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Stainless Exhaust studs question, B230FT

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Powder>Paint

New member
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Location
Bay Area CA
So after 450k, the exh mani studs in my 8v head are looking rough off. missing threads, stripped head threads etc. The replacement studs at napa are def dildos, the metallurgy just cant hang in this app, ive tried. Im at the point of replacing all the studs, and i wanted to see if anyone had done a stainless steel stud kit, based on longevity and hardness of fasteners. If so, experiences? pics? price? it seems like the studs in stainless are like 3-5 bucks each, so i want it to be a permanent fix if i do it. To be frank id like to replace every bolt on the motor w stainless, but thats casue i like shiny. :rofl:

this is what im looking at, or something equivalent, allen head not required.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Piece-M8-...ash=item35f276b6c3:g:BJcAAOSwiLdWBg9N&vxp=mtr
 
Got a set too I purchased for a LS motor that I have not used and got some ARP that I got in a deal. They got too be better than some 30 year old studs. Just make sure you use some copper anti-seize .
 
photoman327 said:
Got a set too I purchased for a LS motor that I have not used and got some ARP that I got in a deal. They got too be better than some 30 year old studs. Just make sure you use some copper anti-seize .
Click to expand...

Cool! Thanks for the response. i fully agree on anti sieze. I have to install 6 helicoils on this head today , then i should be ready to install the studs today if i can source them local.... ill take some pics if i get them in. tempted to pull all the intake studs while i have the head off, and replace them too for eye candy and fastener solidarity. lmao.
 
Went to my buddys machine shop today, and he sold me (40) 94mm m8x1.25 stainless studs. Chopped them in half and cleaned/ chased threads, now i have 80 studs and nuts.:rofl: It was kinda one of those take all of them or none at all, so in the name of doing it today i bought. i need to helicoil six of the stud holes, but i see this getting done today.




 
Tuff240 said:
Use BMW copper lock nuts. Those regular flanged jobbers will never stay tight.

I've tried a lot of different lock nuts and these work best by far:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-exhaust-nut-11621711954
Click to expand...

this is good info...Just got the helicoils and studs done. Its probably more bling than the old 450k mill deserves, but i totally like it. Downside, now all my other hardware looks like bull$#!t.:rofl:


What about SS acorns on top of the flange nut? torque down flange nut, then jam nut the acorn as a purty lock?
 
Will the BMW copper locknuts also work for Turbo to exhaust manifold studs, & the down pipe to Turbo studs?
 
I hope you're not planning on using stainless studs with stainless helicoils and stainless nuts. You're going to end up with a mess of galled-together parts.
 
Karl Buchka said:
I hope you're not planning on using stainless studs with stainless helicoils and stainless nuts. You're going to end up with a mess of galled-together parts.
Click to expand...

interesting thoughts... I have not seen a quality SS fastener do this except in uber high heat apps with dissimilar metals. BUt i havent seen everything by a long shot. :)

So far i love them. They seem ultra rigid, w zero flex. Also, going from grade 8 studs to grade 18 makes me feel cool. Now if they peacock when they heat cycle, SS FTW.:cool:
 
Powder>Paint said:
interesting thoughts... I have not seen a quality SS fastener do this except in uber high heat apps with dissimilar metals. BUt i havent seen everything by a long shot. :)

So far i love them. They seem ultra rigid, w zero flex. Also, going from grade 8 studs to grade 18 makes me feel cool. Now if they peacock when they heat cycle, SS FTW.:cool:
Click to expand...

Stainless nut on a stainless stud will gall with normal removal if you don't lubricant and go slow. When I was working with military products design for sea use, the biggest issue on the production floor was galling.

That might not be a issue with those studs, as they could be a different grade. I would still go with a copper lock nut instead.
 
mopar318 said:
Stainless nut on a stainless stud will gall with normal removal if you don't lubricant and go slow. When I was working with military products design for sea use, the biggest issue on the production floor was galling.

That might not be a issue with those studs, as they could be a different grade. I would still go with a copper lock nut instead.
Click to expand...

This is good insight. Metallurgy isnt my strongest point, and it sounds like youve had some firsthand experience. I used a drop of moroso block filler on the outside of the helicoil on install, and also a drop on the studs on install, so those b!t#ces are a perm fixture. I had intended to utilize that copper antisieze arp in uses some apps, but id hate to find out the hard way my eye candy is a stumbling block on turbo swaps.

I think i may chop the rest of these studs down today or tomorrow, and offer them to the community if theres an interest... I looked int SS studs and a set of 8 was like 40 bucks on ebay. I got them for a good price in bulk to do my own thing, so itd be cool to help other members by passing these off as a set for cheap. Only have so many though, and i cant get more cause it was an all or nothing buy, and i bought all. :rofl:
 
Powder>Paint said:
interesting thoughts... I have not seen a quality SS fastener do this except in uber high heat apps with dissimilar metals. BUt i havent seen everything by a long shot. :)

So far i love them. They seem ultra rigid, w zero flex. Also, going from grade 8 studs to grade 18 makes me feel cool. Now if they peacock when they heat cycle, SS FTW.:cool:
Click to expand...

Hello pulled heli-coils!
 
Karl Buchka said:
I hope you're not planning on using stainless studs with stainless helicoils and stainless nuts. You're going to end up with a mess of galled-together parts.
Click to expand...

Just brap 'em off with an impact, snapping the stud in the process. That's the way all the cool kids do it. Make sure you install them dry too!
 
In the boat world stainless steel and aluminum corrode when they are in contact with each other. I doubt it will be an issue in automotive application.
 
I been reading up on stainless with aluminum. Everything I read so far says "you'll be fine if you use antiseize"

I think the bigger issue would be the nuts... coppers are the way to go

in your 4sale thread you mention that you cant get studs the same week... thats false I have ordered studs and copper nuts from HiPerformanceauto and got them in 2 days. And someone else up north



this was a good read ...kind of
http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89

another good read
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Corrosion.pdf
 
Jack said:
I been reading up on stainless with aluminum. Everything I read so far says "you'll be fine if you use antiseize"

I think the bigger issue would be the nuts... coppers are the way to go

in your 4sale thread you mention that you cant get studs the same week... thats false I have ordered studs and copper nuts from HiPerformanceauto and got them in 2 days. And someone else up north



this was a good read ...kind of
http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89

another good read
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Corrosion.pdf
Click to expand...


I agree w this. i put a drop of moroso block filler on each helicoil, then a drop of block filler on each stud when installed. that is a perm fixture if there ever was one. coppper antisieze is the way to go on the torquing of the stainless nuts i think. Im gonna go with it. I am going to the davis meet in april, check out if they are still in action. im not afraid to eat my own dog food on this,I will gladly run exactly what i am offering for sale. like i said, we'll see how they hold up right? I intend to prove these are a legit option.

culberro said:
Just brap 'em off with an impact, snapping the stud in the process. That's the way all the cool kids do it. Make sure you install them dry too!
Click to expand...

Thats dumb.
Im not selling these for a profit just to be clear. Its something i did for my car, and others may want to do the same. If they do, i have the things they need already, w out buying in bulk like i had to. If i was asking anywhere near retail maybe i could see some hate, but cmon. This is done as an attempt to help others w the same problem i had, for way less cost than i paid.
Kitty is blind to haters.



i dont care what anybody says, turbobricks is the best. keep calm and boost on :)
 
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