• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

The "Georgia Peach" Project - A 35-Year Wait For a Special 1968 122s Wagon

Greetings to vw, f**king hot enough for you?
I hope these picts are OK with your space here...

Food for thought, perhaps useful:
image_zpsgojikcjl.jpeg


image_zpsiuxvnncg.jpeg


image_zpsowgugpqo.jpeg


image_zpsymotl9om.jpeg


image_zps0asepskx.jpeg


image_zpsyh7xpgny.jpeg


image_zpstpzrp70a.jpeg


image_zpsgviq60nb.jpeg
 
Greetings to vw, f**king hot enough for you?
I hope these picts are OK with your space here...

Yes, it has been quiet hot up here in northern New England this summer, but as you learned when you came down recenty with your fine 220, the restoration shop stays nice and cool w/out air conditioning.

The photos of your air system are fine, thanks for driving this exceptional car down here, and for talking me out for a nice run in it, and for the parts I bought from you!

Until the dealer installed "FridKing" air conditioning system is restored and rebuilt, the 6-65 air conditioner in the "Peach" is working very well: I learned years ago with Volvo 220 station wagons that if it is really hot and vent windows are turned around backward they scoop up plenty of air, but do not blast you in the face; the front windows of course are kept wide open; rolling down the rear windows only about half way or less keeps the air coming in from buffeting and druming inside the car and making the ride unpleasant. In fact doing this makes the ride much more enjoyable than in a two-door with all the windows wide open, and I assume it would also work w/a four-door.

The stainless steel visors above the front windows on this car also help with keeping the incoming wind from being unpleasant and keep the sun from beating down on you. Even though they have been on this car since new I originally planned to take them off, but after finding out how well they work they probably will stay and the search is ongoing to find some for the rear doors.
 
Last edited:


When northNH drove here for a visit w/his 220, he was nice enough to sell me this 122s gauge panel w/ VDO Volvo R-Sport gauges and warning lights he bought from an enthusiast in Germany.

It is going to find a new home in the dashboard in the "Peach" soon, when I have the time to devote to it and also put on a new dash pad at the same time.

WANTED:



In the meantime I am looking for a matching VDO oil pressure gauge as pictured above to place in another location.

Also looking for any other gauges of this exact style or with different faces in the same style that VDO made, or even a reference to what other cars may have used them.

The outside diameter of the smaller gauge bezels is: 2.170-inches or 55mm - The canister on the back of the gauge is: 2.040-inches or 52mm.

The Speedo and Tach bezels are 3.265-inches or 83mm - The canister on the back is 3.135-inches or 80mm.

ALSO WANTED: The correct speedo cable drive gear for a J-Type overdrive suitable for a 4:56 final drive ratio.
 
Last edited:
PM Roger (RP80242GT+T). He's our resident R-Sport gauge rebuilder and might have some individual gauges available.

AFAIK, there were never any J type od's used with 4.56 rear end gears. The closest you're going to get is the speedo gear for 4.30's. Depending on which gears are in your od, you may also need the output shaft gear.

Here's a service bulletin with a chart that shows which speedo gears to use with what trans/rear end ratio.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/images/SB_38.6%20Speedometer%20Gears.pdf
 
hiperfauto; said:
AFAIK, there were never any J type od's used with 4.56 rear end gears. The closest you're going to get is the speedo gear for 4.30's. Depending on which gears are in your od, you may also need the output shaft gear.

Here's a service bulletin with a chart that shows which speedo gears to use with what trans/rear end ratio.

Thanks once again for sharing you knowledge with me to help move this project forward!

I already contacted Roger and unfortunately he did not have an oil pressure gauge he could part with.

Thanks for the info about the speedo gears, at least I have part numbers now of the 4:30 gears that would at least get things closer.

Planning on a rebuild of the trans this winter and also a change of the lower gear ratios to what was used in the 120 and 220 cars instead of what came with the later J-Type OD. I should wait until then to find out what is in it. Do you have any sources for these gears where you could find me a set?
 
I'd have to check, but I'm pretty sure I have the speedo gears.

And since we're trying to be period correct here, Volvo's performance division was called Competition Service back then. I think they changed to R-Sport around the time they moved their headquarters from Torrance to Rockleigh, NJ.

RallyDash1.jpg
 
I'd have to check, but I'm pretty sure I have the speedo gears.

And since we're trying to be period correct here, Volvo's performance division was called Competition Service back then. I think they changed to R-Sport around the time they moved their headquarters from Torrance to Rockleigh, NJ.

Hey thanks yet once again!!!!

I will get ahold of you about the gears after I get the trans and OD apart this winter and maybe for some other things as well.

The photo below gives you a hint of the vintage-like six and seven-inch wide wheels going on the car for now, until it is possible to find a set of useable vintage Halibrand or Minilite magnesium wheels. Reproductions are available of both, but I am going to wait a while before going that route.
 
Last edited:
AFAIK there only is one of those...

I believe for 4.56 you'll be closest to correct with a 21 tooth black gear without needing to change the output shaft gear.
And I think that speedo gear came in J-OD ~'71-'74 1800 and 140 with 4.30 diff.

I've located the oil gauge you seek, but it's going to take coming up with something to trade him for it...cash won't do it.
 
After a little research, a B20 122 w/M41 J type od and 4.30 gears uses a black 20 tooth gear. That leaves 2 more gears to try, a light green 21 tooth gear and a dark green 22 tooth gear, both of which will need a different output shaft gear.
 
That R sport cluster is amazing! I'd love to get my hands on one of those.



Volvo Competition Services (US) apparently never offered a 122s gauge cluster over the counter, but Volvo of Germany did according to what I was able to find out via Bart Coppens and pictured above:

"In May 1964, Car and Driver magazine road-tested a 122S competition car in full race trim. It looks like that this particular car was built by Volvo in Frankfurt. The instrument panel was replaced by a special panel with VDO gauges".

Judging by the padding on the doors it may be an earlier car, or the door trim panel was installed on a then current racing car.

Richard Bull from Australia is sending me a copy of the article and I will post what ever else may be of interest.

Volvo of Belgium also built at least one competition car and it was fitted the Jaeger gauge cluster as seen below.

Jaeger Panel
 
AFAIK there only is one of those...

I believe for 4.56 you'll be closest to correct with a 21 tooth black gear without needing to change the output shaft gear.
And I think that speedo gear came in J-OD ~'71-'74 1800 and 140 with 4.30 diff.

I've located the oil gauge you seek, but it's going to take coming up with something to trade him for it...cash won't do it.

Thanks, For the info and the great news I will be in touch asap.
 


After spending the spring and most of the summer trying to find a set of period Halibrand or Minilite magnesium racing wheels (repro versions of both are being made) I decided to go with a set of reproduction 1969 Plymouth and Chrysler police cars wheels. These will do for a while until being able to find the former. May be they can be passed down to someone else in the future?

I have found that in 1964, Volvo Competition Services fitted 5.5 inch Dodge wheels to they're racing cars in the time before offering widened standard wheels. 5.5-inch Volvo steel wheels are being offered today, but unfortunately to get the "wide" look, the rims are offset a considerable amount and have the look of old-fashioned chrome reversed wheels with a wide flat section of the rim showing on the outside.

The 15-inch Chrysler wheels are offered starting w/a six-inch width which was chosen for the front and seven-inch wide rims for the rear. The fronts have a backspacing of 3.75-inches and the rears 4-inch - both fit on a wagon without the need to roll the fenders and will allow quite a bit of lowering. Sedans might not allow this much backspacing in the rear due to a different spring setup.

The wheels are powered coated black as is the rage today, but will be changed to silver and the hunt is on now to find to find a set of tires.





 
They look and fit great...

"5.5-inch Volvo steel wheels are being offered today, but unfortunately to get the "wide" look, the rims are offset a considerable amount and have the look of old-fashioned chrome reversed wheels with a wide flat section of the rim showing on the outside..."

These are 6" wide professionally made using OEM centers, 205/60 15's, unloaded suspension, and pretty well show what you've described above.
Different look, more hot-roddy, especially with stainless trim ring; yours in black more sinister...

image_zpsikk50o2x.jpeg


image_zpsy6mdmcqr.jpeg


image_zps0r6j6m9z.jpeg


Maybe body color wheels, shiny skinny trim rings, black centers and nuts?

Best,
 
Last edited:
northNH;5447788 Maybe body color wheels said:
Going to go with the silver late 1960s performance look w/out trim rings or hubcaps. After the wheels are on the the car, will experiment with something a little different in Photoshop by coloring the center section the color of Dow #7 as used on Halibrand magnesium wheels or the gold like used on some BBS wheel centers.

Both are what is referred to an analogous color on a color wheel and harmonize w/silver and w/the creme body color and the saddle-colored upholstery and may really good? Will not know until I try it in PS.
 
Last edited:


Back from a test drive in yesterday's rain are the new Michelin Premier performance touring 195/65/15 tires up front that are mounted on the Chrysler 15"x6" wheels w/ventilated slots much like those that Volvo used, and 205/65/15's on the 15"x7" rear rims.

The difference between the previous Michelin 165/SR/15 tires on 4.5" standard Volvo wheels is remarkable. 75% less lean in corners, a much smoother and quieter ride, less steering effort and a phenomenal amount of grip during cornering.

The wheels will be painted w/a period looking silver semi-gloss wheel paint and small polished stainless steel hub covers with emblems be installed in the wheel's center holes soon.

A photo below taken in the spring for a comparison.





Front and rear the wheels and tires fill up the fender openings nicely, and the 3.75 and 4-inch back spacing of the rims locates the wheels close to the hub centers. This keeps the loading on the spindles, ball joints and front and rear wheel bearings no higher than what they were originally engineered for.






After a 6-week trip on a slow boat from Italy is an original adaptor for an Italian Nardi mahogany-rimmed steering wheel with thee tapered and polished aluminum spokes that hopefully will be arriving soon.
 
Last edited:
Looking good! Can't wait to see how the wheels look painted with their hub caps.

This is one of the stainless steel hub covers that came yesterday, when installed the flange will be about .500 further in and under the wheel.

The rims will be painted silver and I am considering painting the center section gold like that used on a BBS wheel as is seen in your avatar photo and the rim silver. It looks great in Photoshop.

 
Last edited:
Back
Top