LSX swap 240

I am reading a lot about the swap, I went the 5.3 route stock stroke is the same as an ls1 just needs a bore to make it same displacement. I am wondering other than the mounts what is the biggest challenge of the swap?? Also is anyone anywhere near Cincinnati Ohio? I have access to lots of resoureses just need a little more guildance, if there is anyone out there that would not mind communicating over emails and would like to see a nice project car come together I would be truly grateful and will reciprocate anyway possible most guys never ask how they can help in return just always more questions haha!!! The car is a 1984 240 2 door motor and trans is gone wiring was switched to lh2.2 and now is stripped down, just looking for a kinda list of some stock wiring in the car that needs separated and what will need to be matted to the 5.3 swap. I really want to run the easiest standalone system plug and play if possible,aftermarket gauges for ease of use, wondering if the painless harness and stock ecu would get the car running right? Also if anyone knows of a crossmember with motor mounts like the one I saw on here I would pay and shipping( obviously) I looked for this car for two and a half years before I found a rust free 2 door in the Cincinnati and six or so hours away and it makes me very sad to have this thing in the garage!!! Also if anyone wants to loan there books one swap( willpaypal ) I need all the help I can get but this car will never leave my possions this car will always be my first love!!!! Thank you guys very much look forward to the help I will get some pics up ASAP also email is buildbruce@gmail.com

Here's a good source of info on the engine wire harness: http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

Here's great source of info on LS swaps in general. There are build threads of LS swaps in everything from Geo Trackers to 911s to muscle cars, Fox bodies etc.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids-28/

Good luck with the swap!

240 wiring

Thanks for that I needed the underhood distribution block, also I really need to dialog more than search I am very busy with my detaiil shop in cincinnati and I want to spend all my extra time working on her!! To completely understate this,I am starting a motor on jack stands and powering the chassis block to get cabin lights and headlight,taillights, powerwindows. I am wondering about the conector at the firewall I plan on using aftermarket gauges so I will not need warning lights or dash light and I don't have heat or air so no need for defrost and such if I put air back I will use a hotrod kit or hidden air not even going to try to put the stock Volvo stuff back haha I am thinking about a painless harness and stock ecu to get it running,55superbeetle stuff is out of most peoples league and most need to face that!!! (If he reads this please pm me if there is an amount of money that could be pay pal to you for just the cut pieces to put that together thank you if you can)he next question is trans what auto is lightest and cheapest and the car is a stick that is my dream but t56 can be pricey motor was $500 complete 82,000 miles heard it run in the truck. As I stated in the other post I will NEVER sell this car so many other power train combos to come in the future so getting it runnNing and to the track is the goal of the hour as also all thoughts are respected and I am grateful to all god bless!!!!!!

There are several online companies that will sell you a plug and play harness in the 550 dollar range. The painless stuff is way overpriced. For the trans a turbo 350 is the cheapest option but retaining the 4l60e that came mated to the 5.3 will make a nicer car. If you plan on making big power then a turbo 400 or the 4l80e is a better choice. Everything I made for my swap can be made with a angle grinder, drill and mig welder. Investing in basic fab tools now will make everything easier and cheaper in the long run.

LSX

Thanks for the heads up on the trans I was afraid that the truck trans would be to heavy and maybe too tall of gears, I do want to turbo this set up in the future so maybe a shift kitted 700r4 also what do you guys know about the 2004r heard light and strong little harder to find? I access to a great wielder all the tube stock I would ever need just worried and rear end angles and motor really being square in there??? What is the best first step here get the stock crossmember off and set the motor and trans on jack stands and check hood clearance and firewall clearance?? Thanks also what was your determining factor for finish ride height on th crossmember. ?? Thanks again guys!! And if there are guys on here that are not working and could use money working on the swap I can pay!!! I have one friend from wyotech coming in to town in a couple weeks and I really want to get a couple good workers to help me bang this out in a week or so. Let me know guys!!!

1. I'd recommend you buy the Holley LS swap pan or the Mast swap pan, makes fitment with the stock front crossmember easier and engine will sit lower.

2. A 200R has better gear ratios than the 700R, the first to second gear drop is brutal on the 700R. The 200R will require as much of a build as a good 700R would.

3.Get on the hybrid forum at LS1tech.com tons of info there.

I'm in a holding pattern on my build right now. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=241493

What are the main dimensional differences between the MAST pan and other ls pans? (other than it's $450 cost! (Yikes!)

IIRC the "best pan" (well... I don't know if it's the best pan, but it sure looks like the best pan) for an LS swap is the truck pan... deep, but slimmer to fit more or less behind the crossmember... way slimmer than the f-body LS oil pan, which is also why no one uses the f-body pan for the volvo 240 ls swap.

But yet when I look at the gents who've done the ls swap, and I've only seen two of them (in 240's), they end up REALLY modifying the crossmember. I've looked at the pics... something about steering rack interference... with the oil pan? Without having an LS block in front of me, it's tough to do any measurements. I'd like to hear more from the guys who've actually done it. Would a different pan have made any difference in crossmember modification?

personally I'm a th400 guy, but I put brutal amount's of chevy power to them. For your combo (if using a tranny that needs building) I reccomend the 200 tranny. Lowest rotating mass, and if built equally performs better in my opinion (less power loss) than 700R4. There are a few 10sec. street cars around here with the 200 tranny. By the way you couldn't pick a more perfect motor for a volvo than the chevy LS. There is a reason it is swapped into EVERYTHING!!! ELSE.

I have my LS sitting in my 242 and the truck pan sucks for fitment. The contour where it swoops down keeps it sitting high enough to make the truck intake hit the hood even with a notch in the backside of the crossmember and even if you notched the crossmember top so it would sit down further the sump will hang 3" plus under the crossmember. I think the F body pan would fit better, take less hacking, and give you enough ground clearance without shelling out the money for the Mast or Holley(which I understand they bought rights to). I'm going to give the F body one a shot before I shell out the money myself.

Wraith said:

I have my LS sitting in my 242 and the truck pan sucks for fitment. The contour where it swoops down keeps it sitting high enough to make the truck intake hit the hood even with a notch in the backside of the crossmember and even if you notched the crossmember top so it would sit down further the sump will hang 3" plus under the crossmember. I think the F body pan would fit better, take less hacking, and give you enough ground clearance without shelling out the money for the Mast or Holley(which I understand they bought rights to). I'm going to give the F body one a shot before I shell out the money myself.

Click to expand...

Why not swap that for a shorter car version?

Wraith said:

I have my LS sitting in my 242 and the truck pan sucks for fitment. The contour where it swoops down keeps it sitting high enough to make the truck intake hit the hood even with a notch in the backside of the crossmember and even if you notched the crossmember top so it would sit down further the sump will hang 3" plus under the crossmember. I think the F body pan would fit better, take less hacking, and give you enough ground clearance without shelling out the money for the Mast or Holley(which I understand they bought rights to). I'm going to give the F body one a shot before I shell out the money myself.

Click to expand...

I hear ya. You're the one with the LS in the car, and mine is still on the internet somewhere.

My question is, after looking at pics of the other two ls swaps I've seen, the sump of the f-body oil pan will be right in the middle of the crossmember and the engine sit up really high whereas the truck pan would sit the engine lower, and you would have to hack the crossmember less. Dunno really.... that's just how it looks in the pics.

Also, IIRC, the truck intake is quite tall. How much shorter is the ls style intake?

Although you could cut a hole in the hood like the Parish8 guys on ls1tech with their now famous Fairmont.

These are the pics I'm referring to... actually these are the ONLY two lsx-240 swaps I've seen pictures of.

In the bottom pic, it looks like (if you can imagine the stock, unmodified x-member in place), the sweeping-back portion of the pan does look like it will hit the original crossmember. The truck pan is shown in the 2nd pic, F-body pan in the top pic.

Also, in both pictures, the steering rack has been lowered slightly... at least that's the way it appears to be.

I guess what I'm saying is I'm not comfortable with making an entirely new crossmember to deal with this swap as it appears these gentlemen have done.

Does it have to be done? Can you just cut, hack and box in the factory x-member or is the new crossmember a reality?

http://www.warrensweb.com/volvo/crossmember.htm


and

http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g43/55superbeetle/

Mueller said:

Why not swap that for a shorter car version?

Click to expand...

I may end up doing that but thats another $200 for the intake then add in fuel rails, injectors, water pump, and idler pulley relocation, that throws the budget into turmoil. I think the truck intake will work with the right pan. Right now my main concern is getting the driveline amgles right and making sure the pan doesn't scrape on ants.

740atl said:

I hear ya. You're the one with the LS in the car, and mine is still on the internet somewhere.

My question is, after looking at pics of the other two ls swaps I've seen, the sump of the f-body oil pan will be right in the middle of the crossmember and the engine sit up really high whereas the truck pan would sit the engine lower, and you would have to hack the crossmember less. Dunno really.... that's just how it looks in the pics.

Also, IIRC, the truck intake is quite tall. How much shorter is the ls style intake?

Although you could cut a hole in the hood like the Parish8 guys on ls1tech with their now famous Fairmont.

Click to expand...

You would still need to notch the crossmember but it wouldn't be as severe with the F body pan, at least that is my train of thought at the momen. If you look at 55superbeetle's swap he has a monster notch in the crossmember and still had to raise the sump on the pan. I'll snap some pics of how mine is setting and post them up later, you can see what I'm talking about.


Pics of truck setup and a conversion Camaro setup from Speartech.

Truck


Converted to LS1 inatake with truck alternator mount

From LS1tech.com http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/817787-lsx-oil-pans.html

Truck pan dimensions
2002-2006 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, Truck/Escalade
Truck "C/K"
Capacity: 6.5 qts
Oil pan: 12579273
Oil pump pickup: 12563961
Windage tray: 12558268 (same as CTS-V) updated to PN: 12611129
Dipstick tube: 12563918
Dipstick: 12558684
O-ring for Oil pump pickup: 12563963



F-Body
Camaro / Firebird
Capacity: 5.5 qts
Oil pan , List Price $266.39: 12628771
Oil pump pickup: 12558251
Windage tray: 12558253
Dipstick tube: 12551577
Dipstick: 12551581
O-ring for Oil pump pickup: 12557752 (Same as Corvette LS1/LS6)



Holley/Mast

The Holley/Mast pan looks like it doesn't sweep down and back like the truck pan does. I wonder what would cost more tho... dropping $450 on a pan, or modifying the truck pan to fit better.

At this moment I am 90% sure it can be done with one of the available pans without rebuilding the front crossmember.

That's pretty cool. I anxiously await your results. Get to it!

Sweet!! Come check out my site, www.v8volvos.com, and find & Like us on facebook (www.facebook.com/v8volvos).


As far as oilpans go, the truck pans are easiest to fit, and cheapest to buy & modify if you have the ability. They're fairly short in the front, but they do taper down towards the sump. Here's how we modified my truck pan:





$65 shipped plus fab work. This was the first fitment, which is too short (and I've since broken it from bottoming out with dead suspension - whole other story). Next revision is to shorten and 'wing-out' the sump to retain as much capacity as possible. If you can make the pan work and get the motor low enough, there is PLENTY of power to be made with the truck intake (and it's already proven to flow better than the LS1 intake).

That's good stuff!

Is this going in a 240 or 740?

EDIT... I looked at your website... lucky dog. 740 people have all the clearance in the world!