• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Extending the pedal travel on clutch?

I had to use a spacer on the clutch fork pivot for my Saab 240 mm clutch setup. Easy to do, no issues with it in the 1000's of miles since. That was something like 1/4 of an inch or so, I used a longer bolt with the spacer.
 
blkaplan said:
If you use the correct TOB you do not need to space the pivot ball out.
Click to expand...

Ben-
In my case it is the factory 87-93 Mustang everything- TOB, clutch fork, disc, pressure plate and flywheel. There is just not enough throw to have a well modulated clutch.
As Jack and I discussed, there are too many options of assembly to say what each option needs to publish definitive answers. That said, what recommendation do you have for proper clutch fork position to create the greatest throw? That information would apply across the board regardless of setup, and allow the correct height TOB to be acquired. I know I have seen a sketch somewhere...
Thanks.
 
If I extend the pedals arm, this would also do such a thing, but maybe I'm over complicating things if it's as simple as adding a washer?
Click to expand...

You literally can't do this because at a certain point, the clutch fork will hit the bellhousing, I know this because I shimmed the clutch cable so much that I too had it only just contacting the clutch, but it was hitting the bellhousing window hole thing for the clutch fork to fit through. You will most likely have to shim the pivot ball, shim the TOB itself, or as ben mentioned, get the right TOB.
 
PeaceEngineered said:
Ben-
In my case it is the factory 87-93 Mustang everything- TOB, clutch fork, disc, pressure plate and flywheel. There is just not enough throw to have a well modulated clutch.
As Jack and I discussed, there are too many options of assembly to say what each option needs to publish definitive answers. That said, what recommendation do you have for proper clutch fork position to create the greatest throw? That information would apply across the board regardless of setup, and allow the correct height TOB to be acquired. I know I have seen a sketch somewhere...
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Factory TOB is the wrong TOB for a 240...

I have the info listed on my site.

https://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240/products/240-dual-pattern-ford-t5-tko-adapter-plate

You want the Mcleod adjustable TOB, its much taller and moves the travel range of the fork back.
 
blkaplan said:
Factory TOB is the wrong TOB for a 240...

I have the info listed on my site.

https://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240/products/240-dual-pattern-ford-t5-tko-adapter-plate

You want the Mcleod adjustable TOB, its much taller and moves the travel range of the fork back.
Click to expand...
Thanks for responding Ben.
I don't think I am thread jacking as it is on topic, but in my case I should have added it is a 5.0 GT-40 motor with the Ford bellhousing as well. Would the McLeod TOB 16515 still work in this case? I have not had to do this before with prior 5.0 projects (first for everything though including a swap into a 240). Thanks again.
 
PeaceEngineered said:
Thanks for responding Ben.
I don't think I am thread jacking as it is on topic, but in my case I should have added it is a 5.0 GT-40 motor with the Ford bellhousing as well. Would the McLeod TOB 16515 still work in this case? I have not had to do this before with prior 5.0 projects (first for everything though including a swap into a 240). Thanks again.
Click to expand...

I have the same setup in one of my 240s, and the clutch does start to engage right off the floor with the stock clutch.
I'd modified the pedal, but it works well enough right now.
 
PeaceEngineered said:
Ben-
In my case it is the factory 87-93 Mustang everything- TOB, clutch fork, disc, pressure plate and flywheel. There is just not enough throw to have a well modulated clutch.
As Jack and I discussed, there are too many options of assembly to say what each option needs to publish definitive answers. That said, what recommendation do you have for proper clutch fork position to create the greatest throw? That information would apply across the board regardless of setup, and allow the correct height TOB to be acquired. I know I have seen a sketch somewhere...
Thanks.
Click to expand...

PeaceEngineered said:
Thanks for responding Ben.
I don't think I am thread jacking as it is on topic, but in my case I should have added it is a 5.0 GT-40 motor with the Ford bellhousing as well. Would the McLeod TOB 16515 still work in this case? I have not had to do this before with prior 5.0 projects (first for everything though including a swap into a 240). Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Check your pedal for wear. I had one pedal that was slotted over time and made the clutch engagement too low. I welded it shut and redrilled a fresh hole. Good as new. Steel clutch pedals ftw.
 
blkaplan said:
Check your pedal for wear. I had one pedal that was slotted over time and made the clutch engagement too low. I welded it shut and redrilled a fresh hole. Good as new. Steel clutch pedals ftw.
Click to expand...
Gotcha. Will check it next time I have it up on stands and let all the snow melt evaporate. Ha
Thanks for the tip!
 
Ben. Deeworks indicates on their site that you should be using the stock Volvo TOB though?

To further complicate what my issue MAY have been, my flipping clutch cable snapped this morning. So it may well have been fine adjustment this whole time, but the cable slowly breaking and stretching that has made me feel like I'm having travel issues.

Gonna mess with it this weekend. BUT, I'd like feedback on that TOB option.
 
my flipping clutch cable snapped this morning
Click to expand...

I've had 3 cables snap on me, the first one snapped exactly when I was addressing the same problem as you, deja vu huh. Fortunately I found the problem of the two latter.

Basically you have what seems like two options, maybe three.

a. buy a mcleod TOB. Probably the right way to do all of this.

b. shim the pivot ball. Most will say that it's okay. I haven't had any issues personally and my setup would be jenkier than yours.

c. There is something else fundamentally wrong like you said, with the cable stretch. But if that turns out not to be the issue, you have the info.

Have a look this weekend and tell us how it goes. Conclusions are nice in threads.
 
I used the stock TOB when I used a deeworks adapter, but I also spaced the pivot ball out. You could also use the Mcleod.
 
If you use the deeworks kit you have to use the stock bearing from what i know. I can only speak to the stuff that I sell.
 
blkaplan said:
If you use the deeworks kit you have to use the stock bearing from what i know. I can only speak to the stuff that I sell.
Click to expand...

Looking at the McLeod I don't think this would help. This of course just changes the height of the TOB, but I need to change the travel of the system.

That said, I'm going to put a hold on this discussion BECAUSE.

1. When I last adjusted my cable (this past weekend) I noticed that my rubber bushing was starting to get chewed up at the shoulder. So it's possible that this moved within the mounting hole which would've obviously messed with my travel. To remedy this, I grabbed the Delrin upgrade from STSMachining (hopefully it shows up for me to do this weekend).

2. My cable broke (obv) but it's completely plausible that as each strand of cable was breaking that the cable itself was stretching significantly.

So. I've got a couple of people that have some "OK" looking OEM cables, and I've got my old aftermarket one. I'll probably attempt getting that aftermarket one in place this weekend since it's physically here, and then see what my travel looks like?
 
Go Hydraulic. Easy.
Ford T5
Add the GM bearing retainer. (reset input shaft play)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-BEAR...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Speedway TO bearing kit
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Stock-Clutch-Hydraulic-Throwout-Bearing,1945.html
Volvo hydraulic master.
Lines
Drive

Having dicked around with pivot balls and spacing before in other swaps... Never again. The Speedway kit is super affordable, adjustable, and easy.

This is exactly what I'm doing for the Whiteblock swap. Of course small fabrication details here and there depending on your installation.
 
blkaplan said:
Where in the pedal's travel range does it actually engage the pressure plate fingers?
Click to expand...

As it stands right now (well, before it snapped anyway), as far as I'm able to tell my TOB was BARELY riding the PP fingers. I say that because I wasn't able to feel any play at all in the fork, but if I tightened it, I would see it come forward. If I loosened it, it went back BARELY.
 
It's at the stop on the upper limit. As I said, I'm using the ENTIRE pedal travel.

Not trying to snark. Just had to do the flipping clutch cable with that pile of shet aftermarket POS and anyone that says it's JUST as easy as an OEM is ficking insane. Fight me.
 
I just feel like the issue lies in the actual distance between the TOB and the clutch fingers.

If you've exhausted all of the adjustment and it's still not disengaging, then I don't think pushing the clutch in more is going to help. The clutch pedal isn't designed to have a 2ft long stroke.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top