Mountain Driving

[architectom]

This is going to start out as an abstract question:
Given a 83' 245 w/ ~120hp, and 4spd, what can I do in the course of modifications short of simple more power to manage hard mountain driving- Planning a trip that will take me from CT- to the Blueridge pkwy, to Southern WV, through the mountains to central NC, then west to Nashville, and up through Louisville- then back north through WV, through western PA, through the NJ- traversing all sorts of mountain ranges- which involve extended 7%grades... our 9-5 Aero combi does this with ease, as does our truck, but having driven through the Rockies in a 89' 245, I anticipate a laboring Volvo loaded with my wife (she's not big ) , our son, and luggage...

Would an adjustable cam-gear help? how many degrees advanced?
Should I pro-actively replace the clutch?
Other than my AAA card- any ideas of parts I should bring with me? given that many Volvo parts are at least a day away in the rural south.

Money is less the object here than having a great trip w/o vehicle issues. I drove my 87' from RI to NV, north, and back- was rearended, insurance totaled the car, replaced the trans mounts, lines, drive shaft support, universal joints, and bumpers in a friend's drive-way, and drove it back to RI, only to give it to a friend who moved to Asheville w/ it and traveled regularly to Kansas City- So I don't doubt the 240's ability, just want to have the new-to me 83' sorted, and figure out how to make it an easier trip given less hp-

[klr142]

Put in a more aggressive camshaft than stock on that model, such as the B cam used in earlier models, a VX, A, D or V15NA cam, to retain some torque and pick up a decent chunk of midrange/top-end. That is the quickest and easiest way to pick up more power to make the car move and maintain momentum, coupled with advancing the ignition timing a few degrees(~16 at idle is usually ok, but listen for detonation and retard if necessary) and running premium fuel.

When you swap the new camshaft in, set the intake clearances on the tighter side and exhaust clearances on the looser side. I would run .013" or .014" on the intakes and .014" or .015" on the exhaust side. If you want the idle to be as smooth as possible, stick with closer to .016, .017 or .018" on the exhaust valves(factory spec). Anywhere in between is "ok", but trying to get them all the same will give the best smoothness.

[vvpete]

Firstly, do Everything that you find applicable to a 240 suspension improvements you find in a search here.

I tool around the US of A in my 245 all the time, fully loaded, cruise (up) mountains at 80+, and handle just about every highyway I've been on.
I did Deals Gap in my 245 with the 130 lb big dog and 600 lbs of camping equip, 2nd gear, ripping the corners, had a few later Mustangs pull over and let me by. It was raining and those wimps just couldn't cut it
That was a trip I made from Dallas to Knoxville to Charleston, to Port Charlotte and back to Dallas in 10 days.

My N/A is not a 300 hp modified, just an n/a with a VX cam and maybe up to 150 hp from the butt dyno.

Once you get the suspension upgraded, some plus size tires and wheels, you'll find that 120 hp can still be a lot of fun.
Oh and that drive down the Skyline Drive to the Blue Ridge Parkway is one of the best cruises in the nation OMHO. I cannot count how many times I've driven it, but each time it's a thrill. I like to 'christen' my Volvo's by a detour on that streach of highyay on my east-west road trips.

[klr142]

Oh yes, definitely do some mods to the suspenders and tire situation so you can keep your speed up around corners! That will make a huge difference. And don't use cheap aftermarket brake pads(including PBR Deluxes), use cheap OE Volvo brake pads, they work much better than most of the off the shelf aftermarket stuff for 240s(unless you can find the PBR/Axxis Metal Masters or Ultimate/Ceramics that are supposedly no longer available).

[vvpete]

Originally Posted by architectom

This is going to start out as an abstract question:

Not on this forum.
The car you've got is a nice starter 240 for performance modded n/a. Your motor is the strongest of the redblocks, as it's B23F with 10.3:1 compression.

Manual trans or N/A?

I approve. I'm now doing up an '84 244 for this same reason. This motor can get you to about 145 hp without much else than a cam, free flow exhaust, and some creativity with the injection and ignition. +25 hp may not sound like much but in practice it is noticable, especially when you put the powerband where you tend to drive it.

Lots of ways to do it, as a dd comfort vehicle or one your wife complains of a sore butt after a few miles.

[propav8r]

Also make sure your cooling system is up to par...good quality radiator, newish thermostat, heater hoses, etc. I was up on the parkway for a few hours yesterday and saw temps in the mid-50s for ambient. I prefer to keep the heater control switched to warm and the fan off, and just let air flow through the heater core on long uphills.

[740volvo]

91 octane gasoline, A good tune up, change belts if needed to even take an extra one, also check the crank pulley. If it's not a two peace you have nothing to worry about.
Things I'd take, water, alternator/ water pump belt, duck tape, flash light (tools) a good spare a four way and a jack.

Have fun out there and most important be safe.

[architectom]

Thank You, I have driven all of this route in the past excluding the Nashville to Louisville Rt.- Valve clearances are great to have, currently running a VX cam which will go into a new head I am in the midst of building (to be partnered w/ a B21 intake manifold), straight exhaust, etc. I have not bit off the suspension project yet, that will come after the engine work.

[vvpete]

One of my fondest drives down the Blue Ridge Parkway was with a newly acquired 745 GLE right after I put on IPD sways, Boge Turo Gas shocks & struts and new set of Michelins. It really didn't need anything else, just some good driving. I had bought the car for my new bride, and couldn't get much cockpit time as she just loved how it drove after that. She was taking corners a 80 and loving it.

[klr142]

Originally Posted by propav8r

Also make sure your cooling system is up to par...good quality radiator, newish thermostat, heater hoses, etc.

You forgot two other parts that can be very important to airflow through the cooling system, also. The splash pan helps keep air from kicking back up behind the radiator and inhibiting flow through it, so having one helps keep it run cooler. Also, there is an air guide of sorts that you can fit in the openings of the chin spoiler that directs air from there up to the radiator - OR - there is another style that is just a block off plate that goes between the bumper area and the bottom of the alternator to ensure that the airflow through the grill makes it through the radiator and doesn't blow down underneath it.

If you don't have the splash pan, get one. I consider that mandatory. The other piece can be home made or ordered from Volvo(FCP or IPD may or may not carry them), if you can't find one in a junk yard. Most are missing from cars. You can also make something up to do that job. It helped my NA 240 with an auto a good bit with the extended uphill climbs with warm weather.

Originally Posted by architectom

Thank You, I have driven all of this route in the past excluding the Nashville to Louisville Rt.- Valve clearances are great to have, currently running a VX cam which will go into a new head I am in the midst of building (to be partnered w/ a B21 intake manifold), straight exhaust, etc. I have not bit off the suspension project yet, that will come after the engine work.

Make sure you get some tight squish while you have the head off by getting a thinner headgasket.

[vvpete]

Originally Posted by klr142

Also, there is an air guide of sorts that you can fit in the openings of the chin spoiler that directs air from there up to the radiator -
The other piece can be home made or ordered from Volvo(FCP or IPD may or may not carry them), if you can't find one in a junk yard.

Just a note that the small air diverter plate comes in two styles, one shorter one (IIRC '84-up) and a longer one for up to '83. I think it has to do with the bumper and where the air dam ends up, the longer one is for the early air dam, as it tucks into the openings of the air dam to divert air upwards to the radiator.

[architectom]

Recommendations for a thin head gasket?

[A-Bro240]

Cometic MLS from RSI

[casioqv]

Before adding power... make sure your cooling system is top notch, the engine is tuned well, and your suspension and brakes are great.

If you can run your motor at 4,000 rpm/wide open throttle all the way up mountains and it runs smooth and cool, you'll probably find that you do well on the trip without more power.

The most important thing IMO for peace of mind when running a motor at full power output for a long duration is a really good temp gauge with an audible alarm, so that you know long before you boil the thing over or run out of coolant (like this one, http://enginewatchdog.com/tm4.html).

Keep in mind that more horsepower = more heat for the cooling system to remove.