B230+T5 3k rpm shake

[James M]

Originally Posted by Tfrasca

Anyone know how a T5 trans sound behind a Volvo T5?

I've got pretty terrible driveshaft angles (IPD torque rods, soon to be replaced with BNE) and it sounds better behind my whiteblock then my redblock, but the vibration is terrible. Building a driveshaft now that's the correct length, the yoshifab adapter is too short to fully seat the slip yoke with my motor/ transmission placement.

Ranger dampener looks promising, although with my transmission cross member built the way is it the current one bairly fits. Unless I missed it I don't think I saw measurements here?

[smoothdurban]

Originally Posted by James M

I've got pretty terrible driveshaft angles (IPD torque rods, soon to be replaced with BNE) and it sounds better behind my whiteblock then my redblock, but the vibration is terrible. Building a driveshaft now that's the correct length, the yoshifab adapter is too short to fully seat the slip yoke with my motor/ transmission placement.

Ranger dampener looks promising, although with my transmission cross member built the way is it the current one bairly fits. Unless I missed it I don't think I saw measurements here?

No measurements on my end. I am using the Josh's cross member which is adjustable in 3 directions.

[Stiggy Pop]

honestly my transmission is really fairly quiet. It's the ****box volvo it's attached too that vibrates at 3k rpm

[carver]

Swapped in a 47" Coleman Racing 3" aluminum HDC driveshaft with the Ranger yoke today. Had the entire assembly balanced at NW Drivelines. No gear noise on downshift, no 3K vibration, I think I can live with this...

[ZVOLV]

Watch some youtube videos on how to make the necessary measurements on your driveline components to avoid vibrations.

I have taken propshaft and NVH classes and really enjoy getting better at it.


You gotta MEASURE THE WORKING ANGLE OF THE U-JOINTS, then they should be within 1 degree of each other.

[carver]

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

Watch some youtube videos on how to make the necessary measurements on your driveline components to avoid vibrations.

Yeah, a must really. I used the Tremec Phone App to check things and was in spec.

[DavePolyakov]

I'm going to NW drivelines later this week to get my stock front driveshaft modified and my Ranger yoke installed with u joint. I plan on using a modified front shaft with the stock carrier bearing and the stock rear driveshaft. Will I need to remove my stock rear shaft so they can balance the whole unit or do they just need to balance the front driveshaft if I'm using the stock rear shaft? I just measure from the tip of the yoke when moved 3/4-1inch outward to the center of the carrier bearing correct? I only want to get one driveshaft and do it right, with no vibrations the first time.

[VB242]

Originally Posted by DavePolyakov

I'm going to NW drivelines later this week to get my stock front driveshaft modified and my Ranger yoke installed with u joint. I plan on using a modified front shaft with the stock carrier bearing and the stock rear driveshaft. Will I need to remove my stock rear shaft so they can balance the whole unit or do they just need to balance the front driveshaft if I'm using the stock rear shaft? I just measure from the tip of the yoke when moved 3/4-1inch outward to the center of the carrier bearing correct? I only want to get one driveshaft and do it right, with no vibrations the first time.

I would take the whole thing but my driveshaft shop didn't have right adapter to hook up to the Volvo end and only balanced the front half.

[gsellstr]

They will want the whole driveshaft.

Also, I would swap that carrier bearing out for the big spicer one that's been talked about around here. It will provide a LOT more stability since you're running 2 slip yokes. VB242 posted about it a while back, I went that route on my 140 as well, SO much more stable than the stock setup, comparably priced, just requires about 5 minutes to trim the corners to be round.

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

Watch some youtube videos on how to make the necessary measurements on your driveline components to avoid vibrations.

I have taken propshaft and NVH classes and really enjoy getting better at it.


You gotta MEASURE THE WORKING ANGLE OF THE U-JOINTS, then they should be within 1 degree of each other.

gonna get your scope out to figure those angles out? I think everybody has already been through that a few times.

[ZVOLV]

Actually, I can use the Picoscope, an accelerometer mounted to the driver seat rail, and pico NVH software connected to the DLC to diagnose driveline and engine vibrations. You enter tire size, rear axle ratio, engine cylinders and it gets a RPM and vehicle speed data from the DLC.

Go for a drive and the software shows you the different vibration frequencies and the order of the vibration. First order, second order, etc. It also does the math and charts whether it's an engine, tire or propshaft vibration.

I got the scope hooked up right now for parasitic battery drain testing.

[Stiggy Pop]

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

Actually, I can use the Picoscope, an accelerometer mounted to the driver seat rail, and pico NVH software connected to the DLC to diagnose driveline and engine vibrations. You enter tire size, rear axle ratio, engine cylinders and it gets a RPM and vehicle speed data from the DLC.

Go for a drive and the software shows you the different vibration frequencies and the order of the vibration. First order, second order, etc. It also does the math and charts whether it's an engine, tire or propshaft vibration.

I got the scope hooked up right now for parasitic battery drain testing.

honestly a hilarious image to me, someone getting into a 40 year old ****box with all this instrumentation. "mmm yes see here, the problem is this is an economy car from 1975"

[holtzboy]

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

Actually, I can use the Picoscope, an accelerometer mounted to the driver seat rail, and pico NVH software connected to the DLC to diagnose driveline and engine vibrations. You enter tire size, rear axle ratio, engine cylinders and it gets a RPM and vehicle speed data from the DLC.

Go for a drive and the software shows you the different vibration frequencies and the order of the vibration. First order, second order, etc. It also does the math and charts whether it's an engine, tire or propshaft vibration.

I got the scope hooked up right now for parasitic battery drain testing.

All in favor to vote ZVOLV as the T5 whisperer say yea.

[DavePolyakov]

I'm not quite familiar with a 240 carrier setup, mine will be in a 740. I could be wrong but I don't think I'll even need to modify make it round? The OE 740 mount looks very similar. If I go this route I'll have to return my stock support to IPD . . . for the second time

Originally Posted by gsellstr

They will want the whole driveshaft.

Also, I would swap that carrier bearing out for the big spicer one that's been talked about around here. It will provide a LOT more stability since you're running 2 slip yokes. VB242 posted about it a while back, I went that route on my 140 as well, SO much more stable than the stock setup, comparably priced, just requires about 5 minutes to trim the corners to be round.

[carver]

Originally Posted by DavePolyakov

I'm not quite familiar with a 240 carrier setup, mine will be in a 740. I could be wrong but I don't think I'll even need to modify make it round? The OE 740 mount looks very similar. If I go this route I'll have to return my stock support to IPD . . . for the second time

Yoshifab sells a poly filled 740 bearing mount, and by that I mean he fills the voids with melted poly which hardens. It's an aftermarket URO mount, seems a lot stiffer than stock but I have no experience with it.

[gsellstr]

Originally Posted by DavePolyakov

I'm not quite familiar with a 240 carrier setup, mine will be in a 740. I could be wrong but I don't think I'll even need to modify make it round? The OE 740 mount looks very similar. If I go this route I'll have to return my stock support to IPD . . . for the second time

I think that Spicer mount that works in the 240's with trimming might work in a 7 as well, just the mounting is a little different. It might just need a different set of holes drilled in the mounting plate. An interesting though, I haven't played with it, but yeah, it could be possible. It's definitely a LOT better than the stock 7 mount as well, but it still has some room to flex, allowing for some NVH dissipation, where a filled mount wouldn't.


If you do go down that road, please do post up what you find! While my mount isn't in bad shape now, as the power levels and abuse continue, they don't last a long time, nor do AW71 mounts. lol

[carver]

Fixed to include link to post...

Originally Posted by gsellstr

I think that Spicer mount that works in the 240's with trimming might work in a 7 as well, just the mounting is a little different. It might just need a different set of holes drilled in the mounting plate. An interesting though, I haven't played with it, but yeah, it could be possible. It's definitely a LOT better than the stock 7 mount as well, but it still has some room to flex, allowing for some NVH dissipation, where a filled mount wouldn't.

If you do go down that road, please do post up what you find! While my mount isn't in bad shape now, as the power levels and abuse continue, they don't last a long time, nor do AW71 mounts. lol

[Benjam83]

Originally Posted by gsellstr

I think that Spicer mount that works in the 240's with trimming might work in a 7 as well, just the mounting is a little different. It might just need a different set of holes drilled in the mounting plate. An interesting though, I haven't played with it, but yeah, it could be possible. It's definitely a LOT better than the stock 7 mount as well, but it still has some room to flex, allowing for some NVH dissipation, where a filled mount wouldn't.


If you do go down that road, please do post up what you find! While my mount isn't in bad shape now, as the power levels and abuse continue, they don't last a long time, nor do AW71 mounts. lol

I went with the Spicer mount in my swap (240)....Works great. They're decently cheap, so I'd just pick one up to see if it can be made to work in your 7xx.

[gsellstr]

Except that I don't plan to drop my driveshaft anytime soon, otherwise I would. But yeah, I think it was around $50 when I bought the one for the 140, not much different than a decent brand bearing and surround, so if it holds up longer, definitely worth it.

[carver]

So what's the consensus about driveline angles with the two piece and Ranger yoke? It drops the trans a lot lower than what you'd see with the stock setup because of clearance needed. I'm thinking you'd need to drop the center support bearing to be in spec? As a side note, don't waste your time with that Yoshi poly filled 740/940 support bearing mount. Installed it on a two piece I had laying about and the poly separated on install. He makes a lot of great stuff, don't get me wrong but this one is questionable.

[Harlard]

I filled one with window weld and it became unbearable...

[DavePolyakov]

I was about to buy it, now I guess I'll go with the spicer. With a diameter of 1.77 it will fit on a two-inch diameter 740 driveline, right? I measured the ID of my bearing and it also reads 1.77. Does the spicer have the bearing integrated into the unit, unlike the stock design of the 740 where you need to install the housing onto the bearing?

Originally Posted by carver

So what's the consensus about driveline angles with the two piece and Ranger yoke? It drops the trans a lot lower than what you'd see with the stock setup because of clearance needed. I'm thinking you'd need to drop the center support bearing to be in spec? As a side note, don't waste your time with that Yoshi poly filled 740/940 support bearing mount. Installed it on a two piece I had laying about and the poly separated on install. He makes a lot of great stuff, don't get me wrong but this one is questionable.

[gsellstr]

The spicer is indeed an integrated bearing/carrier setup. It did press onto the stock 240 driveline in my 140, which I believe is the same ID as the 7/9 shaft.

I've noticed the funky angles in the 140 using a 2pc as well, and dropping the trans it seems would add to that. I'm considering going back to a 1pc as well because of that, since the noise didn't change between the two setups.

[oldschoolvolvo]

I installed one of the large slip yoke dampers and it also cured the decel rattle (1pc driveshaft).
https://forums.tbforums.com/showpost...&postcount=242

[gsellstr]

Ok, that just made my day...1310's means it's a drop-in for many of us, don't need the bastard joint.

Thanks!