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142 GT Cluster - Dead Fuel Gauge

oemoilleaks

oemoilleaks

Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Location
SoCAL
Has anyone ever used the guts from a stock cluster to repair a dead fuel or temp gauge on a GT cluster?

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The arc and need are different in the stock gauge but I was wondering if there's a way to get the electronics to swap over.

(it's not the voltage regulator... the temp gauge works)
 
Has anyone ever used the guts from a stock cluster to repair a dead fuel or temp gauge on a GT cluster?

IMG_1135_1139_c.jpg

IMG_2191_670.jpg


The arc and need are different in the stock gauge but I was wondering if there's a way to get the electronics to swap over.

(it's not the voltage regulator... the temp gauge works)
 
I vaguely remember something about the sender being different or something with the rallye cluster in my '70 145. I do remember I used to fill based on mileage, not not on the gauge because the gauge didn't work.
 
GT gauges use stock senders. It's only the Rallye gauges that require special senders.

Contact Roger. I think he was able to modify the stock fuel and temp gauges to repair the GT gauges.
 
The senders aren't the problem. The gauge is dead at this point.

Unfortunately, this is a Roger cluster. I'd send it back to him but only if he would undo the "upgrades" he's done... the LED ring lighting is too bright and honestly pretty annoying.
 
You have to get your fuel sender re-calibrated. It's NOT your gauge. I sent mine to Tri-Starr in upstate NY. Also, if you turn the dial down on the dash, you can adjust the brightness of the lighting.

Congrats on the dash, Roger does a great job!
 
71142volvo said:
You have to get your fuel sender re-calibrated. It's NOT your gauge. I sent mine to Tri-Starr in upstate NY. Also, if you turn the dial down on the dash, you can adjust the brightness of the lighting.

Congrats on the dash, Roger does a great job!
Click to expand...



The fuel sender shouldn't be an issue. I had a voltage regulator go bad and short the gauge. since this is the GT cluster all the sending units are the exact same as the stock cluster...

I thought you only had to change stuff for the RALLYE cluster.
 
Best to eliminate the low hanging fruit first. Check the resistance of the sender before you tear apart the cluster, it should be high resistance when empty and very low resistance when full. 282ohm +/-48 empty and 40ohm+/- 5 full

I attached the pages on this from the 140 greenbook
 

Attachments

  • 140 greenbook fuel gauge_compressed (1).pdf
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