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91 Regina 740 No Start

Doesn’t Regina not care about vacuum leaks because it’s map based? But either way I fixed some vacuum leaks. Also i swapped in another MAP sensor and IAT sensor and no difference. CTS is new, crank sensor is new. I don’t think an IAC would stop the car from running either, especially when i give it gas.

The owner of this car used it as a trail rig essentially so who knows what has gotten wet...

Guess I could check the fuel pressure regulator.
 
Smells extremely rich. Got it running on its own.

Where is distributor located...in the head or the block? If block distributor, and it was twisted about, one has screwed the pooch, most likely.

Smells rich suggests you got the wrong CTS, or spark is weak, but you claimed plugs were dry, which suggests a misdiagnoses.

Disconnect CTS....in warm weather, Regina will assume its upto temperature.

What year?
 
Where is distributor located...in the head or the block? If block distributor, and it was twisted about, one has screwed the pooch, most likely.

Smells rich suggests you got the wrong CTS, or spark is weak, but you claimed plugs were dry, which suggests a misdiagnoses.

Disconnect CTS....in warm weather, Regina will assume its upto temperature.

What year?
1991. He?s replaced the CTS with a new unit from iPd. They?re the same as lh2.4 right?
 
1991. He?s replaced the CTS with a new unit from iPd. They?re the same as lh2.4 right?

I said unplug it on a warm day, then drive on. See how it runs when engine temp is at operational temp.


I'd have to check, but I think CTS is different on Regina
 
Here’s a ~4 month update. Had my buddy tow the car to my house where i have my own tools and another regina car to parts swap with. Jumped the 91 and it ran, but poorly and would die (as shown in video from earlier). I started it and had it idle for about 30 seconds or so and then measures exhaust temps. 1 and 4 were about 160F, and 2 and 3 were cool to the touch. Pulled cylinder 2 plug and it was getting a very very intermittent spark. Same with 3. So it’s essentially a 2 cylinder.

Swapped ignition coils and cylinders 2 & 3 plug wires from another Regina car (known good) and no change.

So as of now we are basically almost completely lacking spark on 2 and 3. Plugs were wet with fuel and had little to no spark, even after swapping coils and plug wires.

Plans for tomorrow are to first try a different set of plugs. This car has some weird NGKs in there, perhaps iridiums? I know redblocks don’t like those. If that causes no change, I’m going to swap cap and rotor, then distributor.
 
Doesn’t Regina not care about vacuum leaks because it’s map based?

Well, I see it's been a while since you made this post...

Regardless, this is an interesting belief. Please elaborate as to why you feel that the approximate pressure in the manifold would be sufficient for the absolute metering of fuel.
 
Well, I see it's been a while since you made this post...

Regardless, this is an interesting belief. Please elaborate as to why you feel that the approximate pressure in the manifold would be sufficient for the absolute metering of fuel.
I have checked thoroughly for vacuum leaks, and I do not believe a small leak would ever cause a no start like we were having. It was definitely spark related. But anyway, i have seen MAP based cars run without intercooler piping and they can be fully driveable unlike MAF based cars. The MAP sensor accounts for how much pressure is in the mani and makes its calculations off of that as well as input from the IAT. But that?s just what I assume. Not entirely sure if that?s the case with volvos.

Also, redblocks *love* NGK plugs.

Maybe not iridium plugs, IDK about those...
Yeah redblocks Love BPR7ES and other heat ranges. I?ll check what his car has but I think he said his problems only really started arising after the plug change. I?ve swapped different plugs in the past with no difference but I?ll try again today.
 
Vehicle has BPR6EGP plugs. Not what I’d normally run but should work.

Here’s where we are:
Swapped plugs, wires, distributor, ignition coil (bendix?), bypassed the RSR to confirm 12v to the injectors, bypassed the FPR to ensure the pump runs, verified cam/crank timing 3 times. Still only running on 1 and 4 barely. So we are lacking spark in 2 and 3 90% of the time, and i also think we are lacking fuel sometimes too. Plug 2 wasn’t very wet after after running for a while. Little to no throttle response while running, which is to be expected because it’s a 2 cylinder.

What would cause no spark on 2 and 3?

Just swapped the computer on the passenger side (bendix) with a known good, and no change.

Is there a separate computer for Rex? Edit I think there is and it’s in the same location as the ignition computers on the LH cars.
 
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If the flex plate was 180 degrees out, would it run at all?

I’m thinking that cylinders 2 and 3 are not getting spark because the computer doesn’t know where the crankshaft position is at. Gonna swap in a spare CPS again and see if there’s any difference.
 
Folks. Turbobricks gods. JohnV. Gagathon. Anyone. Please help my poor ignorant soul. I am far too stupid to work on volvos. I have no idea what I’m doing ever. Don’t even know how I made it this far. I am asking for help.

We are >< this close to yanking the redblock and doing a long term carb’d SBC install. Im convinced that would actually be easier than fixing this car.

Where do I go next? I have parts swapped everything and had no changes at all. What in the world would cause 2 and 3 to not receive spark at all? I figure it has to be crank sensor or wiring related. Bad signal from the crank sensor, dirty flexplate being hard to read, ??????

My next plan is to check continuity from every pin on the ignition computer to its corresponding circuit. See if there’s any break or oddly high resistance.
 
I'm starting to think it's a tone ring issue and the computers have no idea what is going on/where the crank is at some times. Is it possible that the tone ring is dirty or has something blocking a space where it is supposed to be read? I know that sounds far fetched, but this car has been through absolute hell and off-roaded many times in mud and water.

Anyone have a clear picture of the regina tone ring?

There's something funky about the mounting bracket on this car. Old CPS was seized and owner had a shop replace it. But it stopped running long before that was replaced.
Brickboard said:
Bent Flywheel Sensor Plate. The sensor uses a toothed plate mounted on the flywheel to sense revolutions; if this is bent, it will not record the pulse. Odd symptoms, including difficult starting and poor power, may result. Bending commonly occurs when working around the flywheel or when jamming the ring gear to change the timing belt, so be VERY careful when working in that area.
 
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s-l600.jpg
 
Thank you. So those longer non slotted portions tell the computer the position of the crank, correct? Is it unheard of to have a dirty tone ring or something else causing an iffy signal?
 
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