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Squirterizational mod RENTAL KIT for INCREASED PERFORMANCE

Redwood Chair said:
Should I put 3 chuck flats on it with the belt sander so they just break their wrists?

:lol:

I'm not a machinist but I have moved some metal in my time...

:oogle:
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Naw just tell to work up slowly , the big thang is going to be scary when it punches thru. My drill are tapped M12x 1.75 so I have screwed in Ford Lima headbolts as a handle, but best is in a drill press with the head angled over. Or a mill. And 4-6 steps.
 
John V said:
Naw just tell to work up slowly , the big thang is going to be scary when it punches thru. My drill are tapped M12x 1.75 so I have screwed in Ford Lima headbolts as a handle, but best is in a drill press with the head angled over. Or a mill. And 4-6 steps.
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Word to that.

I've drilled a bunch of steel I beams working in construction.

Then they got this drill with a magnetic base and it was cake.
 
Pick them up today, hopefully drill it out in a couple days and get it back by the end of the week. Any recomendations on fluid? Squirt oil on it or run it dry?
 
I squirterized my spare block the other day in kens shop. The new kit works wonders. The new tooling makes everything much more efficient.
 
ryanfay said:
I squirterized my spare block the other day in kens shop. The new kit works wonders. The new tooling makes everything much more efficient.
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All operations are now guided by the fixture to insure accuracy, and eliminate the need for a 1/2" drill.

<a href="http://s255.photobucket.com/user/redwoodchair/media/JVAB%20Squirter%20Kit/SquirterKit22_zps680d2c16.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/JVAB%20Squirter%20Kit/SquirterKit22_zps680d2c16.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo SquirterKit22_zps680d2c16.jpg"/></a>

linuxman51 said:
good to see this (these?) thing back going around again.
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Thanks and yes there are two kits now for the community to use plus the oil return tapping setup as well.
 
Thanks to Ken and JVL for the kit…the entire process took around 45 minutes including cleaning the tools and repackaging the kit for return to San Fran.

 
Redwood Chair said:
Kit's back in the house raring to go!
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Ken, when did the baton pass to you? I used this kit a couple years back...talking to JVAB was a hoot.

The only issue I had was I didn't believe the boring tool got the bottom FLAT where the BMW squirters mounted. I suspect the boring bit was slightly buggered when it arrived. I might take the block to my buddy's machine shop and see if he has a similar cutter that we can clean them up with. The fixturing John rigged worked fine enough, nothing loosey goosey....
 
DET17 said:
Ken, when did the baton pass to you? I used this kit a couple years back...talking to JVAB was a hoot.

The only issue I had was I didn't believe the boring tool got the bottom FLAT where the BMW squirters mounted. I suspect the boring bit was slightly buggered when it arrived. I might take the block to my buddy's machine shop and see if he has a similar cutter that we can clean them up with. The fixturing John rigged worked fine enough, nothing loosey goosey....
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Yes I have taken responsibility for the development, and use of the kit.

~~~~~~~~~~

So it worked but it didn't? :lol:

~~~~~~~~~

No the counterbore step and thread tapping step were freehand with the old kit, and the counterbore required a 1/2" drill that had chuck clearance problems with the main caps.

I don't know what your definition of loosey goosey is but all operations are now guided by the fixture which remains in place during all steps now to insure proper alignment.
 
Redwood Chair said:
No the counterbore step and thread tapping step were freehand with the old kit, and the counterbore required a 1/2" drill that had chuck clearance problems with the main caps.

I don't know what your definition of loosey goosey is but all operations are now guided by the fixture which remains in place during all steps now to insure proper alignment.
Click to expand...

Most likely the old "freehand" setup is what got me. No problem with D&T of the M8 (maybe M6, hell it's been a couple years). I have a 1/2" chuck right angle drive gear reduction drill, the type electrical contractors use to drill wood studs to pull that 12-2 and 14-2 Romex....the drill is pretty bad ass, had plenty of grunt to do the job. I'm sure my C'bores need cleaned up, so I'll either have to call on machinist buddy to save the day, OR use the new improved kit. LMK if it ever ships in the area of the SE States...no squirters needed, already installed.

Need to finish that old junk center thrust small journal B230 block (not worth a crap) that I have, get the stroker AQ151 crank properly fitted, hope the Penta pistons I have proper clearance, and build that shortblock. I think it would give a nice stump puller to put behind someones AW71.
 
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The new kit is piloted for a 7mm hole and will even work on a threaded hole.

You might want to run the tap again, but when Ryan ran the spare block out to a 21/32 counterbore from a 1/2" spot the 8x1m threads were still threading well, but we ran the tap in again just to be sure they were crisp.

The kit ships out and back now, rather than wandering around, so let me know when you need to use it.
 
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