Engine removal question

Hey there everyone. So as some of you may know, last Tuesday my engine let go. I?ve already found a replacement engine that I need to pick up. The car is a 1990 760 turbo, and the new engine is also a 1990. I?ve pulled engines before, but it was always on a fwd manual transmission volvo. Never messed with autos before, or rwd. Right now I?ve got the
Manifolds and head removed, and I believe all electronics disconnected. I?ve removed the bellhousing bolts and have the engine moved forward about 3-4?, with a jack supporting the front of the transmission. My plan has been to leave the transmission in the car and just pull the engine. Is this even possible, or does the trans have to come out with the engine? I can tell the torque converter is gonna come with the engine as I have removed the 4 16mm bolts holding it to the flexplate. I have the electric fan, radiator, and intercooler removed so siding everything forward to get the torque converter passed the transmission shouldn?t be an issue, I?m just worried about breaking something inside of the transmission. Thanks all in advanced!

Ideally you would try to separate the torque converter from the flexplate in situ. If it refuses, it's nbd, just try not to jack the engine up while the input shaft is still in the converter.

Once it's out make sure the converter seats properly or you will find that the engine doesn't fit back on the trans, and if you are a ham fisted buffoon and impact the bellhousing in anyway you will find out you destroyed the trans pump after everything else gets installed.

You should have pulled the transmission first.

From the reading I’ve been doing, my plan so far was the get the engine and torque converter out, and when it comes time to reassemble I was gonna install the torque converter into the transmission, than line up and bolt up the motor afterwards.

At the point I’m currently at, do you guys think I should just continue with my above plan, or since I’m not completely separated try to revolt the engine and transmission back together and take them out as one? My trans already has the accumulator mod done, fresh fluid and filter on Christmas, and doesn’t have any leaks, so since I wasn’t planning on doing anything to the trans, that’s why I was wanting to leave it in the car. Also because I’m doing all this in a dirt driveway, so the less jacking and working under the car the better

You should have pulled the transmission first.

You should never remove the motor with the convertor attached. Well almost never, this is T-Bricks.....

Remove the bolts holding the convertor to the flywheel and push (pry gently) the convertor off the back of the motor if it is stuck.

The centering knob can get stuck in the back of the crank.

Leaving the convertor on the motor can cause damage to the pump, convertor, and or seal. Also leaving the converter on the motor makes it 8" longer and heavier.

If you have the ability to remove engine, then you should of just removed engine and transmission together. It isn't much extra work. Then you could reassemble outside of the car. When you're ready, install engine and transmission together. You'll have way more headaches the way you are doing it.

Ok guys, sounds like a plan to me. Should be too hard to slide the engine back enough to get a few of the bolts installed again and pull it all as one, I really appreciate it. Any chances I have already boogered something up? Once I get it all out of the car how should I go about inspecting for damages??

Sorry if these are noobish questions, but my only engine removal before was a whiteblock with m56 attaches.

On a side note, I was surprisingly able to find a gasket/seal kit on carid.com for the bottom end. Between that and the head gasket kit, it seems like that should be the only gaskets I’ll need, though I haven’t really studied it to make sure. https://www.carid.com/victor-reinz/...pn-cs5727.html?singleid=90685329&url=18713168
There’s the link to the kit

I would not try to reassemble the engine and trans without properly seating the separated convertor.
There are pump drive tangs and at least 2 sets of splines that all have to be fully engaged between the convertor and the trans.

Over the years I've done it all three ways.
1) Pulled trans out from underneath, then pulled engine out the top
2) Pulled the engine out, trans in place
3) Pulled engine and trans out together

#3 really is the easiest, but not by a huge margin. It helps a LOT to have a load leveler on your engine hoist - that way you can tilt the engine back and forth as it comes out. You don't need to take the whole front of the car off.

Dirty Rick said:

I would not try to reassemble the engine and trans without properly seating the separated convertor.
There are pump drive tangs and at least 2 sets of splines that all have to be fully engaged between the convertor and the trans.

Click to expand...

I wasn?t going to full tighten the bolts between engine and trans, just maybe get 3 or 4 bolts threaded enough to make sure they come out as one

Dirty Rick said:

I would not try to reassemble the engine and trans without properly seating the separated convertor.
There are pump drive tangs and at least 2 sets of splines that all have to be fully engaged between the convertor and the trans.

Click to expand...

Your really should pay attention to the above. There are three alignments that must be accomplished before the torque converter is properly seated. Anything less is a BFD.

You might find it e zer to remove all the rads inter cooler grill ect and pull it all straight out. If you have a lift, dump it out the bottom. New converter seal is a MUST.

At this point, you would be better served to drop the trans out from the car on its own, then pull the engine separately.

If you do bolt the trans back up, be sure to rotate the trans to get the torque converter fully seated. You should be able to push the trans fully back up against the motor. 'running it down with the bolts' will just result in a damaged trans or engine. you should fully seat the trans. having it waving around due to loose bolts is just a recipe to damage the trans input shaft.

when reinstalling, bolt the engine and trans together and install as a unit. Again, you need to be able to fully seat the trans by hand/on a jack prior to bolting it up. DONT run the bolts down to close up the gap if there is any resistance. You will just F up the trans.

you will need to pull the radiator core support, radiator, intercooler and grille etc. to get the engine out/in. DONT try to lift it over unless you are using a forklift or a TALL overhead bridge crane. You will just smash it all up if you don't remove that stuff.

Having a engine leveler will make your life much easier. You need to come out/in at a high angle and then tilt it back down. just horking on a couple of straps and zip ties will just booger things up.

Don't underestimate the weight of these motors - especially with an autotragic bolted to it. They are heavier than they look. You really don't want to have the hoist fall over.