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1965 "Race Car" Amazon

matt b

Active member
Joined
Apr 12, 2007
Location
Tucson
Lofty title for a car that will essentially have a mild drop, a set of IPD sways and some shiny bits but hey, it's fine......

As it sat with the PO:

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Name of the car comes from the fact that this is Amazon #4 for me and I needed to differentiate it from my 4 door black on red Amazon (currently listed for sale).

Back story: bought the car sight unseen out of the Bay area (Richmond, CA) on Ebay. Seller was mildly honest in his description, and even that is a stretch. Passenger side upper shock had sheared off, no mention of that. Car was on 3 shocks, engine and trans were resting on cross member/engine subframe with only the transmission mount sitting in its place. There was rust, far more than was disclosed (trunk area on passenger side, floorboards, etc...)

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Took the car to a local restoration shop I trust and had them replace the rusty bits.

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The car came with a ton of spare parts, almost all in very good condition. I sold some, kept some and decided to run some of the parts I had here on it.

B20, M41, Classic Swede suspension package, IPD sways, etc....

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More to come... This one was purchased on mid May, it needs to be my daily by Labor Day weekend (1st weekend of September). It knocked off a solid month with travel and other commitments this summer, so I set myself roughly 30 days to knock it out. Should be fine, this isn't my first Amazon.
 
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Interesting vehicles in the background too.
 
that's an M46

looks like a good projects, hope you didn't spend too much

M46 is listed for sale, I won't be using it. Ian went through an M41 for me last year, I'll use that. Spent more than I would have liked given the condition of the car but I am able to use parts I had before this car, I get good rates on work done locally (body shop and machine shop) so all in all, this one won't break the bank.
 
Neat. What's on the door?

No clue, they were some oddball vynil cut outs that didn't look great, weren't centered properly and took away from the car. They went quickly. Heat gun + my 5 yr old, it took 10 mins to get them off.
 
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Engine subframe needed love. I used a spare that had been cleaned and powdercoated.

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Ignore the painter's tape, it's to remind me to finish stuff for that particular part (bleed brakes, align front end, etc...)

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Need to tack the inside of the door, looks like it has split in 2.

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Decided to give the Lowe's window flashing insulation a go, especially since Dynamat isn't cheap.
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Engine is a fairly basic B20B that I grabbed from an estate sale a year or so ago. Had a local machine shop go through it, fresh bearings, checked head, etc.... Oil pan is off while I install gaskets and accessories.

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Using BMW wheels (true 3 piece) I grabbed from Keysar some years ago. I had them on my 4 door but I wanted to keep them. Adapters, some trial and error and Voila.

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And that's mostly it for now. Trying to get better about documenting the builds on these cars, I figured a thread might help.

I'll keep plugging along. A 1959 Volkswagen Beetle is slowing my progress right now.
 
Another day, a little progress.

After a whole lot of shuffling, waiting on suspension parts or trying to get the parts from Classic Swede to work, I opted to get the engine and transmission in the car.

I'm weird about working on dirty cars, so I pulled the car out and gave it a quick bath.

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Engine was gone through by a local machine shop I use a lot. It received a fresh coat of the Volvo red used on redblocks and a few other clean up items.

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Matched up the rear main at a local seals and bearings place and installed it.

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Opted to install the flywheel and clutch but didn't notice that I had grabbed some old bolts from the PO that were not grade 8. One bolt could not handle 20 ft lbs....

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M41 ready to go

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Ran wires now to avoid fighting that once the trans was installed

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Engine jumped in the car, no work at all

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Then the accessories and other bits started going on. I had issues with heat soak on my previous carbs so I opted for some plates on these

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But not everything wants to play nice, most of that contact will be fixed once I tighten everything down.

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Header was of course way off in thickness when compared to the intake manifold from Redline. I had the header coated to avoid seeing rust again.

Other complaints about this set up from before was access to the oil filter. I had been dragging 3 remote filter kits for almost 10 years after a client cancelled his order. Finally put one to good use.

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I'll need to attach the lines to the fender to avoid rubbing through a brake line:

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And that's how it sits for now. Waiting on exhaust hardware, some random studs, nuts and miscellaneous gaskets that I forgot to order. This one will also get a one wire alternator, it's a simple mod and works well.
 
Very pretty stuff!

About the oil filter setup - I guess longer lines aren't really a negative, but couldn't you shortcut some of that? Or is it just using the premade lines? And is being that close to the header going to be a problem?

Always neat seeing someone do stuff right instead of the junkyard hacking I perpetrate. :zeeall:
 
Manufacturer says no turns smaller than 5 inches in radius, which limits me. But I agree, it would look much better without the massive bend up top. I may run another filter mount instead, with inlet and outlet being on the side and not the top.
 
If you want shorter oil lines use more AN fittings but you can do that once it's all done

What size carbs? 45 or 40?

Where did you get the heat shield plates ?
What header are you using? There's a bunch on eBay but I don't have any experience with them


Keep up the good work
Jack
 
Jack: headers are old 4 in 1 IPD headers that Greg (Keysar) sent me. He had them on his 142, I believe. 4 door car has the Patriot header. Summit carries that header P/N: PTE-H4850

Heat shield plates are from carbsunlimited.com, I'll have to either trim and bend the edges though. Both plates hit.

I'm running 40's on this car, some dude in CA bought my 45's. :-P
 
Slow progress this week since I have to focus on exports and finding the cars needed there.

Did fix the driver's door and installed new rubber all around. PO apparently included some 140 door scrapers which won't fit the 130 so I'll need to source those before I can say the door is done.

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Some of the guides in the door had broken off, causing the window to rattle.

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Bled the brakes, got to the last calipers and found out that even with 60 lbs of air pressure the thing was clogged. I have some rebuild kits and I'll rebuild it when I have a few hours to spare one evening.

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Despite assistance from Dai, a shock is seized and won't budge. I've tried to get it to move but it will need to get pulled apart in order to see why it's seized. Until then, I'm running some KYB oil shocks. Good travel, they usually hold up well and the car should be comfortable with them until I get the GAZ units figured out.

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It's all fun and games until a mistake is made.

Long story short, got the car buttoned up and ready to head down to the upholstery shop for a headliner. This was thanks to some massive help from Ian, JohnMC and a few others who chimed in on a no spark issue I could not figure out.

Even after figuring that out, the engine was having issues (odd noises, etc...) Shop I've used in the past took a peek at it: low compression on 3 of the 4 cylinders. What's really odd is that the engine was rebuilt, I never suspected anything would be wrong with it.

So, look like I'll be running a spare engine I have for now while I get this issue figured out with the machine shop. Bummed, I was hoping to have this thing done and running around 2 weeks ago.
 
How low is the compression?

DCOE's have an accelerator pump jet for every cylinder. This can wash the oil from the cylinder walls making it difficult for the rings to seat on a new engine.
 
Cylinders 1 and 2 have 120 psi. Cylinders 3 and 4 have 60 psi. Valves were so misadjusted on those two cylinders that they had no compression at first.

I do have a spare block that came with the car, rotating assembly is in it and untouched. I'm tempted to roll the dice and run it, with a head that has been milled. It's basically 3-4 hours of my time to swap engines, it seems worth a shot.
 
Come to think of it, I'm not sure that the shop ever pulled the pistons on this engine. I think they pulled the head, checked cylinder walls and re-assembled it that way. That would point to a head issue. But the other problem is the whining that we're hearing, which seems to come from the front of the engine. Here is quick video:

https://youtu.be/0rcWRJJ7tY8
 
I don't think the alternator is the culprit.

Either way, I'll run it down to the machine shop tomorrow and will let them touch it. They want to do a leak down test first before pulling the head. Works for me.
 
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