• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Water pump gasket leak

OEM doesn't mean anything. OE does.

Water Pump Heater Pipe O-Ring 418411
Water Pump to Block Gasket 1378491
Water Pump Top O-Ring 1336255

www.volvopartslisle.com is where I buy most OE parts.

.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for sharing the link

OEM is for Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Parts: These are produced by a manufacturer that supplies at least one OE part to a vehicle manufacturer. OEM parts may not have been original to the car, but are held to higher-quality standards and stringent quality control.

unfortunately sealing ring 418411 on tascaparts.com has been discontinued..
 
OE and OEM are often used interchangably, but seriously, if you even know what OEM means you know to look for original Volvo parts. Wren just gave you the part numbers, use those and provided you have clean, smooth sealing surfaces it should go together dry, and not leak at all. Oh, proper installation is part of that equation too.
 
Bad advice, really bad advice

MIGHT have gotten away with it (dry seal install) when the car was new and the top seals were coming from a first world economy but not after 20 - 25 years
99% of the sealant is pushed out anyway and there is no "mess" if you know what you are doing - the sealant also acts as lubrication to allow for smooth expansion of the seal when you rotate the pump up against the head as well as filling any tiny pits and scratches

Bottom line - not using any sealer is just opening yourself up to a possible redo (note I said POSSIBLE) - why chance it?

Bad advice based on what exactly? In ~25 years of working on family and friend's Volvos it has worked for me.

Why chance it? Because sealant makes a mess, and if the rubber seal deteriorates the sealant won't stop it from leaking anyway. Because the only time I've had these seals leak, I found they had been slathered in silicone. Next time you change a pump you have to scrape all the old sealant off the surface which is a pain in the butt and the last guy glopping silicone all over is probably why you've (apparently) had them leak when installed dry. These never used sealant originally and don't need it now, just use a reasonable quality seal and install it properly and it won't leak.

While not an issue on water pumps, I've seen silicone do far more harm than good. Multiple times I've worked on engines where somebody used sealant on something that got it into the oil system and clogged something up, it's a great way to spin a bearing and kill a motor. On the cooling system it just creates a messy hassle, I've wasted too much of my life tediously picking globs of silicone off of engine parts that didn't need it in the first place. The only places I use any kind of sealant on redblock motors is a little Hylomar Blue under the front cam bearing cap corners, the four corners where the camshaft cover gasket bends over the bearing caps, where the rear main seal cover meets the oil pan, and thread sealant on the heater hose nipple under the intake manifold.
 
OEM is for Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Parts: These are produced by a manufacturer that supplies at least one OE part to a vehicle manufacturer. OEM parts may not have been original to the car, but are held to higher-quality standards and stringent quality control.

That means absolutely nothing in regards to the quality of the parts being sold. All it means is that the manufacturer made some part for some new car company at some time. It's akin to assuming that a Ford Pinto is a great car because Ford also made GT-40's. The term is often used deceptively.


Look for the sealing ring at the updated URL for Volvo Parts Lisle or call them and ask for Wayne. He helps me all the time. (Not sure why I typed Tasca because I gave up on them years ago.)
 
So final verdict..

Thanks to your advices and support, I have decided to test my skills and remove the water pump..instead of my original plan of not removing the pump and just trying to cover the leak with the silicone.

I have ordered original Volvo Seals for this project, ( it was similar price to Victor-Reinz seals).

Thank you all again for advices, and will keep you posted! :)
 
Bad advice based on what exactly? In ~25 years of working on family and friend's Volvos it has worked for me.

Why chance it? Because sealant makes a mess, and if the rubber seal deteriorates the sealant won't stop it from leaking anyway. Because the only time I've had these seals leak, I found they had been slathered in silicone. Next time you change a pump you have to scrape all the old sealant off the surface which is a pain in the butt and the last guy glopping silicone all over is probably why you've (apparently) had them leak when installed dry. These never used sealant originally and don't need it now, just use a reasonable quality seal and install it properly and it won't leak.

While not an issue on water pumps, I've seen silicone do far more harm than good. Multiple times I've worked on engines where somebody used sealant on something that got it into the oil system and clogged something up, it's a great way to spin a bearing and kill a motor. On the cooling system it just creates a messy hassle, I've wasted too much of my life tediously picking globs of silicone off of engine parts that didn't need it in the first place. The only places I use any kind of sealant on redblock motors is a little Hylomar Blue under the front cam bearing cap corners, the four corners where the camshaft cover gasket bends over the bearing caps, where the rear main seal cover meets the oil pan, and thread sealant on the heater hose nipple under the intake manifold.

You have to not be an idiot and have a little skill (experience + common sense + technique)
I raised and sent two kids through college and my wife, and paid all the bills for 35 years turning wrenches
I was a Volvo master Vista technician by 1983 - so I think I can talk to you eye ball to eye ball there good buddy with your 25 under the tree

Silicone, properly applied, protects the seal itself as well as fills in fissures and imperfections
Not going to debate something this obvious with a shade tree hack

And for the record - YOU HAVE NEVER seen silicone sealer(s) harm a damn thing

ONLY thing you HAVE SEEN harm anything was ****ty work
 
That means absolutely nothing in regards to the quality of the parts being sold. All it means is that the manufacturer made some part for some new car company at some time. It's akin to assuming that a Ford Pinto is a great car because Ford also made GT-40's. The term is often used deceptively.


Look for the sealing ring at the updated URL for Volvo Parts Lisle or call them and ask for Wayne. He helps me all the time. (Not sure why I typed Tasca because I gave up on them years ago.)

It does mean something, as much as it can, and it does mean that the parts manufacturer did actually make something for the specific model (even though it may have only been the wiper blades) But you are 100% correct, it's not a guarantee that they supplied the part you are buying for your job

We can only go on faith nowadays no matter whose name is on the box

As for who made the part (a specific part) that came on the car, from the FACTORY, that would be the OES supplier
 
Last edited:
Back
Top