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Cold weather's effect on old brake hoses

lummert

lummert

Active member
Joined
Jan 11, 2008
Location
Portland IN
Does cold weather make old brake hoses behave worse. I have never replaced the front brake hoses on my 88 765 in my 13 years of ownership. In cold weather the brake pedal seems hard and the front brakes seem to take too long to release, maybe the right side is worse than the left. When the weather is perhaps 5 degrees F warmer the brakes don't act up.
 
Who knows but I suspect the design life of the rubber hoses is something less than 30 years.

I have had them separate internally and not operate the calipers nor be able to be bled.
 
TestPoint said:
Who knows but I suspect the design life of the rubber hoses is something less than 30 years.

I have had them separate internally and not operate the calipers nor be able to be bled.
Click to expand...


Closer to 3 years...even if people leave on forever.
I know they're super expensive but:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1287031,brake+&+wheel+hub,hydraulic+hose,1792

BECK/ARNLEY 0731114 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info One of our most popular parts
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$4.51
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SUNSONG 2203055 Info One of our most popular parts
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SUNSONG 2204286 {#13295944} Info
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CENTRIC 15039305 Info
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CENTRIC 15034001 Brake Hydraulic Hoses Info One of our most popular parts
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Click to expand...

they're almost in the desired Turbobricks under $16.95 price point.

Why would somebody even have old hoses?
 
I upgraded to Jumbo Brakes maybe 2-3 years ago and couldn't get the drivers side brake line fitting loose so I just swapped the brake parts and went on. I already have the brake hoses. So I went to Autozone this evening after looking up the manufactured length of the front brakes lines for a 1988 765 with ABS still intact. Found the info @ www.volvopartswebstore.com

Left line is 710 mm in length. I bought Poly/Armour PAE-330 which is 762 mm (30 inches) in length.

Right line is 475 mm in length. I bought Poly/Armour PAE-320 which is 508 mm (20 inches) in length.
 
freevolvos said:
Make sure the pins are well lubricated
Click to expand...

The caliper pins? I just had the right side caliper loose checking the brake pads. The pads were at half of their original thickness and evenly worn. The pins were fine. But after messing with the caliper is when the brake issue started. I'm thinking I stressed the old brake hose.
 
Replaced the passenger side front brake line and brake hose this afternoon. The issue turns out to be a sticking caliper.
 
lummert said:
Does cold weather make old brake hoses behave worse. I have never replaced the front brake hoses on my 88 765 in my 13 years of ownership. In cold weather the brake pedal seems hard and the front brakes seem to take too long to release, maybe the right side is worse than the left. When the weather is perhaps 5 degrees F warmer the brakes don't act up.
Click to expand...


That's interesting, on my 92 240, the rear brakes only act up at temperatures above 20f

:roll:
 
Yesterday while freeing up both front calipers I was using the brake pedal to press out the pistons. I forgot to pull the vacuum check valve and blew out the booster. Today I went out to my friends junk yard and removed probably the only brake booster to be found in my area. It was raining today so I'll swap out the booster probably this weekend when it's not supposed to rain. The trade of is that it was warmer today and raining but this weekend it's not supposed to rain but it's supposed to be in the 30's.

And please note that driving a Volvo 765 with no brake booster (vacuum line disconnected and plugged) is like trying to stop the Flintstonemobile.
 
freevolvos said:
You got me why would that blow out the booster? Dammit lummert
Click to expand...

Not sure why pumping the brake could blow the brake booster. Once before when bleeding the brakes I blew a check-valve. Thinking the atmospheric valve in the booster can't take it if vacuum isn't maintained. Removing the check-valve may be the needed trick that lets the booster breathe when pumping the brake.
 
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What affect would a brake booster have on baseline fuel setting? With the vacuum hose to the brake booster disconnected and plugged the transmission shift points are much higher. Thinking the booster may have been causing a vacuum leak when I last set the LH 2.2 baseline fuel mixture.
 
Today I vacuum tested the takeoff booster, both for idle vacuum and when pushing the push rod. It passed both tests. I left the master cylinder mounted to the brake booster to make vacuum testing possible. Just connect the check-valve hose with the engine idling.
 
I just recently replaced a booster on a 89 740T. It made a whooshing noise any time yiou used the brakes. Other than that it seemed ok. Even the Volvo specialty shop thought it was ok. The idle on the engine was acceptable as well. but after we changed the booster the engine was much smoother and the brakes were much better boosted. Whooshing sound was gone. Used part was from a 960 so there may be more assist than before. It's really nice now.
 
I just recently looked up the interchange of this brake booster. The same 8 inch dual diaphragm booster fits 740/760/780/940/960. On my 88 760 with ABS the booster was rotated 90 degrees to fit a spacer with 90 degree offsets that fitted a Mercedes style master cylinder that used a longer master cylinder recess in the booster. Installing a Ford Ranger master cylinder required removing the spacer, rotating the booster 90 degrees, as well as changing the length of the push rod.

I also thought of swapping to a Ford Ranger Brake Booster. But the Volvo brake booster stud pattern is about 2.75 inch square and a Ford Ranger up to 1993 had a 3.375 inch square stud pattern. Starting 1994 Ford changed to a stud pattern with one offset stud. I decided to only re-drill for larger stud pattern if I was unable to locate the correct booster.
 
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Managed to get my brake booster swapped this afternoon. Brakes are working again. The higher shift points turned out to be that I managed to pull the downshift cable housing out of it's end fitting while messing with the brake booster vacuum hose the other day. Put the cable back in place and the shift points are back to normal.

The caliper seal boot kit that I got from NAPA has a Raybestos part number 2795. This is for one seal, one dust boot and one bleeder cap. Seal boot kit is manufactured in China. The price at my NAPA was $6.82 plus state tax. I'm trying to hold off until spring to rebuild the 92 960 front calipers (not original from 1992), they are freed up and working properly at this time. I will order a second seal boot kit from the NAPA warehouse in the meantime.
 
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