booster was removed (the original came w/the car) to see how the brakes would operate without it. Was pleased to find that it stops very well without a lot of pedal pressure and resulted in a loss of around 30 more pounds.

The brakes did get hot coming down Equinox in 3rd gear using them sparingly. 2nd gear was better but the rpms were at about 4500 in the steepest spots. Will wait and see how the pads do racing at Lime Rock Park later this month.

As a part of operating the shop, part of my job is publishing The Old Motor (easy to Google,) a website all about pre-1966 automobiles with new content added 6-days a week, which you might enjoy. Go to the site and search for Volvo in the search box, and you can find an article written about the 1800s and the Hillclimb that contains all of the details to numerous to post here. Sorry not to include link to the post here because Google down-rates search results for websites w/links from online forms.

Last edited by vintagewrench; 09-04-2018 at 06:28 PM..
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Old 09-10-2018, 04:13 PM   #82
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Recently made up this Sport Exhaust for racing at tracks that require mufflers and for driving to and returning from the track if I don't want to load the tools, equipment, and the car into the shop trailer and tow it there. The length used was that recommended by Volvo Competition Services (VCS) to help extract the exhaust from the engine and produce more power across the RPM range.

This system is LOUD if you rev it up quickly, are climbing a hill, or above 4000 rpm while driving it on the road. Planing on adding a removable baffle into the end of the pipe to quite it down a bit for road use. It adds to somewhere around five to ten HP and also eliminates about 40 pounds of weight due to using no rear pipe, muffler, clamps and hangers. Headers really are not needed as the stock 4 into 2 manifold design is excellent and VCS reports the only four more HP was made using one of its 4-2-1 headers probably at over the 6500 rpm rev limit of this engine.

The system is made up of a larger B20 2" two-into-one front pipe that also fits the '67 B18B manifold, a VP 2" straight thru Sport Muffler with an offset center for more ground clearance, a 2" mandrel bent elbow and a straight length of 2" pipe.

No modification or holes need to be drilled in the floor or frame members for a hanger. Remove one of the four white plugs in the rear right-hand side floor and the necessary hole is available. A short mild steel tab with a hole drilled and tapped in it for a 5/16" fine thread is welded to the front side of the straight length of pipe below the center of the hole in the floor.

Three one-inch cupped engine water jacket core plugs were drilled to 11/16-inch in the center for clearance necessary due to exhaust system vibration. Two short medium-strength springs (heat has not affected the temper of the springs) that are used inside of the cups both above and below the floor. In this case, a stud with a lock nut at the bottom of the tab on the side of the pipe was used and a nut and lock nut or a locking nut can be used at the top above the top core plug to adjust the spring pressure.

This system adds somewhere around five plus HP and also eliminates about 40-lb. of weight due to not using the rear pipes, muffler, clamps, and hangers. It has been driven over 1000 miles that includes 66 miles of competition at the Mt Equinox hillclimb. The increase in power is noticeable.

Will weld the section of it the behind the muffler together soon, and also make up a short section of straight pipe for use on tracks that allow open exhaust.

Disregard the mud on the bottom of the car, the shop is located on one of Vermont excellent packed gravel roads.


Last edited by vintagewrench; 09-10-2018 at 05:17 PM..
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