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Dan's 142... b20, Holset.

damn bondo.
hoodridebondo.jpg



now a question.... wtf is this relay supposed to be for? there was a wire running from it to the emergency brake switch... that wire FRIED real good, taking some of it's neighboring wires with it.
wtfisit.jpg


i really should get in an fix the formerly pristine wiring harness... but the car runs/drives just fine, other than the odd bit where the running lights are always on when the engine is running, now (though not on when the key is simply in the 'on' position... nor when the fuel pump is running).

the next bit i've been thinking..... the car simply isn't low enough. i don't want to lose any more ground clearance, as that part is pretty livable right now... so, what's the reasonable thing to do? sawzall and welder to the rescue. i want to move the front sub frame up ~2", new trans tunnel and cross members.
think front-half channeling/body drop... of sorts.

i think the rear suspension geometry will be cool sitting a few inches lower, once there's room for the driveshaft... although it'd need adjustable upper arms, and the panhard doesn't seem like it'd be in the right place anymore.
 
dhallilama said:
. so, what's the reasonable thing to do? sawzall and welder to the rescue. i want to move the front sub frame up ~2", new trans tunnel and cross members.
think front-half channeling/body drop... of sorts.
Click to expand...

I'd be worried about having a suspension that is completely fuxor'd doing something like that but your welding and cutting skills are far superior to mine. Do you have a Hayne's or Chilton's book for that car? I probably have a spare if you want it. Might help with some of the wiring mysteries.
 
moving the front subframe up would keep the same front suspension and steering geometry it has now, but have the car sit lower over it. the engine/trans would move up the same amount.
the rear... measurements say it'll work ~3" lower than it is at the moment, and still have 3" of downward travel without binding anything... but it's still kinda a guess. ITB cars sit a lot lower than this one... their rear suspension seems to work ok... so adding to the guess above, it sounds good :)
now all i need is time!

don't have any manuals for the car... so far it's been so simple, it's been a breeze to work on. i've heard great things about the volvo green books... but i havent seen one for a '72. how different would a '71 be? a haynes or chiltons would surely augment google and TB, greatly...
might help troubleshoot it's hot starting antics, too.

cold start: turn the key a couple few times to get the fuel going. turn it over for a few seconds, it'll come to life then immediately stall. turn the key again and it's good to go, running beautifully.

i have noticed the fuel pressure will drop to near zero when the car sits off for more than 20 or so minutes. don't know if it's supposed to, or not.

hot start: sometimes it'll start up after turning over a couple times... sometimes no. it'll take a minute or two of kinda starting, feeling like it's flooded... and having a faint bit of white smoke along with it... making me really feel like it's flooded... then sputtering to life, and running fine after a few quick stabs at the throttle, unloading it.

i jumped in my 740, which i haven't been driving... was going to just make a u-turn and park it on the other side of the road... suddenly being in something with power steering, power brakes and a "normal" sized steering wheel, i felt way out of place... and felt like i was going to over-turn and plow into something :)
i didn't... but 10 minutes later my neighbor plowed into a friend's S70 while he was turning around.
 
into v-dubs hugh cool its what i do! vw's n volvo's. an ya the rear of your 142 will be fine my buddy also vw guy had his right hand drive 144 on the ground! had too clearance under the rear seat for travel. the pumpkin was hitting it! also if you wanted not too do all that wk on the cross member slam the crap out of it and the narrow the bottem a arm too adjust camber! id just make new ones tublar adjustable.might be alot easier than raising the cross member!
 
don't want to mess with the suspension geometry in the front... the lower control arms are parallel to the road surface, there's very little bump steer, travel feels perfect, good feedback for a non-rack car, roll center feels comfortable, instant roll center feels all sorts of right... just want the center of gravity lower and the car to be closer to the ground. come to think of it, drop spindles would do it...
but the cross members sitting higher would give me more ground clearance.

VWs: i've had 3 bugs (a '59 and two '63s), a fastback, a squareback, 3 ghias, and a thing. i so want a notchback and/or an early double cab. wonder what kinda weight a double cab could haul around???

the 142 started running like ass at low RPMs, today. misses badly under 1200rpm, won't idle. pulls like a raped goat from 2k 'till 5k, though. 5 minutes later it'll idle perfectly smooth. another 5 minutes later, it'll stumble all over itself and stall under 2k rpm.

the #1 cylinder's injector plug is loose.
the timing feels off.
something is making it miss like mad.
did another compression test... all golden. don't think it's got a dropped lifter.

that means troubleshooting the injection and timing. bah. not what i consider fun.

time for some maintenance... just kinda strapped for time at the moment, so it may sit for a few days :(
 
dhallilama said:
the 142 started running like ass at low RPMs, today. misses badly under 1200rpm, won't idle. pulls like a raped goat from 2k 'till 5k, though. 5 minutes later it'll idle perfectly smooth. another 5 minutes later, it'll stumble all over itself and stall under 2k rpm.
Click to expand...

check and make sure the condensor didn't come loose again. if it's loose it doesn't ground out against the alternator properly, or at least thats what the problem was when it did this to me.
 
condenser was cool... but found a few other problems:
  • injector ground at the manifold was super corroded.
  • #1 cylinder injector plug had a bad contact.
  • the TPS doesn't work for ****. haven't checked to see if it's the TPS or the wiring... but the TPS is looking pretty worn.
  • carbon trails on the cap and rotor.
  • Auxiliary air valve is always open.

while bored at work today, i compiled this from various d-jet sources... namely v-classics, swedish bricks, rennlist (porsche 914). some d-jet manual
 and some stuff from here on TB

Pressure Sensor(MAP):
Suction Test diaphragm
ECU harness pin 7 to 15 = 90 ohms.
ECU harness pin 8 to 10 = 350 ohms.

Injectors:
Remove/clean injectors, inspect/replace injector seals
inspect/repair injector plugs
Individually check ECU harness pins 3, 4, 5 and 6 to ground.
Resistance should be less than 25 ohms, but not zero.

FI Trigger Points:
Inspect (in dist.)
ECU harness pin 12 to 21, then pin 12 to 22 = near 0 ohms on one set,
open on the other. Rotate engine 360 degrees and test again. Readings
should be opposite.

Breaker Points: Inspect, adjust

Throttle Switch:
Clean, Dielectric Grease
Ignition on, not running, check for 20 clicks while opening the throttle. If no clicks are heard, check wiring continuity between Throttle Switch connector and ECU
harness pins 9, 14, 17 and 20 (one connector wire to each harness pin
only).
If there is bucking, unplug then drive to test.

Temp Sensor #2 (coolant temp, right side of head near thermostat):
ECU harness pin 23 to ground
Cold motor = roughly 2000 ohms.
Warm motor = well under 1000 ohms.

Temp Sensor #1 (intake air temp):
ECU harness pin 1 to 13. At air temp of 85F ~ 200 ohms; resistance
varies inversely with temperature.

Fuel Pressure: 30psi

Cold Start Injector:
Check for leaks
Check for operation when cold
Thermo Time Switch

Aux Air Valve:
Suction test- when cold only

Vacuum Leaks: Inspect

Throttle Plate: Clean

Spark Plugs:
NGK 6422 BP7HS (or BPR7HS if ya want resistor)

Idle Screw:
Back out fully. Turn in 1/4 until car starts and idles.

Timing:
Remove vacuum advance because it serves no good purpose other than emissions at idle.
12-15 BTDC at idle

by far not the be-all-to-end-all d-jet rundown list...
only had about a half hour of free time when i got home... knocked through about half the list. car started up and idled perfectly... took it for a 1 mile drive... ran splendid, despite the TPS (stab the gas and it stumbles until catching up)... last block before home and it started acting up all over again and i couldn't keep it idling. i'd not think that the TPS would account for that... but i could be wrong. should have unpluged it and had a go. also should have read the plugs... but i was tired and hungry.

so far d-jet is pretty interesting. for a 36+ year old system, it's quite sophisticated. the air pressure sensor alone trips me out.
that's not to say that i'm not planning on ditching it all in favor of MS. D-Jet to MS looks like a pretty good swap :)

(guess this is becoming less "showroom" more "dan mumbling on about stuff")
 
^ good to know, thanks! (pretty cool getting a car from someone youre in contact with)

btw... did you come by, today? i was back in the garage, kept hearing someone hit the horn. thought it was the crazy ass neighbor until the contractor dude that was hanging off the scaffolding said "eh man ders a red bovo i think he want." no clue what he meant, but it looked like your car driving off...
 
i can't believe i have posted here yet, i love this car man. You rock!
 
dhallilama said:
^ good to know, thanks! (pretty cool getting a car from someone youre in contact with)

btw... did you come by, today? i was back in the garage, kept hearing someone hit the horn. thought it was the crazy ass neighbor until the contractor dude that was hanging off the scaffolding said "eh man ders a red bovo i think he want." no clue what he meant, but it looked like your car driving off...
Click to expand...

:rofl: no not yet. i was going to assemble a big load of vintage volvo parts this weekend and drop it by shortly thereafter, tho.

you can pay whatever you feel like for it when you feel like it :lol:
 
turboluv said:
:rofl: no not yet. i was going to assemble a big load of vintage volvo parts this weekend and drop it by shortly thereafter, tho.

you can pay whatever you feel like for it when you feel like it :lol:
Click to expand...


awesome!
you want partial payment in beer??? :)



anyone got a d-jet throttle switch laying around?
 
Last edited:
sorry ethan. next time :-P you also never came and got the ugly beast.

dan- hell yeah! beer is as good as the dollar to me. it also can't depreciate! post a pic of this throttle switch, i'm sure i have another.

i also have a '72 140 green manual. you can't keep it, but you can borrow it. the damn thing's chock full of good info, way better than the newer ones i got for my 260 or 740.
 
throttle switch:

dontgetwet.jpg


usually has a black plastic cover... a cover that happens to be just the right size to fall through the hole in the floorboard, because it was sitting on the seat rather than put back onto the switch :)
 
oooooooooh, that. so it's not a throttle position sensor then?

yeah that's the only thing i don't have a spare for. sorry.
 
turboluv said:
oooooooooh, that. so it's not a throttle position sensor then?

yeah that's the only thing i don't have a spare for. sorry.
Click to expand...

yeah, it's a throttle position sensor... the "throttle switch"... on the throttle shaft.


b4_ford said:
Yeah but I gave good head.
Click to expand...

luckily, i have beer and monies to pay with :omg:



brought it for a quick drive tonight.... the thing runs brilliant when it's cold, with the TPS disconnected. once warm, there's no getting a solid idle from it. TPS is indeed fubar. the thing is so dead simple, i'm surprised.

oh, how i think about going MS...
but then again, i think about all sorts of wacky stuff like going at the car with a plasma and sawzall... yet i never really have any free time in which to do anything.
 
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