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#1 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Valdosta, GA
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![]() So as i am writing this on my iphone i am stranded at a bank of america parking lot. The temperature is like 87 degrees but i know when summer hits it will be absolute hell.
Anyways, the car is a 90 760 turbo, just as i was writing this the car decided to start. It will usually not start when i am normal cranking but will start a little earlier when i push on the gas while cranking. It will catch a little and keep catching until it actually starts. Once it has started up the rpms will go up and down between 500 and 1000. Afrs will be lean too for some reason. Car only does this when warm or hot. Things i have replaced: I have three radio suppression relays. At first i thought it was this and switched them when it was hot, it was not this. Also checked wiring from my other thread and it is a ok. I have a brand new crank position sensor in there(2 weeks old) New fuel pump relay So i hear power stage amplifier might be it? I dont recall the car doing this with stock injectors... |
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#2 |
<Master Tech>
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
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![]() 2 min is a spark check.
2 min is blast brake cleaner or starter fluid down its throat.
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No Start Thread |
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#3 |
<Master Tech>
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
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![]() Once spark is verified unplug the injectors and see if you can clear flood. Or pull plugs amd clear flood and start it on ether.
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#4 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Valdosta, GA
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![]() Quote:
Yeah during winter time car will run pretty well, now not so much. |
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#5 | ||
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Francisco
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![]() Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The one that tells the ECU what the engine temp is. That's what it sounds like to me. If it isn't bad, it soon will be. A $25 part. Get a real Bosch one, not aftermarket from the auto store. When these fail, they are intermittent and often show up during warm engine conditions. If the car is easy to start after it has cooled down for half an hour, then that's what it is.
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#6 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Monroe, OR USA
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![]() ^^ I agree that it could be the ECT, however, saying that if it starts once it has cooled down points to the ECT is a huge stretch. Starting after cooling down would be much more likely a bad power stage or the sensor in the distributor. That said, the lean condition does point in the direction of the ECT. It could be way off scale telling the ECU to lean out to the point the engine won't even start. Easy to test if you own an ohmmeter. I would test it right at the ECU so you get the entire circuit resistance reading.
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#7 |
<Master Tech>
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
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![]() Click my sig.
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#8 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Valdosta, GA
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![]() Ooo yeah. I'll do some tests tomorrow for spark after driving it for a while. Compression test done/checks out. all that is left is spark, and starter fluid. Then maybe air idk... Camshaft shims? If all checks out then im thinking i need to go get that ECT and powerstage.
Even at night time when it is cool. I had a hard time starting it when warm "temp gauge half wayish," had to mash the gas pedal while cranking to get it to catch. And catch is literally the word. I watch the tach and wait for the cranking and mashing on the gas to pop up the tach, thats when i know its finally catching. Hopefully its a easy fix. After looking at where the ECT is, it will be a huge pain to get to it. Do i need to remove the intake manifold? might as well do some cleaning if i have to do that. And checked your sig. I'll give it a try and get back with ya'll. Last edited by Fumomike; 02-17-2017 at 09:09 PM.. |
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#9 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Arkansas
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![]() Don't remove the AMM or any of that jazz to swap in the new ECT.
Changed the ECT on my '90 244 in about 15 minutes....tops. 19mm longish socket connected to a wobble joint to an 8" extension and a ratchet. Reached it from on top of the engine, through the intake manifold. A little teflon tape on the threads of the new one and fished it into the hole, then ratcheted it tight. |
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#10 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
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![]() your car is 27 years old, you should just replace everything
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#11 |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tallahassee, FL
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![]() I usually pull the throttle body to change ECTs at work. Deep 19 socket, 8-10 inch wobble extension, flex head ratchet. They're easy to get to with the right tools.
__________________
1978 245DL - B21 Penta carb powered! 1982 244T - Crushed 1983 245DL - SOLD 1984 244DL - Crushed 1984 245DL - Sitting in someone's yard 1991 740SE - girlfriend's car ![]() 2008 S60 2.5T - Money drainer |
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#12 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Arkansas
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![]() I mean.....$20 at a Harbor Freight for the extension, wobble joint and a 19mm long socket. Sounds a lot easier than pulling the throttle body. YMMV.
Then again.....this is the TB forum. ![]() |
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#13 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Portland IN
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![]() You can swap out the ECT in 15 minutes. All you need is a 3/8 inch ratchet, 4 inch long extension, and a deep 19 mm socket. Unclip the connector, Place socket with extension onto the sensor, attach ratchet to the extension and loosen while watching out for your knuckles.
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Trying to understand stupid people is like trying to pick up a turd by the clean end. |
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#14 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: At work or under a car
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![]() Did it easy with only a 19mm deep impact socket & 3/4" racket
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#15 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Valdosta, GA
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![]() Wow Power stage is ridiculously expensive. Not a part i can just randomly switch it. better test for spark first.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...dule-3501921oe |
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#16 |
Pro Sneaker Peddler
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PDX
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![]() You can test the ECT by putting a multimeter on the pins at the ECU connector and measuring resistance. A borked MAF or ECT is the likely cause. Seeing as you already have rich mixture codes this would make sense. Have you tested the things I recommended via PM?
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#17 |
Board Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: At work or under a car
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![]() Parts Cannon ?
* I saw these "Martin's Auto Parts" power stages on epay for $19.02 (quality??) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Mod...tXsrKm&vxp=mtr |
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#18 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Valdosta, GA
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![]() What things again? I'll check. I reset my codes, no rich mixture codes atm(one week since reset). However I am running rich at boost(550C). Just giving it time and fixing this hot start problem.
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#19 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: near baltimore
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![]() Quote:
__________________
-Art |
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#20 |
<Master Tech>
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
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![]() Man the parts cannon!!!!
Throw shims at it!? Powah stage too!? Maybe it's the crank sensor or the compression!? Slow down and learn how to test components. Your car has been very modified. I wasn't surprised to see a thread like this. Hard start with flooring it is likely flooding. |
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#21 |
<Master Tech>
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
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![]() Are you still in the parking lot?
If i had to guess i would say flooding from oversized injectors. Last edited by ZVOLV; 02-18-2017 at 11:14 AM.. |
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#22 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Valdosta, GA
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![]() Yeah thats what i was thinking flooding from oversized injectors, strage how it happens only when hot though.. I am not in the parking lot, after like 20 min it started and let me home.
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#23 | |
We don't even like Volvos
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
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![]() Symptoms are identical to mine when I had a bad fuel pressure regulator. It would hard start reallllly bad when warm.
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Current -93' 244 m47-iPd sways, 13c, iPd cam, 2.5” straight pipe -93' 245 m47-iPd sways, B-cam -90' 744 AW70:( stock as a rock Past -80' 242gt m46- -88' 245 m47-Welded diff, gutted, 13g Quote:
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#24 |
<Master Tech>
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
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![]() I recommend doing tests. Don't waste your money on parts darts.
For example, think it's the fpr? Get a gauge on there! Think it's the powerstage? Sprak test! LED light will read the 5v square wave signal FROM the ezk. No scope required. Think it's the crank sensor? Scope would probably be best, but even the LED test light will blink for you if it's working. I recommend buying an LED test light. Last edited by ZVOLV; 02-18-2017 at 04:56 PM.. |
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#25 |
We don't even like Volvos
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Missouri
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