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Old 04-14-2018, 11:11 AM   #1
durk80
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Default Correct Ignition coil for a 91 240?

Hi all, When I bought the car, I noticed a pretty blue bosch ignition coil located on the driver's side strut tower. I didn't think anything of it at the time, but now after I have been chasing down a drive-ability issue--(hard cold starts & occasional exhaust backfires) I am beginning to think the P.O slapped on the wrong one. After putting the part number in IPD and having it say that the coil did not fit my application, I am presuming I need to purchase the correct coil. The PN is 9220081083 which is currently on the car.

Do I need to buy a new coil, or is this some kind of upgrade?

Thanks in advance!






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Old 04-14-2018, 02:54 PM   #2
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AFAIK, that's the wrong coil. It's my understanding that the Bosch blue coils had a built in resistor.
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Old 04-14-2018, 04:10 PM   #3
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Thanks billkaz,I appreciate your response and knowledge! Looks like I will be ordering the correct part then.

Have a great weekend!
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Old 04-14-2018, 04:35 PM   #4
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The EFI/Mopar/EZK electronic ignition cars have a ballast resistor on the top of the coil and a fatter shorter coil for lack of a better description than the old bosch breaker-less ignition 4cylinder cars. "Blue" coils cover a variety of models so it's hard to say on those exactly.

I have no clue why you'd bother to buy a new one really, they basically never ever go bad/give plenty good enough spark to work within the confines of the stock spark plug gap spec and reasonable cap & rotor service life while returning decent performance and economy and last seemingly indefinitely.
If you need more spark, likely your car is poorly setup/tuned and/or if upgrading skip distributor based spark systems entirely IMO. I'm sure someone here has a used coil or one can be sourced easily/cheaply enough without wasteful blind new part consumption/oil part waste/landfilling with very very little risk/thought/inconvenience with a picture and a part #.

Usually someone will replace them parts-cannnoning trying to diagnose something by replacing the coil which is basically never the source of non-running/spark issue malaise on these. I always get a chuckle walking past cars in the junkyard with a brand new shiny coil on them since I've replaced exactly 0 coils that went bad on their own as "normal wear and tear" /without some severe disturbance/hackery that's usually blatantly obviously apparent on ~2000 RWD cars in the last decade +.

The crank angle sensor/ignition power stage and/or chinesium/similarly terrible aftermarket Cap & Rotor or a corroded fuse box or wiring connections/beat up wiring harness on the other hand...

The car should take this one/this Bosch # coil and ballast resistor assembly (there may be a newer interchange part # IDK), but don't take my word for it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-240-2...1ak2Vx&vxp=mtr
Though used and greazy/dirty is probably a-ok 99.99% of the time in my experience for function if you don't need a shiny NOS one for 100-point numbers-matching 'restoration' of a worthless/born ugly/obscure/lowly Volvo.

Others with similar saturation times/capacities and similar ballast resistor regulated voltage would probably work "fine"/not cause any issues whatever too...YMMV...

Can't you bug Wren or one of the boys who's probably tripping over the correct one?
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Old 04-14-2018, 09:35 PM   #5
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If it's the same as a '90 3.1 car, I have one you can buy.
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Old 04-14-2018, 09:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
The EFI/Mopar/EZK electronic ignition cars have a ballast resistor on the top of the coil and a fatter shorter coil for lack of a better description than the old bosch breaker-less ignition 4cylinder cars. "Blue" coils cover a variety of models so it's hard to say on those exactly.

I have no clue why you'd bother to buy a new one really, they basically never ever go bad/give plenty good enough spark to work within the confines of the stock spark plug gap spec and reasonable cap & rotor service life while returning decent performance and economy and last seemingly indefinitely.
If you need more spark, likely your car is poorly setup/tuned and/or if upgrading skip distributor based spark systems entirely IMO. I'm sure someone here has a used coil or one can be sourced easily/cheaply enough without wasteful blind new part consumption/oil part waste/landfilling with very very little risk/thought/inconvenience with a picture and a part #.

Usually someone will replace them parts-cannnoning trying to diagnose something by replacing the coil which is basically never the source of non-running/spark issue malaise on these. I always get a chuckle walking past cars in the junkyard with a brand new shiny coil on them since I've replaced exactly 0 coils that went bad on their own as "normal wear and tear" /without some severe disturbance/hackery that's usually blatantly obviously apparent on ~2000 RWD cars in the last decade +.

The crank angle sensor/ignition power stage and/or chinesium/similarly terrible aftermarket Cap & Rotor or a corroded fuse box or wiring connections/beat up wiring harness on the other hand...

The car should take this one/this Bosch # coil and ballast resistor assembly (there may be a newer interchange part # IDK), but don't take my word for it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-240-2...1ak2Vx&vxp=mtr
Though used and greazy/dirty is probably a-ok 99.99% of the time in my experience for function if you don't need a shiny NOS one for 100-point numbers-matching 'restoration' of a worthless/born ugly/obscure/lowly Volvo.

Others with similar saturation times/capacities and similar ballast resistor regulated voltage would probably work "fine"/not cause any issues whatever too...YMMV...
Thanks for the response Kjets On a Plane, I didn't buy a new ignition coil, and will get a proper used one somewhere as my car will never be a showroom model. Yet, I can see why people do buy new: $43.00 used with shipping vs. $57.00 New with free shipping.

After pouring over this article: http://www.dtec.net.au/Ignition%20Co...alibration.htm I realized that there are too many unknowns for me not get a correct coil, especially since the applications listed here https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-92200...-/282517309462are for Volkswagen, BMW, and MG- all from the 1970's. Once I do get the correct one, I will let everyone know if there was a change or not in humid/ cold starts.
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Old 04-15-2018, 01:05 PM   #7
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That looks like the blue coil for aircooled VWs with old-style points & distributor ignition. IIRC, it had a build in resistor instead of using an external ballast resistor. It would probably produce a weak spark when used with modern computerized ignition.

KJets - I think what you're referring to as a ballast resistor on the top of the coil is simply a piece of black snap-on plastic with a part # on it so Bosch could easily use the same coil with different part #s.
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Old 04-15-2018, 02:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxJenoxX View Post
If it's the same as a '90 3.1 car, I have one you can buy.
Should be the same look on the bottom of the coil can it’s stamped into it...

Bosch is usually good about numbers...
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Old 04-15-2018, 02:36 PM   #9
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They are the same coil. 240 with LH 2.4 vs. 240 with LH 3.1.
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Old 04-29-2018, 02:34 PM   #10
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Geesh. This is frustrating. I replaced it with a used coil, which I don't believe that was the problem. The car still backfires on deceleration.

Would a ratty throttle cable be causing it to stick? It does have a few cracks in it and has some slack.

I remember this problem coming up after I changed the in-tank fuel pump that was absolutely dead. The car ran better when the in-tank pump wasn't working, yet with the new one, I can hear it buzzing, which should be doing its job.
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Old 04-29-2018, 04:02 PM   #11
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Is the throttle switch (TPS) set correctly? Should hear a click just as the throttle opens, and just as it closes.
If not, the ecu will not cut fuel on development and make all sorts of great sounding pops and burbles.
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Old 04-29-2018, 04:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Is the throttle switch (TPS) set correctly? Should hear a click just as the throttle opens, and just as it closes.
If not, the ecu will not cut fuel on development and make all sorts of great sounding pops and burbles.
Thanks for the response Culberro! I have the Bosch 3.1 with the non-micro switch TPS that I just replaced. I'm not sure if I can set it since there isn't any adjustment (that I can see anyway). Worth a check though!
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Old 04-29-2018, 08:36 PM   #13
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The correct coil should help with cold starts. For the backfire on decel, check the TPS as culberro mentioned. Any diag codes after driving it? Maybe a leaky injector is causing the backfire?
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Old 04-30-2018, 11:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
The correct coil should help with cold starts. For the backfire on decel, check the TPS as culberro mentioned. Any diag codes after driving it? Maybe a leaky injector is causing the backfire?

Thanks, Bobxyz, there are no diagnostic codes popping up, and I just put in refurbished injectors and seals. The middle muffler does have a few holes in it though. Maybe that's introducing an air leak.
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durk80 View Post
The middle muffler does have a few holes in it though. Maybe that's introducing an air leak.
An exhaust leak will absolutely pop on decel in the middle of the exhaust like that. Has to do with sucking in cool air that mixes with the hot air.
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