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122s wheel sizes (what fits?)

What is the required bore hole diameter? My ever wandering wheel lust has me now looking at some Mustang Steelies. 15 X 6 with 12mm ET. Trying to keep offset as close as possible to stock. I believe 12mm is very close to the offset used on the 5.5" wide 122GT wheels.

wvi-54-5712044.jpg


The problem is they only have 2.75" hub clearance. Stock wheels measured 2.858 but the wheel studs prevented me from getting an actual hub measurement.
 
What is the required bore hole diameter? My ever wandering wheel lust has me now looking at some Mustang Steelies. 15 X 6 with 12mm ET. Trying to keep offset as close as possible to stock. I believe 12mm is very close to the offset used on the 5.5" wide 122GT wheels.

wvi-54-5712044.jpg


The problem is they only have 2.75" hub clearance. Stock wheels measured 2.858 but the wheel studs prevented me from getting an actual hub measurement.

I'm pretty sure that the hub bore is 73mm or 2.87"
 
Yea those old steel style wheels are heavy. But hey if your gonna supercharge the amazon it won't slow ya down too much. Haha
 
Have a single 16x7 Torq thrust D, ET 35 with an old 205/55 winter tire. Test fit. Not quite sure how I feel. Things fit with an 8mm spacer with a bit of rubbing on the IPD sways up front. Needs a 1" spacer

IMAG0878_zpsocgv9dnp.jpg


Looks a little better on the back, no spacer. Again a 1" spacer would be nice. A 20mm spacer would be ideal but would be spendy/hard to find.

IMAG0879_zpszpmfmn18.jpg


A 17" might look better but not sure that is the direction I want to go. It all kind of makes me want to take the car lower.

How does flipping the front ball joint affect handling?
 
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bringing this back.

About to get the hubs redrilled on our 122s to fit a set of Epsilons we have.

They are 15x8 et10. Thinking this should be about spot on with a 195/65/15. Anyone run something close to this before?

Here is a quick PS I did for ****sss and giggles.

11038475_10155451836385324_3335320989344510408_n.jpg
 
bringing this back.

About to get the hubs redrilled on our 122s to fit a set of Epsilons we have.

They are 15x8 et10. Thinking this should be about spot on with a 195/65/15. Anyone run something close to this before?

Here is a quick PS I did for ****sss and giggles.

Going to redrill for 4xsomething... cool. You might send a PM to Keith602, he's running a set of 15x8 Works (I think) but closer to et0, so with an extra 2" of width it'd be close-ish
 
How does flipping the front ball joint affect handling?

We added the new radial tires at the same time we flipped the b.j. Rode and handled great.
However the old tires were pretty bad. I had the guy who was doing the alignment flip them. Can't imagine doing that would be bad in anyway?
 
We added the new radial tires at the same time we flipped the b.j. Rode and handled great.
However the old tires were pretty bad. I had the guy who was doing the alignment flip them. Can't imagine doing that would be bad in anyway?

Thinking about it a bit more I guess it would actually raise the roll center, which should be a good thing.
 
Time to bring this thread back. A few years has gone by and I'm looking to change my set up.

Side note* Never buy Yokohama Avid Envigor tires. Complete junk and poor customer service.

I really like the looks of these wheels https://www.americanracing.com/wheel/14461/vn47-vector unfortunately I think I'd like to upgrade to 16x7. I'll be sure to update with what I decide.
 
Never saw this thread until now but I've only been back on TB since last year. I'm sticking with 15 inch wheels for a period look despite the lack of tire choices available. I'll be running normal all seasons for the street, most likely BFGoodrich T/As and Hoosier Speedsters for autocross/DE's.

I'm curently on 15x7 widened steel wheels, haven't measured offset or backspacing since I bought them over 5 years ago but I do run a 205/60/15 tire and have loved them.



I'm moving on to 15x7 AR VN309 Original Torq Thrust with -6mm offset and will be using the same tire size.



At my current ride height I have no rubbing even on heavy compression. I'd like to bring the ride height down about 1/2 inch all around though I do have the rear fender lips well tucked and the lips on the front fenders I opted to grind off about 1/4 instead of rolling.

As suspension geometry was discussed earlier I have left the rear alone but will either be utilizing an adjustable panhard bar or relocating the mounting position in the bracket. I'd also like to go with at least one pair of adjustable trailing arms to correct differential angle as well. As for the front I have removed the forward shims from the subframe to add some caster and I have the upper arms heavily shimmed to achieve just under 2 degrees negative camber. Toe is slightly in. I should note that I'm keeping to a stock steering wheel diameter and have thoroughly overhauled my entire suspension (see my build thread over in restorations).
 
Thanks for the input. Your car looks great on those steelies! Considering 17's now. Really having a hard time with this decision. Wondering if the 17's will give me more room for brake upgrades in the future.
 
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