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Old 02-11-2021, 11:54 AM   #1
jtbechtold
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Default Terminal 11 Location on K jet

Hello, I have been searching for a while to find exactly where I can tap into terminal 11 on my 1982 242glt. I have added and intercooler, 3" open exhaust with 3" cat, and I am adding a pressure switch to turn on CIS at higher boost. Is it the silver or the black box below? if it is the black box below the terminal 11 is not a white wire as described. The Silver Ecu box I don't see how i could tap a wire in.
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Old 02-11-2021, 01:23 PM   #2
bobxyz
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I think only the later turbo k-jet cars had the extra enrichment pin 11 -
http://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0021

I'm not sure where I found these, but the '82 and '85 wiring greenbooks show the boxes and pinouts. You'll need to do some searching to find a copy (https://ozvolvo.org/archive/ has a slightly different version of the 85, but not the 82).
TP30414-1 1982 240 260 Wiring Diagrams.pdf
TP30808-1 1985 240 260 Wiring Diagrams.pdf
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Old 02-11-2021, 01:52 PM   #3
RvolvoR
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Originally Posted by jtbechtold View Post
Hello, I have been searching for a while to find exactly where I can tap into terminal 11 on my 1982 242glt. I have added and intercooler, 3" open exhaust with 3" cat, and I am adding a pressure switch to turn on CIS at higher boost. Is it the silver or the black box below? if it is the black box below the terminal 11 is not a white wire as described. The Silver Ecu box I don't see how i could tap a wire in.

The t11 trick isn't needed. Just shim up the fuel distributor and drill out the timing stop on the ignition distributor. I have had cars running at 20-25 psi like this just fine.
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Old 02-11-2021, 02:06 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
The t11 trick isn't needed. Just shim up the fuel distributor and drill out the timing stop on the ignition distributor. I have had cars running at 20-25 psi like this just fine.
I would agree with that. I daily drive a 1982 244 Turbo @ 15psi. (shimmed fuel distributor)

The car has the stock Kjet fuel system. For me timing is a bigger issue than fuel..
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Old 02-11-2021, 02:11 PM   #5
dl242gt
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On an 82 terminal 11 isn't wired. The lambda controller box is either black or silver depending on the unit in use. Mine was black. It's the larger of the two boxes in the kick panel. The smaller plastic black box is for the Constant Idle System. Remove the contact from another ecu connector with a pigtail of wire so you can connect it to terminal 11.

I would just grind the stop piece so the distributor can make a bit more retard under boost. If you grind away the stop entirely you have too much timing retard and the car will run like crap under max boost.

I don't know what boost you plan to run. But I agree with the other posts that generally you don't need the terminal 11 trick. Just raise the system pressure a bit as suggested.
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Last edited by dl242gt; 02-11-2021 at 02:13 PM.. Reason: add comment
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Old 02-12-2021, 04:04 PM   #6
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I would just grind the stop piece so the distributor can make a bit more retard under boost. If you grind away the stop entirely you have too much timing retard and the car will run like crap under max boost.
I tried a number of variations on this back in my K-Jet days. Yes, you can increase the total amount of retard this way, but it doesn't work well at all. After a lot of testing, I found the design of the retard mechanism makes it go to full retard by about 6 to 7 psi boost. The Greenbook says this retard amount is 3 to 7 degrees. My testing showed about 6 degrees on several stock distributors.

Grinding to increase retard to 10 degrees, for instance, does not change when that retard max's out. Now you have a distributor that retards a full 10 degrees at 6 to 7 psi boost. I could not create a way for retard to ramp up more gradually over the full 14 psi range I was seeking. This created poor performance.
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Old 02-12-2021, 04:32 PM   #7
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Well said Dave. I experienced bad driving characteristics when a I removed the stop completely. So, I put a stock distributor back in. I suggested the grinding so they might not have too much boost retard and experience the poor driving experience I did.
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Old 02-12-2021, 07:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Well said Dave. I experienced bad driving characteristics when a I removed the stop completely. So, I put a stock distributor back in. I suggested the grinding so they might not have too much boost retard and experience the poor driving experience I did.
If anyone else came up with a method we didn't think of, I'd like to hear. I solved mine by eventually going with standalone EMS.
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Old 02-22-2021, 04:14 AM   #9
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If anyone else came up with a method we didn't think of, I'd like to hear. I solved mine by eventually going with standalone EMS.
Dave
Back when I had my 244 turbo, I drilled out the factory stop on mine and I made an adjustable stop. I want to say I slotted the hole where the stop used to sit, and made an adjustable stop from a small bolt and nut... but it's been too long. In my case I was only running 13psi and really didn't need any more ign. retard.

The other thought I had running around my brain was something along the lines of a small restrictor in the vac line going to the dizzy can, so it pulls timing more progressively than all the way out at 5psi or whatever. But, that would affect the vac advance too, so not 100% optimal.

I did just plop a low mileage B21FT into my '78 245, so I'll be messing with this stuff again soon. I'm running a B21F dizzy to match my B cam, but I might just file the stop a bit this time instead of going all-out.
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Old 02-24-2021, 07:32 AM   #10
jtbechtold
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
The t11 trick isn't needed. Just shim up the fuel distributor and drill out the timing stop on the ignition distributor. I have had cars running at 20-25 psi like this just fine.
any good places to look on how to shim distributor? I have read after posting this that this is the way to go. Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2021, 07:36 AM   #11
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Thanks for all of the info! I am Just trying to run a solid 15psi eventually. if not I can go for less. At some point I will probably go megasquirt
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Old 02-24-2021, 07:38 AM   #12
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I have also never even used my timing light on this car. haven't actually had to use one on any car believe it or not. lol
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Old 02-24-2021, 09:56 PM   #13
dl242gt
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The layout of the fuel pressure regulator inside the fuel distributor is in a Haynes or Bentley manual. I'm sure someone online has info. Look up Kjetronic fuel pressure regulator. You can buy a kit of shims for the fuel distributor and you'll want to raise the fuel pressure 5-10psi. A kjetronic fuel pressure tester will help you check your work.

Get that timing light out and use it to learn how to test ignition timing. It's a good skill.
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