home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > General > showroom

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-09-2009, 04:35 PM   #1
cmunkee
Board Member
 
cmunkee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bend Or
Default pics and thoughts- 240 + virgos + spacers

Any one have pics of virgos w/ spacers on a 240. I want mine to be close too flush so thinking 20mm up front and 25mm rear.
__________________
'76 245 green machine
'77 242 track slut in the making

'99 V70XC
cmunkee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 04:49 PM   #2
neptune
2.1L 2.3L 2.8L 2.8L
 
neptune's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Edmonds, WA
Default

I have a pair of 20mm spacers on the rear wheels with Virgo wheels.
Before spacers:

After spacers:

For the amount of money and effort involved I can hardly tell I did it. I've parked right next to another stock 240 turbo at car shows and the difference isn't noticeable.

I'd go the probably easier and cheaper route of buying wheels that are a little wider.
__________________
www.neptune242.com
1981 242 Turbo |1996 850R |1980 Coupé (Project)
neptune is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2009, 05:01 PM   #3
cmunkee
Board Member
 
cmunkee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bend Or
Default

Yeah, but they're for my skinny snow tires.
cmunkee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2009, 12:16 PM   #4
daijoubanai
waste of skin and blood
 
daijoubanai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Default

it looks better I think
__________________
daijoubanai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2009, 12:26 PM   #5
Redwood Chair
K-jet For Life
 
Redwood Chair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -
Default Scrub Radius

Is your front suspension tight?
__________________
Raise The Lowered


Image hosted by servimg.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi a stock can support?

Redwood Chair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2009, 01:11 PM   #6
Steve and his 244
Board Member
 
Steve and his 244's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wakefield, UK
Default

Im considering this too, so would be interested in seeing these pics..
__________________

Thor - 1980 244 R-Sport project. +TIC, sports suspension, sports interior, galaxies, and rebuilding to epic standards!

Click the banner to go to project thread...
Steve and his 244 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2009, 01:46 PM   #7
cmunkee
Board Member
 
cmunkee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bend Or
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Is your front suspension tight?
Full poly, HD's, all the bracing, and coilovers. So... yes it's tight and firm.
cmunkee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2009, 01:55 PM   #8
andysbeta
thrsh
 
andysbeta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Mancos, CO (no longer the Central Valley Smog Bank)
Default

Yeah, the spacers are very subtle - I am running MSW's on my 245, offset is 18 which puts it further like that, yet I still feel it sticks in a bit on my 245 too.
andysbeta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2009, 05:50 PM   #9
DFF53
Board Member
 
DFF53's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Default

The track difference between the front and back of the 240 series are 70mm, so 35mm either side at the rear, so if you thinking of making the virgos sit flush with the body , you will be looking at 55mm rear spacers if you use 20mm fronts. The other option is wider wheels. The other option is staggered wheels that are an inch wider at the back , so 20mm fronts and 30mm at the rear.
__________________

Have you got a Volvo flag ? I do !
DFF53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 04:23 PM   #10
cmunkee
Board Member
 
cmunkee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bend Or
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DFF53 View Post
The track difference between the front and back of the 240 series are 70mm, so 35mm either side at the rear, so if you thinking of making the virgos sit flush with the body , you will be looking at 55mm rear spacers if you use 20mm fronts. The other option is wider wheels. The other option is staggered wheels that are an inch wider at the back , so 20mm fronts and 30mm at the rear.
Or I need to finish an 8.8 rear end or look at fitting a 940 axle under there.
cmunkee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 04:48 PM   #11
15A
World's Oldest Brewery
 
15A's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: OH-MI....just like it sounds
Default

I've only asked this question about 20x with no responses....nice to see a before/after rear spacer shot....such a sharp car too. I do see a (albeit) subtle difference....but that's the best kind. Did you have any issues with clearance (like having to roll the lip)?

I'm going to be running 15x7's and was thinking of going the full 35mm in the backs....might have to be a tad less since the rims are 7" wide......got awhile before Spring to think on it. Would be nice to see something spaced even more (with the fronts done too).

I'd never do 2 different width wheels for rotation reasons. Had 245's on the front and 255's on the back of a Monte Carlo SS I had years ago. Looked the shtz but was expensive in the long haul.
__________________

(IF YOU WANT ME TO LEAVE YOU FB AFTER THE FACT, JUST SAY)

I didn't sleep well last night so I made my coffee this morning with Red Bull instead of water.
I got halfway to work before I realized I forgot my car.
15A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 05:10 PM   #12
JW240
All idiot, no savant
 
JW240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Netherlands, Europe
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 15A View Post
I've only asked this question about 20x with no responses....nice to see a before/after rear spacer shot....such a sharp car too. I do see a (albeit) subtle difference....but that's the best kind. Did you have any issues with clearance (like having to roll the lip)?

I'm going to be running 15x7's and was thinking of going the full 35mm in the backs....might have to be a tad less since the rims are 7" wide......got awhile before Spring to think on it. Would be nice to see something spaced even more (with the fronts done too).

I'd never do 2 different width wheels for rotation reasons. Had 245's on the front and 255's on the back of a Monte Carlo SS I had years ago. Looked the shtz but was expensive in the long haul.
My 240 had some rubbing with virgo+195/65 air ride tires+23 mm spacers.



(mediocre pic, car wearing its sleeper dirt marks)
The 2x 23mm is quite visible imho, looks better.

Volvo has a document that describes how to cut the rear wheel arch lip to clear the wheels when the r-sport spacer kit is fitted. Next year i am going to do that. There is some rust down there that i can remove as well then.
__________________
240 | 1991 | 324 KKm | B230F+T | Cossie T3 60/63 | M90 | Toyo R1R/Polaris
Amazon/121 | 1968 | finished 2020+? (for sale)
760 | 1984 | B6284T swap | 2x13T | finished 201?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Don't forget about properly seasoning it on HF jackstands for a couple years whilst dreaming about big powah 'goals'.
JW240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 05:30 PM   #13
neptune
2.1L 2.3L 2.8L 2.8L
 
neptune's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Edmonds, WA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 15A View Post
Did you have any issues with clearance (like having to roll the lip)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
My 240 had some rubbing with virgo+195/65 air ride tires+23 mm spacers.
Volvo has a document that describes how to cut the rear wheel arch lip to clear the wheels when the r-sport spacer kit is fitted.
Yes, as JW mentioneds I cut 10mm from the back side of the fender lip per the Volvo kit instructions. I've had no issues with 10mm cut and 15x6 Virgo with stock 195/60-15 tires. I have also fit 16x7et 23 BBS RA with I think 205 series tires with the spacers still on, but the tire is very very close to the lip and I'll feel safer when I cut or roll it some more.
neptune is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 05:38 PM   #14
15A
World's Oldest Brewery
 
15A's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: OH-MI....just like it sounds
Default

Excellent info...thanks. Is this R-Sport document posted anywhere?

btw....is there anyplace that does fender rolling? I've seen a very pro looking tool that does this (bolts to the hub) but no idea where to find one...or better yet - someone who does it.
15A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 06:25 PM   #15
DFF53
Board Member
 
DFF53's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Default

It wouldn't be a bad idea to trim the wheel arch lip, even those with no wheel rubbing issues. The major rust spot for 240s seems to be the bottom of the wheel arch anyway due to dirt getting stuck on the lip. When this happens it retains moisture that causes the rust. I will be trimming mine as well when i put my BBSs on.
DFF53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 07:01 PM   #16
cmunkee
Board Member
 
cmunkee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bend Or
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 15A View Post
Excellent info...thanks. Is this R-Sport document posted anywhere?

btw....is there anyplace that does fender rolling? I've seen a very pro looking tool that does this (bolts to the hub) but no idea where to find one...or better yet - someone who does it.
The tool is available from Tirerack. I think it's about $225. A little spendy unless a few people were going in on it. Tape, a cut off wheel to remove the 10mm as not to get into the spot welds then a heat gun (to keep the paint flexible and prevent cracking) and a good sized mallet did the trick for me to fit 255/35 18s in the back w/o rubbing. Now I just want the same look with Virgos and my snow tires. 25mm spacers it is.
cmunkee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 07:29 PM   #17
VolvoPunch
Board Member
 
VolvoPunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Atlanta
Default

Question, are spacers safe?
VolvoPunch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 07:48 PM   #18
GrandmaSideways
AW71AW71AW71 AW71AW71AW71
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Vancouver B.C.
Default

So long as they're torqued properly yes. And they have to leave enough tread on the stud so either pushing in new ones or adapter style. Wheels falling off is so not fun.
GrandmaSideways is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 07:54 PM   #19
cmunkee
Board Member
 
cmunkee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bend Or
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VolvoPunch View Post
Question, are spacers safe?
Yes spacers are safe. Even safer if they are hubcentric so they do not stress the lugs.
cmunkee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 08:12 PM   #20
thebornotaku
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
 
thebornotaku's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Rohnert Park, CA
Default

The only downside I can see, really, is by putting the weight of the wheel further from the hub, you can wear through wheel bearings / axle bearings faster, but it's not like you're going to wreck your **** right away or even any time soon. If you're really paranoid about it, you could replace your wheelbearings/axle bearings prior to running spacers, but you just shouldn't worry about it too much since you'll probably never actually get to the point where they'll fail.

tl;dr:
yeah, spacers are safe.
__________________
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle "Diego"
1986 Volvo 244DL M47 "Turd Ferguson"
2009 Volkswagen Rabbit 2.5 "Snowbunny"
thebornotaku is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 08:15 PM   #21
GrandmaSideways
AW71AW71AW71 AW71AW71AW71
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Vancouver B.C.
Default

Here is hydras on a 1986 740 rear end with 25mm adapters.



just for the 7/9 series guys wondering about it
GrandmaSideways is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 08:26 PM   #22
neptune
2.1L 2.3L 2.8L 2.8L
 
neptune's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Edmonds, WA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 15A View Post
Excellent info...thanks. Is this R-Sport document posted anywhere?

btw....is there anyplace that does fender rolling? I've seen a very pro looking tool that does this (bolts to the hub) but no idea where to find one...or better yet - someone who does it.
Here's the important part, the cutting instructions.
http://www.volvo-power.net/articles/...the_fender.gif
I pulled it from this old thread because its easier than scanning my own: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=48882

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmunkee View Post
The tool is available from Tirerack. I think it's about $225. A little spendy unless a few people were going in on it. Tape, a cut off wheel to remove the 10mm as not to get into the spot welds then a heat gun (to keep the paint flexible and prevent cracking) and a good sized mallet did the trick for me to fit 255/35 18s in the back w/o rubbing. Now I just want the same look with Virgos and my snow tires. 25mm spacers it is.
The 240 fender lip is a pretty tough piece two layers of steel and a lot of spot welds, I found it easier to cut than to roll. But do whatever is easier for you. My Bertone was rolled to fit 15x8 Oscam wheels and it worked out quite nicely.
neptune is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 09:03 PM   #23
cuaz64
Board Member
 
cuaz64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Guatemala
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandmaSideways View Post
Here is hydras on a 1986 740 rear end with 25mm adapters.
.....
just for the 7/9 series guys wondering about it
Thank you I was thinking about that a few months ago.

Maybe this help you using wider stuff in the rear:
http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~am..._clearance.htm
http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~am...pacer_info.htm
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by opeterson View Post
So yeah, I had a lot of fun. But we're all TurboBrickers at heart and that means nothing comes easily.
Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
no alchemists allowed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Tbricks is a strange, but fun and informative phenomenon.
cuaz64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2009, 10:44 PM   #24
15A
World's Oldest Brewery
 
15A's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: OH-MI....just like it sounds
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by neptune View Post
Here's the important part, the cutting instructions.
http://www.volvo-power.net/articles/...the_fender.gif
I pulled it from this old thread because its easier than scanning my own: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=48882
Thanks very much.


Quote:
The 240 fender lip is a pretty tough piece two layers of steel and a lot of spot welds, I found it easier to cut than to roll. But do whatever is easier for you. My Bertone was rolled to fit 15x8 Oscam wheels and it worked out quite nicely.
I may ask the body shop come Spring at paint time to cut the lip. Having someone else do it is easier yet.
15A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2009, 12:37 AM   #25
towerymt
the real Towery
 
towerymt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: VA, USA
Default

The body curves in at the bottom, so to make it flush with the body at the top of the arch, the tire ends up having to stick out past the fender lip at the front/back, so it's pointless. The car will have to be high to prevent rubbing, or you have to pull the fenders out so the tire can go under the lip.

The fender lip rolling tool doesn't work well on 240 rear fender lips, so don't waste your money. The 2-3 panels spot welded together prevents the lip from moving easily, so the fender lip rolling tool will just make your fender lip lumpy.

Cutting the lip with a cutoff wheel works great. Then hammer it flat if you need to. A plastic coated dead blow hammer works well for that.

Using spacers on the front when the wheels already clear the strut tube is a bad idea. Using spacers to move the rear wheels out further is a bad idea when the car already understeers.
__________________
1987 244 | Project Thread | The 87 | Now with 74 mods and counting
1992 244 | The 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poik View Post
244s are drop dead ugly and suck.
towerymt is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:40 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.