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Is this '94 960 a good deal?

looks good, the nivomats are blown. They are pretty expensive to replace but are awesome when they work. I think $400 for a pair or something
 
Great looking car. I can't say that I have ever seen a early red 960. You should check the timing belt interval service for that year of 960.
 
The Nivomats are not necessarily blown. They settle if the car isn't driven for awhile. They pump back up as you go over bumps. If they don't pump up, they are shot. That car has a good Autocheck report. The mileage looks legit. The price is about what you should expect for a 92-94 960.
 
What's involved in swapping to a redblock/turbo/AW71 for those? Not looking for a tome but a simple overview would be great.
 
What's involved in swapping to a redblock/turbo/AW71 for those? Not looking for a tome but a simple overview would be great.


Why would you do that? The I6 is just as reliable when taken care of, gets the same fuel economy, and is infinitely smoother.
 
The Nivomats are not necessarily blown. They settle if the car isn't driven for awhile. They pump back up as you go over bumps. If they don't pump up, they are shot.
Forgot about that. I retract my previous statement.

1994 - 965 Should have the old axle, no Multilink. So the Nivomats are easy to have replaced by normal shocks.

/Bj?rn

This is a 960 though (note long hood). I was under the impression that all 7/960 series cars had independent multi-link in the rear along with the long hood, and redesigned firewall & dash.

Roy?
 
This is a 960 though (note long hood). I was under the impression that all 7/960 series cars had independent multi-link in the rear along with the long hood, and redesigned firewall & dash.

Roy?

Nope, only sedans had multilink 88-94. Wagons didn't get multilink until facelift and leaf spring multilink
 
yup, my 940 does this.

Nice car. I would have gladly bought that instead of the 97 855 T5 I just bought for the same price in similar condition last week.

I had a 94 965 in Emerald green, did the Nivo swap to Bil's and std coils. I regretted it, back end was floaty, and took out a perfectly good set of Nivo's. IMHO, if the Nivo's work, don't mess with them. FYI, '94 960 wagon Nivo's are huge, not $400, but $700.

With such low milage, I was surprised to see it listed at $2600 (Kelley Blue book of about $3900 from a dealer). Do you think there could be something big wrong with it?

Yeah, wrong with KBB. Their appraisal process is antiquated, flawed, and deliberately inflates used car prices from dealers, as well as private sellers. I would say their price points are $1000-$2000 over the national average in all markets. If you read the fine print, a dealer car is automatically given a 'select' and 'outstanding' condition by default, and no other choice offered. They assume the car is in every way perfect, and nothing wrong cosmetically or mechanically, and can support a Dealer pre-owned status with 1 yr or 10k mile warranty.

If you really want to know the true or at least more accurate pricing, use Edmunds or NADA. KBB sucks and they are deliberately driving up used car prices in all markets across the board. They get paid to give sellers a better mark-up.

At least this dealer is being honest, and the price looks fair from afar without knowing what is actually wrong with the car.
 
Just look over the timing belt, and replace it if there's no record of it having been done. I see nice looking 960's in the JY with nothing wrong besides a broken t-belt.

And penishood(tm) the I6!
 
Just look over the timing belt, and replace it if there's no record of it having been done. I see nice looking 960's in the JY with nothing wrong besides a broken t-belt.

And penishood(tm) the I6!

I'll take that a step further. If you buy the car, immediately remove the timing belt and check all the critical components. Quite often the timing belt gets replaced on the car without regard to the tensioner roller or idler roller. If either of those fail, you're doing a complete top end job. I've seen almost new timing belts on rollers that are ready to self destruct too many times already. While you are at it, put in a new timing belt so you don't have to go back in for one 10K miles later. They are cheap insurance.
 
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