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Those who use lug centric wheel adapters, what is your experience with them?

89_740Turbo

New member
Joined
Apr 10, 2018
Location
Central New Jersey
Hello! A question to those of you who use lug centric wheel adapters to fit aftermarket wheels on your Volvo.

What is your experience with them? Have you had any issues with fitment, wheel rattling/shaking or anything else? I am reading conflicting information online.

Some say lug centric adapters are OK to use if properly mounted and torqued. Others say lug centric wheel adapters are not good whatsoever. The reason I am asking is because I picked up a set of super mint Riken Mesh wheels off a Corvette. 16x9.5

Qs1DD68.png



My friend gave me a pair of wheel adapters for the rear but I need a pair for the front. I wanted to throw the wheels on for a car show in June. They sell adapters online but the center bore isn't hub centric, so if I used them they'd just be held on by the lugs.


Any experience?
 
It’s no big deal at all
Use the right lugs and don’t worry about it

For reference see any of the 3 million YouTube videos on this topic
Chevy is hubcebtric and Toyota is hubcebtric... neither of their wheels fall off


Ps do me a favor and quit with your stupid “mint, fittment”
 
It?s no big deal at all
Use the right lugs and don?t worry about it

For reference see any of the 3 million YouTube videos on this topic
Chevy is hubcebtric and Toyota is hubcebtric... neither of their wheels fall off


Ps do me a favor and quit with your stupid ?mint, fittment?

M I N T F I T T M E N T :rofl:
 
Ideally buy an adapter with a centerbore of 65.1mm to mount on a 240, that way the adapter is centered on the hub.

Are those wheels not 70.2mm centerbore for GM applications? If they are, then you should definitely buy adapters that have a lip on them, to center the wheel.

If the wheels were not made to go on a hubcentric vehicle, or the lug holes are not your standard taper, then you may not have a choice other than to use adapters that don't have a lip that fits precisely in the wheel. If that's the case, you need to tighten the wheel while it's in the air, in a star pattern, to center the wheel.

When using flat wheel adapters with no lip on them, I align one stud at 12 o'clock and then snug down the two lugnuts at the 10 and 2 positions first. Then the other three. There's only so much you can do by hand to tighten the lugnuts on the front with the wheel in the air, but you want to try and get them all hand tight so the wheel doesn't shift when you lower the vehicle. Assuming tapered lug seats, just getting the lugnuts hand tightened will do.

In my experience, there was often a slight vibration at a given speeed on the highway. Maybe it vibrates at 63mph, but at 61 or 66mph it's smooth. To me, it's worth a few extra dollars to buy adapters with a lip that will ensure the wheel is centered every time.

I haven't gone 4 wheels off the ground yet, but 100% weight transfer onto two wheels, using lug-centric wheels mounted to adapters. These wheels have a nearly 3" centerbore and are not hubcentric. The lugnuts are long shank with a washer, so not a tapered seat. I've not had any issues with these. I used hub/wheel centric adapters with the previous (smaller) race tires and never had a problem (other than breaking a few studs on removal of a wheel, due to thread galling + heat I think).

152754784.jpg
 
Ideally buy an adapter with a centerbore of 65.1mm to mount on a 240, that way the adapter is centered on the hub.

Are those wheels not 70.2mm centerbore for GM applications? If they are, then you should definitely buy adapters that have a lip on them, to center the wheel.

If the wheels were not made to go on a hubcentric vehicle, or the lug holes are not your standard taper, then you may not have a choice other than to use adapters that don't have a lip that fits precisely in the wheel. If that's the case, you need to tighten the wheel while it's in the air, in a star pattern, to center the wheel.

When using flat wheel adapters with no lip on them, I align one stud at 12 o'clock and then snug down the two lugnuts at the 10 and 2 positions first. Then the other three. There's only so much you can do by hand to tighten the lugnuts on the front with the wheel in the air, but you want to try and get them all hand tight so the wheel doesn't shift when you lower the vehicle. Assuming tapered lug seats, just getting the lugnuts hand tightened will do.

In my experience, there was often a slight vibration at a given speeed on the highway. Maybe it vibrates at 63mph, but at 61 or 66mph it's smooth. To me, it's worth a few extra dollars to buy adapters with a lip that will ensure the wheel is centered every time.

I haven't gone 4 wheels off the ground yet, but 100% weight transfer onto two wheels, using lug-centric wheels mounted to adapters. These wheels have a nearly 3" centerbore and are not hubcentric. The lugnuts are long shank with a washer, so not a tapered seat. I've not had any issues with these. I used hub/wheel centric adapters with the previous (smaller) race tires and never had a problem (other than breaking a few studs on removal of a wheel, due to thread galling + heat I think).

152754784.jpg

Thank you for taking the time to respond.

All of my adapters have a 65.1mm center bore to fit snug over the wheel hub. I had a very hard time online finding the center bore of Rikens, but I know they were factory on a C4 Vette, which would mean they have a center bore of either 70.2 like you mentioned or 70.3.

From what I was able to gather online, these were not hub centric because GM wanted these to be able to fit on a variety of their vehicles. This would lead me to believe it seeing as, when you flip the wheel over, there are deep pockets for the adapter studs to slide into, making the ability to put them on the car easy.

Your response helps put me at ease. Thank you
 
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