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B230FT 13G to 16T downpipe position

Fa182

Stage 1
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Location
Austria
Bit of a stupid issue but here goes. 1997 945T.

I need the downpipe welded way before I replace the stock 13C with a straight flange 16T. I don't have access to a welder anywhere near where I'll be working, so it should fit straight away when I put it in.

My question, will the outlet of the straight 16T be in the exact same spot as the conical 13C? If so, I can just cut the conical flange off the other downpipe I have and weld the straight flange on it, right?

Thanks.
 
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Probably, the exhaust system is separate from the car so there's like some wiggle room if need be. If it's a straight flange and not an angle one then you have good odds, but who knows.
 
Not sure if it'll be in the same spot because I have neither. BUT...

This is usually why a lot of the downpipes people make/use on these cars have some component of flex-pipe on them AND why they're slip fit into the rest of the exhaust. This allows for motor mount flexing, fore-aft position changes and of course... adaptability.
 
Stock means you have a 13C, not a 13G.


If you can cut and weld, then yes, you can make the downpipe work.
 
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Sorry, of course I meant 13C. Not sure what you mean by bolting up the turbine housing? My question is basically if the outlet of the straight 16T will be +/- the same spot as the stock 13C is.
 
Best to tack weld that flat flange to the downpipe hooked up to the turbo and in the car all hooked up, then take it out to final weld it, as it's a fixed flange and doesn't move like the conical one. That is what I do. Or get conical 15g hotside, that bolts right on.
 
Best to tack weld that flat flange to the downpipe hooked up to the turbo and in the car all hooked up, then take it out to final weld it, as it's a fixed flange and doesn't move like the conical one. That is what I do. Or get conical 15g hotside, that bolts right on.

Yeah I hope to get it done this way somehow, but I'm not sure I will have access to a welder, hence my question. The 16T is on its way, so no 15G option.

I guess the only proper way is to do it with a welder nearby.
 
To get you to a muffler shop for proper fitting and welding, you can use thin sheet metal and some big hose clamps to join up your new turbo and old down pipe, but only as a very temporary setup. Try looking for roofing flashing at the local hardware / lumber store. Sections of big tin cans can work too -- the old Foster's larger beers were great but they're aluminum now.
 
The problem is that the 16t prob has a fixed flange while the stock 13c has a floating flange, the biggest issue with this getting the angle 100% perfect off the car, you really need to do it on the car.

Another option is to ge ta conical turbine housing off a 15g (94-95 850T) and then it would 100% bolt up as is to the stock downpipe. From there you could take it to an exhaust shop and swap the turbine housing in the parking lot ( maybe an hour) and have them custom build a downpipe for it then with the correct clocking of the flange.

Another option is to have a 3" vband welded to the turbine housing and then you might be able to get a shop to make something work with that and a new downpipe.
 
Thanks all for your answers. I guess I just need to do the swap with access to a welder and do it on the car.
 
Yeah like I already stated.. The correct clocking is only one part of the deal, also it has to be welded at the correct angle also or your downpipe might go down to far and be draggin low like an old nutsack and hit and scrape the assfault in your driveway crack and break it and fall all down.
 
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Is that directed towards me? Not sure what I said to upset you other than saying thanks to your reply?
 
No. You can use 15g conical hotside as it's a tdo4HL, HL being the important thing so it's same as a hotside on a 16T or a 19T.

The 15g conical hotside is the same as your stock 13c and it would bolt right on and work with a 15g or a 16T or a 19T. All being HL spec.
 
I do not plan on using a 15G housing as this is even harder to find around here than a full 15G or 16T.

I guess you can only tell if the 16T is in the same position as the 13C when it’s actually mounted on the manifold.
I will just mount the 16T while having a welder around, that is just the easiest way.

Thanks for all your input.
 
16t same position as 13c makes no sense. The flat flange output is set so you have to weld the downpipe with it all in the position it needs to be in or it won't work nicely. The part that you have to reclock is the the cold side on the 16t, has nothing to do with the output side the hotside of the turbo housing, that part bolts onto the manifold and can't be moved.




https://www.ebay.com/itm/PULL-OFF-O...d=263119026616&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
 
Yes I understand that clocking the turbo has nothing to do with the hot side. Nevermind my question now please, I should have access to someone with a welder where I can do the swap properly.

Anyway thanks for the link. Buying used parts from ebay overseas is much more expensive now since they introduced the "global shipping program". I just had a look, for that turbo only, it would be 60$ import charge alone w/o shipping. I paid no import charges when I got the turbo from Jonathan... Damn ebay.
 
Maybe look on ebay UK. I didn't realize you where over there. Yeah leave the downpipe bolted in to the rest of the exhaust and then put the 16T in there and then what I did was cut that old conical moving flange plate off and then hold the downpipe up to the flat flange of the turbo out and tack weld it in a couple spots then take the downpipe off and weld it up fully. I've done it a few times, if you use the factory flat flange downpipe flange(off a front wheel drive volvo) you can grind the old pipe off it and it mates up real good to the conical flare of the stock downpipe.

Other option like lostart said is weld a V band flange to the flat flanged turbo output housing. But that is cast iron and hard to weld to, but would be a good option if you can swing it.
 
Yeah I‘ll just go with cutting the conical end part off of the RWD downpipe and weld the straight flange on it.
 
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