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MAF Sensors

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Electronics do fail, but with the exception of electrolytic capacitors and vacuum tubes (including CRTs) they don't get "tired", and age is not a good indication of reliability. I have lots of vintage electronics all the way from 1930s radios to 80s computers that I keep in working order. Yes some components drift, especially the old carbon composition resistors but modern types are very stable and properly designed circuits are very resistant to drift, a modern-ish TV can last decades without needing anything adjusted. I've repaired a LOT of gear and cracked solder joints and bad electrolytic caps make up easily 90% of failures, though it's not uncommon for those to cascade and cause further damage. Failure analysis is a complex topic but most failures come down to a few root causes. Cracked connections due to thermal cycles, cracked connections due to mechanical flex/vibrations, moisture ingress and external abuse (short circuits, over-voltage, etc). In solid state components there is a phenomenon called electromigration that is about the only way semiconductors "wear out" with use but it is really only an issue with high speed, high complexity devices like CPUs used in computers. Many programmable memory devices will deteriorate over time and gradually lose the programming they contain but an AMM has none of those.

I suspect that the primary failure mode of Bosch AMM's is either moisture ingress in the ceramic hybrid circuits which have also been a problem in some of the ECUs or cracked connections from the hybrid to the external parts. Given my observations with various aftermarket parts I personally would trust a 30 year old genuine AMM with half a million miles on it that has not been abused over some made in China brand new aftermarket AMM of questionable build quality that very likely will not perform as well as the original even if it does last. "New" does not give me the peace of mind it used to, I've been burned too many times by brand new parts that turned out to be complete crap and failed long before they should have.

This. Modern solid state electronics do not "degrade" when run in spec. It's always some other problem like solder joints, corroded connections or ****ty filters letting particles hit the precision parts in the maf thereby ruining it. (or oil getting into it)

Edit: apparently I'm wrong
 
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Electronics do fail, but with the exception of electrolytic capacitors and vacuum tubes (including CRTs) they don't get "tired", and age is not a good indication of reliability. I have lots of vintage electronics all the way from 1930s radios to 80s computers that I keep in working order. Yes some components drift, especially the old carbon composition resistors but modern types are very stable and properly designed circuits are very resistant to drift, a modern-ish TV can last decades without needing anything adjusted. I've repaired a LOT of gear and cracked solder joints and bad electrolytic caps make up easily 90% of failures, though it's not uncommon for those to cascade and cause further damage. Failure analysis is a complex topic but most failures come down to a few root causes. Cracked connections due to thermal cycles, cracked connections due to mechanical flex/vibrations, moisture ingress and external abuse (short circuits, over-voltage, etc). In solid state components there is a phenomenon called electromigration that is about the only way semiconductors "wear out" with use but it is really only an issue with high speed, high complexity devices like CPUs used in computers. Many programmable memory devices will deteriorate over time and gradually lose the programming they contain but an AMM has none of those.

I suspect that the primary failure mode of Bosch AMM's is either moisture ingress in the ceramic hybrid circuits which have also been a problem in some of the ECUs or cracked connections from the hybrid to the external parts. Given my observations with various aftermarket parts I personally would trust a 30 year old genuine AMM with half a million miles on it that has not been abused over some made in China brand new aftermarket AMM of questionable build quality that very likely will not perform as well as the original even if it does last. "New" does not give me the peace of mind it used to, I've been burned too many times by brand new parts that turned out to be complete crap and failed long before they should have.
Here we go, another shade tree philosopher off topic thread crap

You just wasted the time to type up a ginormous post defining EXACTLY what "tired" means as far as electronics are concerned

When a vehicle won't start or develops a driveability problem, in the middle of nowhere, do you really give a **** if it's a tired cap, worn out switching or power transistor or a cold solder joint?

On top of that, all of the "evidence" you offer up to support your opinion (and that's all that it is) is 100% ANECDOTAL ("observations" made on things that you happen to own and that have NOTHING to do with the topic).......................and then you turn around and show disdain for a part you've never used or owned based solely on it's country of manufacture (wow, now THAT'S objective reasoning!)...............in other words, as P.W.K. used to say

BULL ****!

I have never understood why people can't just say "I don't know" or "I've never used one myself" when it's obvious that that's the case - or why they even post at all to a thread that they have zero experience or affinity with

But since you've derailed it - I rebuild amps, tuners, receivers and speaker systems as a side gig and I can testify under oath (and with a lab scope) - passive parts do get "tired" no matter how much they're babied - it's just a fact - but yeah, some last longer than others

(and how, on a sane Human being's car would a MAF be "abused" anyway? (rhetorical question, no need to actually answer that one)

An electronic component or device is the sum, and only as good as, the quality of the parts used

Cold solder joints, cracked solder joints, values drifting, corrosion, cracked boards etc etc etc....................that's what the **** "tired" means - you saying transistors and ICs don't fail, simply from use? I agree, automotive electronics from reputable manufacturers are very very good and reliable - but NOTHING lasts for ever

You want to argue about Selenium rectifiers - just to cite one OFF TOPIC stupid ass "debate" - lot of guys leave those in for just the reasoning you spent the time to share - and more often than not it costs them a nice amp or receiver - or power supplies in general, whether it's in a $500 HP PC or a $6000 Lexicon MC-1

And how about "sorry state" voltage regulators? Want to count how many charging systems I've repaired, and that stayed repaired, changing out a bad reg?

The two greatest wear and tear factors on electronics are HEAT and INRUSH CURRENT and a MAF is hit with both every time you start your brick. It's hardly unreasonable to start to count your blessings (and keep your fingers crossed) after one's done it's duty for 400,000 miles and 24 Winters and Summers - the person who has to use this vehicle is not into relying on my junk yard stash in the trunk

A Bosch MAF IS a military grade/quality component and their life cycle is truly impressive, a testimony to quality parts and good engineering - BUT NOTHING LASTS FOREVER - especially electronics - and they do get "tired" - just from being used

And now, after my rant (sorry folks), why do you feel the need to let me know how you feel about it anyway?

What does what you would do have to do with my thread's premise? I don't really give a **** what you think, UNLESS you have something meaningful to contribute. Your ignorance of electronics is painful to read - and as far as the made in china hubbub, that ship has sailed pal, let me tell you. PLENTY of Delphi parts on NEW CARS right now (maybe unfortunately, I don't know, that's why I'm asking) - that's their slogan, "the parts cars are born with" and I am sure you know they are the reformulated global economy incarnation of what once was known as AC-DELCO

What you think about buying new, versus continuing to run a HEAVILY used Bosch MAF, wasn't the question - and (unless I missed something) I THINK I started this thread.

I'm going to buy a second MAF sensor for this car and the question is and was - has anyone had any actual, direct experience with the Delphi AF 10199

And I would sincerely appreciate and be grateful to hear from anyone that has

Mind if we stay on topic?

Thanks
 
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This. Modern solid state electronics do not "degrade" when run in spec. It's always some other problem like solder joints, corroded connections or ****ty filters letting particles hit the precision parts in the maf thereby ruining it. (or oil getting into it)

Complete and total BS dude - don't pontificate about things you don't know anything about

"Modern solid state electronics do not "degrade" when run in spec." is probably the most foolish statement I've heard in a while

And ask yourself, why do ignition modules and igniters die if that 's true? Huh? As "sorry state" as it gets, hermetically sealed AND heat sinked
 
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Just a note about the Delphi 'parts the cars came with' comment. In my line of work (won't state publicly, for good reason, deal with tech's full-time, you would know the name, may have dealt with us OP), the current aftermarket parts world as a whole has taken a slide into the ****ter, with some of the dealer level parts following suit. It's getting frighteningly common to see techs that are replacing 1, 2, 3, even 4 times just to get a good part. Even seen Motocraft reman stuff DOA, Delco stuff DOA, Mopar stuff DOA. Toyota seems to be solid still, one of the few. If dealer grade parts are crap, doesn't leave much faith in the aftermarket parts world, and this is across types of components, be it mechanical or electrical.
 
I understand, still not an answer to the question

ALL ELECTRONICS GET TIRED WITH TIME - ALL OF THEM

Doesn't matter whether it's a MAF sensor, a television set, a PC, a solid state tuner. an O2 sensor or a tube amp - the values of electronic parts (the passive guts) drift over time - especially anything operating in as hot an abusive environment as under the hood of a turbo brick

Some last better than others and I agree with you on that point - but after 24 years and 400,000 miles your odds increase towards an eventual failure

I understand all the pros and cons, and I know all about some of the aftermarket **** and clones coming in from overseas, I agree with you on that - just looking for OBJECTIVE real life experience/feedback on Delphi MAFs - not generalizations

You ever used a Delphi MAF or are you running one now?

Thanks

Don't know much about Delphi AMM (but have a Delphi main fuel pump that is noisy/holding up after a year). A very important point I've learned on this forum, is to disconnect the heat exchange piping, so you don't overheat the AMM. ;-)
 
Just a note about the Delphi 'parts the cars came with' comment. In my line of work (won't state publicly, for good reason, deal with tech's full-time, you would know the name, may have dealt with us OP), the current aftermarket parts world as a whole has taken a slide into the ****ter, with some of the dealer level parts following suit. It's getting frighteningly common to see techs that are replacing 1, 2, 3, even 4 times just to get a good part. Even seen Motocraft reman stuff DOA, Delco stuff DOA, Mopar stuff DOA. Toyota seems to be solid still, one of the few. If dealer grade parts are crap, doesn't leave much faith in the aftermarket parts world, and this is across types of components, be it mechanical or electrical.

It's their marketing tag line BS - not mine
As far as the "global economy" changing things, and not so much for the better, creating chaos and do overs where there used to be easy RELIABLE choices, I think I acknowledged that very clearly

Like I wrote, I turned wrenches for more than 35 years

Also why I said right out of the gate that I wasn't interested in any reman - even from Bosch

And this "global supply chain" **** has REALLY knocked the hell out of the situation for the older cars like our much loved bricks

But all of that is a good topic for another bitch thread - I just want feedback on Delphi Part# AF 10199 - simple inquiry
 
Just a note about the Delphi 'parts the cars came with' comment. In my line of work (won't state publicly, for good reason, deal with tech's full-time, you would know the name, may have dealt with us OP), the current aftermarket parts world as a whole has taken a slide into the ****ter, with some of the dealer level parts following suit. It's getting frighteningly common to see techs that are replacing 1, 2, 3, even 4 times just to get a good part. Even seen Motocraft reman stuff DOA, Delco stuff DOA, Mopar stuff DOA. Toyota seems to be solid still, one of the few. If dealer grade parts are crap, doesn't leave much faith in the aftermarket parts world, and this is across types of components, be it mechanical or electrical.

Again - agree with you in spirit - things suck in the parts world today and it ain't gettin' any easier - but so do the majority of today's so called "mechanics"

Makes it even harder still to separate the **** from Shinola - parts AND opinions/observations - especially when listening to/trying to sort through all the internet noise - like reading amazon feedback and the reasons people give an item, any item, a negative rating

I've worked with plenty of guys hang parts multiple times because of their own incompetence too - not always the chinese part's fault

I've had to redo plenty of jobs, in the house and on cars, thanks to ****ty parts and through no fault of my own, so I'm aware
 
Complete and total BS dude - don't pontificate about things you don't know anything about

"Modern solid state electronics do not "degrade" when run in spec." is probably the most foolish statement I've heard in a while

And ask yourself, why do ignition modules and igniters die if that 's true? Huh? As "sorry state" as it gets, hermetically sealed AND heat sinked

I'm not pontificating about things I don't know anything about. I've spent my whole career in engineering, one of my jobs was designing industrial electronics for the street lighting industry where reliability is of very high importance, I'm not just talking out my ass and making guesses.

They fail occasionally, they don't degrade, ther they work or they don't, and age or use is not a real good indication of this. They're not hermetically sealed, they're glue bonded in a plastic housing and the CO adjustment screw has a simple shaft seal that is not perfect. What factors affect reliability depends on what it is and under what conditions it operates and you simply cannot predict reliability of a solid state component based on how long it has been since it left the factory or how many hours it has been in operation. There are just too many factors involved, and my only point is that there is no reason to believe that some cheap aftermarket part will be in any way more reliable or perform better just by virtue of it being new. I would take a good used OEM part any day but I get the distinct feeling that the OP has firmly decided that new always means better so this whole discussion is probably pointless.

Oh and regarding how a part like an AMM could be abused, I can think of lots of things that could happen. Bad airbox thermostat resulting in overheating, mechanical abuse like whacking it or dropping it during maintenance, driving over lots of bumpy gravel roads and potholes, damaged wiring harness putting 12V on something like the signal output pin, faulty voltage regulator exposing it to over-voltage, submerged in water or solvents, car getting struck by lightning? There are countless things that could be considered abuse and potentially damage something.
 
I'm not pontificating about things I don't know anything about.

Dude, please get the **** out of this thread and quite crapping it with your ignorant, no mechanic shade tree bull ****

You're not even able to read a post accurately - I never said MAFs were hermetically sealed, in any post, or any of the other crap you're attributing to me (you're putting words in my mouth and making wild ass assumptions regarding what I "think" or don't "think")

If you have no first hand knowledge of this part then please get the **** out of here

Thanks
 
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I cannt comment on the Delpi as I dont own it, but if you need affordable MAF ... this is what I have bought on Amazon for $60.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ARJP7UW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vVMGzb83RCTXN

It has been working on my Volvo for 6 months now with no issues.. I had the same code 231 , 221 and 113.

Thanks

Did it clear up your codes? That's cool if it did. Any other issues?

I've been looking at those (that brand) mixed reviews (but I know that doesn't always mean anything) is the only reason I haven't pulled the trigger on that one and the fact that until I saw it I had never heard of the brand

But you know what? It's probably out of the same plant as the Delphi

Does it have some good heft to it?

Thanks again
 
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Thanks

Did it clear up your codes? That's cool if it did. Any other issues?

I've been looking at those (that brand) mixed reviews (but I know that doesn't always mean anything) is the only reason I haven't pulled the trigger on that one and the fact that until I saw it I had never heard of the brand

But you know what? It's probably out of the same plant as the Delphi

Does it have some good heft to it?

Thanks again


Yeap, all the codes are gone, together with MAF I have also replaced O2 sensor.. and removed that aluminum tube that goes into Airbox and thermostat thats inside the box.

I dont have experiences with MAF but for the price it was worth to test it.... if not I can always order original sensor :)
So far so good...

yes, it is probably the same plant in China as Delphi, same costumer service in India, just the difference in 1800 number, package and margin... :)
 
Chinese Roulette Anyone?

Dear Jimmy,

I know you don't want to hear this, so I'll show myself the door after this one post.

A clean freshly replaced Bosch reman on a JY smog fail car is the gold standard as much as we have one around here anymore.

:wave:
 
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Dear Jimmy,

I know you don't want to hear this, so I'll show myself the door after this one post.

A clean freshly replaced Bosch reman on a JY smog fail car is the gold standard as much as we have one around here anymore.

:wave:
Sure about that? After reading a lot of threads here the "gold standard" trend seems to be hang junk yard **** on your brick and see what happens (for a lot of posters) - that or keep buying a ****load of parts until the problem or the light goes away

Actual diagnostics seems kind of rare but I'm starting to figure out who's who and I realize you are NOT in the category - you can post to any thread I start anytime, I might learn something

I'm happy you've found something that works for you - I explained at length now about 5 times I no longer have the full faith in Bosch reman stuff like I used to - at least what I've had coming out of WorldPac last couple years anyway - it just all depends on what it is and Bosch is subletting so much **** out nowadays....................you get the point

Plus even paying inside wholesale - **** that - unless they're going to give me the roadside assistance deal they're promoting with their premium stater and alternator line

MY COST, level II inside wholesale on the reman piece of **** from Bosch is $270 - but nobody can tell me who's doing the rebuilding - for all the **** I know it's the same outfit building the Delphi crap...............Bosch has been out of primarily Germany and Spain for years now as I am sure you are already well aware

It's not a smog fail car never was never will be (license is still current ; - )

The Lambda related codes were an easy fix like they usually are

If I was 17 and again, with plenty of time left on the clock and just dicking around with my own crap, junkyard **** would be fine

Now, I've over explained this for the last time, but that's cool too

I just don't know what it is about the ****ing internet that makes getting SIMPLE STRAIGHTFORWARD ANSWERS to SIMPLE, EASY, YES OR NO QUESTIONS so ****ing difficult without having to hear/read post after post after post that doesn't have a ****ing thing to do with the question

Or why people can't just say "don't know" with out jerking off with the written equivalent of a selfie

OR, just not ****ing post at all if you have nothing DIRECTLY RELEVANT, TO THE QUESTION, to offer

****ing amazing
 
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This is a repair forum. During discussions, we sometimes discuss how things work, share opinions on facts and myths, etc. And when all else fails, we put on our ****ing big boy pants, buy some ****ing parts, and put them on the ****ing car. And sometimes we get tired of hissy fits and close a ****ing thread.
 
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