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240 Another wheel bearing question

durk80

durk80

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Location
South GA
Probably a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway...I've removed the hub from the spindle from one side of the car. Cleaned the bearings and spindle, hub, etc. Can I pack the bearings and grease the spindle and be on my merry way? The reason why I ask is because I'm a little leary about having to tap the races back in or get them off without damage.

Thank you for your advice in advance.
 
Yes, if the bearings and races are not damaged or scored they can be reused. A thorough clean and grease will be fine.

Have you done this before?

There’s a few things you need need to be aware of.
 
cleanflametrap said:
Providing this is a question about the front wheel bearings, one of those things is how easily the inner seal is damaged.
Click to expand...


Thank you cleanflametrap for your response! It probably wouldn't hurt to buy a couple extra in case they tear. The one on there looked fine; it wasn't brittle or in the process of checking. Is there something else I need to do to get it to seal properly that isn't in the Chilton's manual? And yes, they are the front wheel bearings.
 
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c1800 said:
Yes, if the bearings and races are not damaged or scored they can be reused. A thorough clean and grease will be fine.

Have you done this before?

There?s a few things you need need to be aware of.
Click to expand...




Thanks, c1800;6043814 for asking! The bearings don't appear to be scored nor do the races. The spindle has some scoring though where the inner bearing sits- though not feelable with a fingernail . And yes, I am a virgin to this maintenance task, so I welcome any info that I need to be aware of. I do have a Chilton and Haynes' manual, but they aren't always thorough enough for a novice like myself.
 
In addition to the mention of seals by CFT, probably best to replace them while you?re in there. Removing the seal will allow you to remove the inner bearing to give it a good clean and wipe out the old grease from inside the hub. I expect your manuals will cover the rest, including cleaning the bearings, packing the bearings, putting grease inside the hub, installing the seal, and the proper torque spec for the castle nut.

Any questions just ask.
 
I would add that there are many different types of grease. Be sure to use one rated for disc brakes as they make a lot of heat and you don't want a grease that will get soft and runny at the high temps. A high moly content grease is good as an example.
 
Thanks all for the suggestions on grease! I have a tube of Valvoline full synthetic gray grease which I bought for another project--it says its good for disc brakes. Now, I'm just waiting on the other bits like new seals to arrive in the mail.
 
One one side the inner race spins around when I press and rotate my finger in a circular direction. The other one that I removed does not. It seems like I could use a prick punch and then use some loctite 660 on it. I guess for now, I'll remove it, purchase new races/bearings and then see about getting it pressed in at a reputable place. Unless anyone has any other suggestions :)
 
So you are saying the outer race on the inner wheel bearing is too loose in the hub? If that is the case. Be sure to double check the part number on the actual race itself to make sure they are correct. I have been sent the wrong race for the proper bearing before.

For a good used hub I would check with Voluparts. I think they are near or in Atlanta. I used to buy parts from them. Always reasonable prices and good service.
 
dl242gt said:
So you are saying the outer race on the inner wheel bearing is too loose in the hub? If that is the case. Be sure to double check the part number on the actual race itself to make sure they are correct. I have been sent the wrong race for the proper bearing before.

For a good used hub I would check with Voluparts. I think they are near or in Atlanta. I used to buy parts from them. Always reasonable prices and good service.
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Thank you again, dl242gt! I purchased a FAG bearing set through FCP and a used hub from the 'wanted' (more like needed) section. When the parts arrive, I'll double check the numbers to make sure that they will fit the new and the old hub before installation. I've ordered things I couldn't find anywhere else from Voluparts before. And you are right, they have good stuff.
 
I've got a little rule of thumb that has always helped me.......your mileage may vary.
If the description for the grease includes a "G" in the specification number, the grease is "Good to go" (my terminology) on bearings and front suspension parts. I don't know if that's what the "G" really stands for, but it is easy to remember.
NLGI specification is the real deal.
 
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durk80 said:
Well, It seems like the previous owner had already done this and it looks like a used hub is in order because the new inner race did not want to fit either. I didn't even try the loctite since it looked like that trick had been used before. So, does anyone have an extra they are willing to part with? lol


[url=https://postimg.cc/4m7Xp4ny][/URL]

[url=https://postimg.cc/mtvBjxFw][/URL]
Click to expand...

Somebody set the roller bearing up too tight and spun a bearing.

Yes you need another hub.
 
The FAG bearings I purchased from a stateside European online auto parts store: https://i.postimg.cc/PJ0RGMy3/DSC-0021.jpg Nice Trick.

Inner bearing:
https://i.postimg.cc/fWPF0wsc/DSC-0019.jpg

But not all of the bearings are made in Brazil as seen stamped on outer bearing:
https://i.postimg.cc/sX6LmzhR/DSC-0015.jpg

And: https://i.postimg.cc/mk684HWG/DSC-0014.jpg

Now, I installed the inner bearing and race first. When unpacked the outer bearing and checked the etching, I felt letdown, and at that moment, I could hear my father screaming 'never buy Chinese steel--they keep the high quality steel for themselves and export the rest'. I guess I shouldn't worry about it because he is in his late 70's and things have greatly improved since then, right? However for those curious for where things are made (like me) since the country of origin was 'unlisted' on the website.
 
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