• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

962j

Front suspension. But no vibration at an 80mph cruise and there has been 2 sets of wheels/tires and adapters. Now I hvent checked runout on the adapters and I made these ones hubcentric too

My car is kinda low, I wonder if front geometry might play any part?

I'll check run out and email Ben about the geometry
 
I don't feel it really in the wheel. It's very apparent in the dash more than anything
 
hackster said:
Frontened......If it doesnt do it on the Dyno, sounds to me like a frontend issue.

Is the vibration all over the car or does it come through mostly through your feet and the steering wheel? I chased down that stupid frontend vibration on the 240 to a few things..mostly to a poorly machined front hub. Made the car so much more enjoyable to drive.

It still has a little tiny bit of vibration in it but with 18's and lo pro tires I guess its to be expected a little bit. Nobody else even notices it in the car, I think I am super sensitive.

See how the jackstand run up goes and you may need to do it with tires on to see if its in that part of the rearend.

Some of the old school shops had spin up machines for the frontend to help identify front end vibrations but I think most of them are long gone.

Good luck getting this sorted out. Car looks bitchin by the way and always good to catch up.

Sean
Click to expand...

Help me. Mine doesn't smooth out until I hit 80...
 
Ill post more on the problem tomorrow but we found the culprit and have some ideas on how to fix it. Vibration was very present with the tires off the car and it all makes since now with what I found when I tore the tranny down in the first place
 
I'm pretty much pissed. Tail shaft bushing walked forward in 300 miles. I was able to use some tig rod and get it about halfway back, I'm grabbing a special tool tomorrow and have a new bushing on order. I'll peen it a little and see if i can fold a lip on the bushing just a little like a velocity stack, along with glueing the thing in
 
How can it walk forward that quick? Something else amiss or is the bushing tired?

Can that bushing be replaced without pulling the trans apart? Curious as I gotta do that on the T5 in the 140.
 
I bet it got compressed while my shaft was bent and it's not a tight enough fit anymore and the granny guy overlooked it. Yes you can remove it in the car with a special puller

So combine the loose bushing with a driveshaft that is slightly out of balance maybe?

I'm getting my 3 ujoint drive hafar balanced as we speak so it may go back in too. Well see
 
I've been very curious on the bushing in mine if that's causing the vibration so I'm definitely curious to see how yours pans out. Still contemplating going 2-piece but with a brand new $350 alum shaft in there now it's a bit more cash than I wanna drop right now. I've also found mine changes a little depending on angles, which makes me wonder more on bushing and different loading on it.
 
nathaninwa said:
I'm going to jack stand the car today and spin it up with out tires in and see/feel it up

It was aligned just this may.
Click to expand...

What I was gonna say - Lift the car, secure it - have someone run through the gears to 100mph (Maybe don't stand infont of it or go directly underneath) and start to watch and see where the vibration starts. I'm sure if you can feel it on your ass you'll be able to see it in the air.
 
Well a small update.

Volvo. I have the drive shaft just about mocked up. From another thread I build a pretty neat midship setup and the new rear shaft will now be an alum pc with 930 cv joints good for 900whp Other than that, just been driving almost everyday

On the Datsun front. I got the floor in the kitchen, so I negotiated putting the engine in before I trimmed it out. Well I may have taken advantage of that and started on the front suspension first! Im going to use Volvo 240 strut tubes and weld them to the S30 (240Z) spindles using the short Saab 900 strut with the standard coil over sleeve setup.

Once all them parts get here Ill do the conversion then get the engine in.

 
Got the Z struts cut. There a little smaller than the volvo setup but the nice thing about the billy strut is it narrows a little at the bottom which fits perfect. Now I'll bore the volvo strut to over the top of the Z section weld it then sleeve it. Should be a perfect fit.

And I got the drive line tacked together and ready to ship out. I'll call them tomorrow to get it all arranged



 
VQ said:
As I'm on the other side of the world, pics now?
Click to expand...

Ill need to run through my phone and upload pics of the stuff I did. I ened up swapping over a 960 core support and fenders, doing the bumper modification with V70 lower and shaved all the trim off the car. I upgraded intercoolers from a CX racing unit to a ETS 4 inch core and actually gained spool and much better air temps

On the 240 progress. Drivers coilsetup is all mocked and installed I need to make some camber plates and once I do the tire will be flush. That's a 17x9.5 with a 275/40 tire that I got from Hackster. Next step is to get the 315/35 tires to fit outback. I either need to flare a bit or tub a little. Havent decided yet

But the struts went together beautiful S30 spindles, Volvo 240 tubes, Saab struts and QA1 coilover setup









 
Why'd you do that when you can easily use MR2 or Rabbit struts in the Z if you wanted shorter ones?

What are you doing for the 5 lug conversion?
 
From some reading the Saab runs a larger piston than the struts that fit the z spindle. And the z spindle is 2 inches exactly and most of the coilover sleeves are 2-1/16

And I had the volvo stuff anyways so it was about the same work

Im using 300zx hubs. They bolt right onto the Z spindle
 
Using the 300zx rear stubs too?

I find this funny because back in the day, it was easy as hell to buy coilover sleeves for 240z struts (2in ID sleeves being so common), so much so that 280z guys would buy them and swap them in, even though 280z struts were made thicker from the factory for more strength.
 
I should get some pics uploaded. I have the front all mocked up and on it's new shoes

I'm a little gimped up but hoping to work on manifolds this weekend and possibly get the Datsun motor out and the LS in

The rear is getting a 35 spline 9 inch, so once the motor Gos in I'll get all that out. I didn't need to flare the front so I need to tub the rear about 3 inches

And i ordered a 10 point chromo cage today, good to 8.50's
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top