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LH2.4 swap, Speedometer

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lh24howto.jpg


There are a few critical ones that need to be hooked up or it won't run. I used the 89 240 NA lh2.4 harness in my 89 740 with a 93 940 dash harness and fuse panel. I tapped the wire that runs to the starter solenoid for that wire that needs to go to that, done. I ran the one yellow red wire to the fuse panel and hooked them to switched power. It runs the oxygen sensor. The other bigger red/yellow wires runs to the fuel pump to run the pump. The blue power while cranking goes to the ignition switch and you might have to swap that out on your older 240, not sure, toomany turbos might know that. The speed signal wire that goes to the speedo is not critical to run, but is recomended to make the car idle correctly. If not hooked up it might idle high sometimes I've heard. Mine idled fine when I didn't have it hooked up. What I noticed, on my wideband, is the Puter wouldn't cut fuel at decel like it would when it was hooked up. Under the hood you have the main power to the harness it has a fuse at the end that connects to the power connector there by the battery and it's always hot... Otherwise your ECU will forget all it's learned.... The grounds on the intake at the bolts that hold the fuel rail in are critical. Once you get it all hooked up you can turn the key on and put the test port thing in number two and hold the button for a second and it should flash back three single flashes meaning all good. Basically check the codes first thing under the hood there. Check port 6 also. Two and six are the ECU and the EZK. If you are making your car a turbo car and you are using the NA 240 harness you have to cut the wire that runs to the TPS that is the WOT wire as turbo ECU's don't use that and if you leave it hooked up it will cause your injectors to fire at 100 percent with certain ECU's when you floor it. Also if using turbo low impedance injectors you have to add the resistor pack. Also when you turn the key on the fuel pump relay should click on and the pump should run for a few seconds if it's hooked up right. 2.2 doesn't do that.
 
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Sbabbs, I was talking about using the LH 2.2 / 2.0 Throttle body and not the 2.4 TB. so you get to use the black idle air adjust/CO Screw. Makes it easier to dial in the idle.
 
Ok. I pinned out our 89 240 harness tonight fir the kjet to 2.4 swap.

Big grey plug under hood at firewall. 4 wires. Looks like the 2.4 harness plugged right in. The remaining wires for kjet go unused. The 4 wires on the 2.4 harness were:

Red: Alternator stimulator wire
Yellow: Coolant temp for guage
Black: Oil pressure warning light wire
Yellow/Blue: Starter


The white 9 plug harness-Now I'm still working on the specifics, but I used the Bentley/Volvo diagram and pinned it out with multimeter too:

Yel/Red: Power Relay. Pin 87/2
Grey/Red: ecu pin 15. A/C Delay Relay
Red/Blk: ecu pin 35. Instrument connection
Purple: ecu pin 14. Instrument (AW trans)
Blue: ecu pin 34. Instrument
Green: ecu pin 26
Yel/Blue: Crank service socket
Yel/Red: into harness. Heated O2.
Pink x2: ecu pin 22. Inst. connection
icu pin 43. Inst connection

That's where we are at. I still need to read more, but now I know what these wires do, I wanna hook em up right!
 
I know it's vague with those multiple "instrument connection" wires, but that's all the book said.

I'm gonna update the post later once I learn more.

Please elaborate if you know exactly where and how to hookup these last 9 wires.
 
Yah, ZVOLV it looks like you are doing a good job. My project is on hold for a few weeks due to school sucking so hard. I should get back to it in the next few weeks. When I do I am going to use the information I have to try and hook stuff up and see what where to go from there.

Thanks
 
Spent some more time on it today.

There are really only 9 wires that need to be spliced in from what I can tell so far. Its this 9 wire plug that goes underneath the dashboard and over to the computers:

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The wires on ours was identical to the one in this image with the exception of the location of two of the wires. We had a Red/Black in the top right for the speedo wire and a Blue wire in the very middle for the wire to the igntion switch.

On ours, these 9 wires are as follows:

Yel/Red: Power Relay. Pin 87/2 (Fuel Pump)
Grey/Red: ecu pin 15. A/C Delay Relay
Red/Blk: ecu pin 35. 12v Switched
Purple: ecu pin 14. Instrument (Shift Indicator)
Blue: ecu pin 34. Speedo wire. Connect to cruise ouptut (dual male connector on back of cluster)Green: ecu pin 26 (A/C dryer pressure switch)
Yel/Blue: ("Starter" service socket) Not used
Yel/Red: into harness. (Heated O2.)
Pink x2: ecu pin 22. Inst. connection (Check engine light)
icu pin 43. Inst connection (Check engine light)


This plug went directly into the existing 1984 240 Turbo chassis harness. The 4 wires on the 2.4 harness correlated exactly with the wire colors on the chassis harness, so all that was needed was to plug it in. Like mentioned above, they serve these functions:

Red: Alternator stimulator wire
Yellow: Coolant temp for guage
Black: Oil pressure warning light wire
Yellow/Blue: Starter

harness05.jpg
 
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haha, i am just starting to run the wires tomorrow. Only thing I have left to do until the car is done. I put it off until now.
 
I am also in the middle of doing the swap from lh 2.2 to 2.4 in my 88 mod 740.

I have one question, can i use the existing coolant temp sensor from lh 2.2 on the 2.4 ecu\ezk?
 
2.4 temp sensor is different than 2.2.

We hooked up the wires last night. Only 4 wires used so far and we have spark and fuel pressure.

On our 84 240T we just hooked up:

Thicker Red/Yellow: We put male spade and plugged into old fuel pump relay plug

Thinner Red/Yellow: We put to fuse 5. Fused 12v Pwr for heated O2.

Red/Blk: Switched ign power off fuse 12.

We did not follow the previous diagram of blu/yel for starter or solid blue as ign power. Blue yellow on this dash pigtail appears to be for starter test and blue is speedo signal.

Thats it so far. Getting custom fuel lines and finishing small stuff now.
 
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