home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > maintenance & nonperformance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-13-2018, 01:51 AM   #1
jambo
Board Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Question 91, heated seat switch?

Both front seats heated, but now the driver's side switch on-indicator doesn't light and the warm is gone on that side The wiring diagram I'm guessin' for the '90 is going to be the same as for the '91 (?) http://justplainobvious.blogspot.com...volvo-240.html and the guy who publishes this says "If your heated-seat indicator bulb illuminates, it means the fuse and wiring up to that point is good." Does this mean conversely that if the left bulb doesn't illuminate but the right (passenger) side does then the problem is likely with the driver's-side switch itself?
jambo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 02:19 AM   #2
GeneralBurrito
Board Member
 
GeneralBurrito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: California
Default

Looks like I'm subscribing to this, both my driver and passenger switches don't light up.
GeneralBurrito is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 04:17 AM   #3
Lando
Arthur Digby Sellers
 
Lando's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Rancho Relaxo
Default

Light bulbs in the switches could be out, or switches could be bad. Check with a DVOM. Should see 12V on one side of the switch with the key on. Should see continuity through the switch with the switch closed.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by amerbritcan View Post
Lando you have an enticing midriff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 240240 View Post
get on my lawn
Lando is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 04:27 AM   #4
apachechef
Burnt Sierra Madre
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Letterkenny, ON
Default

Check fuse, iirc they are on different fuses?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by lummert View Post
Dammit, Lummert.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse8931 View Post
Well keep us updated on how your dumbass plan goes.
apachechef is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 04:43 AM   #5
stiligFox
Part-time Tinkerer
 
stiligFox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Default

It might be my foggy memory but I also seem to recall that the seat won’t come on at all unless the interior temp of the car is below a certain threshold. When it does come on it should be full power for the first few seconds and if it’s not extremely cold it will go to like 1/2 power.

Could be wrong but I recall reading that somewhere...
__________________
stiligFox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 05:27 AM   #6
Otto Mattik
Board Member
 
Otto Mattik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Midwest
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by apachechef View Post
Check fuse, iirc they are on different fuses?
* on my 92 GL the fuses are fine, but something else is afoot
__________________
Originally posted by Jack
"You talk about parts cannon but you throw the Obamacare diagnostic tool orgy onto this like it's a cloned embryo of baby Jesus"
_______________________

Future need of elf assistant for interior work - cash/beer option
Otto Mattik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 11:26 AM   #7
Rusty_ratchet
Board Member
 
Rusty_ratchet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Southwest
Default

If the fuses are fine and you haven't taken the console apart, then it is probably easiest to check for 12V at the connector under the seat. If you have 12V there then the problem is in the seat. If not, it is likely the switch.
Rusty_ratchet is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2018, 01:49 PM   #8
dl242gt
Can play the blues
 
dl242gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
Default

The contacts inside the switches get dirty. You can clean the switches by carefully taking them apart. My a/c switch did this and cleaning it fixed it. You use a couple small screwdrivers to pry the plastic housing tabs apart to get to the parts inside. Heated seat switches are in a location that gets a lot of dirt.
__________________
Dave,
1982 242 turbo. 339k miles. Stuff...old stuff....cool...old...stuff...rust...not...cool...
1993 245 Classic, 413k miles, enem V15. 5spd. IPD bars and chassis braces. New Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. chipped ezk. Been a good road warrior.
1981 242 turbo. 71k miles. Cool old stuff...
1969 145S more cool old stuff. A barn car.
1967 123GT yet more cool stuff in the barn.
dl242gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 06:56 AM   #9
Otto Mattik
Board Member
 
Otto Mattik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Midwest
Default

Great points, can't hurt to check the switch contacts, thanks for advice.
Otto Mattik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 08:11 AM   #10
mattd1205
Board Member
 
mattd1205's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Default

The thermostats in the seat grids have a tendency to fail. I bypassed them on mine and it works fine now. If you're getting 12 volts at the connector under the seat that would be the next thing to check.
mattd1205 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 01:49 PM   #11
nel621
Board Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattd1205 View Post
The thermostats in the seat grids have a tendency to fail. I bypassed them on mine and it works fine now. If you're getting 12 volts at the connector under the seat that would be the next thing to check.
If you bypass the thermostats won't the seat grids overheat? Fire much?
nel621 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 04:55 PM   #12
Rusty_ratchet
Board Member
 
Rusty_ratchet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Southwest
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
If you bypass the thermostats won't the seat grids overheat? Fire much?
I did this and regulated the temp using the switch on the dash. It was inconvenient so I built a thermostat that goes under the seat and has a thermistor (as temp sensor) under the heating element. It works but it would have been a lot easier to just buy a new seat heater.
Rusty_ratchet is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 05:13 PM   #13
dl242gt
Can play the blues
 
dl242gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
Default

You used to be able to buy that exact thermostat from electronics suppliers like digikey and newark. But I haven't check them for that part for a long time. Volvo does still supply it, too. 3521725 is available from gcp.se for $23 plus shipping.
dl242gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 09:14 PM   #14
wyatt8740
Board Member
 
wyatt8740's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
The contacts inside the switches get dirty. You can clean the switches by carefully taking them apart.
I've done this, too. Be careful though - there's a little ball-bearing and a spring inside. Take it apart somewhere where you'll be able to find them.
wyatt8740 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 02:48 PM   #15
wyatt8740
Board Member
 
wyatt8740's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Default

And if it turbs out it is a switch failure and cleaning doesn't fix it, I've got an extra switch sans lightbulb here.
wyatt8740 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:12 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.