b230ft in 145i Build thread

VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLbq5Tw6fes

love the vid !!!! got more? sounds like ya went lean at the end of the 1/4 mile? any whoo ... all of ya keep the 140 stuff coming LOVE IT!

Man, I couldn't handle the 165s in the dry with my 80whp 142... I have no idea how you drive around on them regularly! The car is SOOO hampered by them. I'd hate having to go that slow around turns.

Ok so i did not put the u-joint failure in here as its really not a build thread thing you can find it here if you want to see the damage.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=204480

But it did bring about this build solution.





Keep the power from punching a hole in my butt.

Also picture of the X member out. and the arms drying with some under coating/sound proofing paint. when i did the whole front end in poly.





Also a check on the real close tolerance BMW squerters when the pan was off after 3000 miles. The new flanged oil line is holding now too! Things are looking good in there.Hope to never see it again.

Here is a Dale's pulley next to a stock b230 pulley.





You can see how the stock b230 pulley rubbed a knife edge on the outer ring while rubbing on the IPD sway bar. The IPD bar is just big enough to catch it.





Here is the new pulley in. I don't think it will be rubbing any more. I had to get this installed for the NW poker run. Hwy 30 is very curvy.



Installing MSD's Street fire box. Its mounted on rubber test tube stoppers to take the shock out of the unit and allow air under it.



Had to grind the screw heads off that were sticking out the bottom of the wheel well. Took a paint striping brush to them as well so i could solder the ends so they don't back out of the thin metal.



A bit of flux and pipe solder and they aint coming back out now!



Don't forget to tar and feather what protective coating you removed. Keep the rust away people!



To make the MSD work you need to use the trigger wire off the Volvo power stage.




Use the thick red/white wire to the trigger wire on your ignish box. Its the one soldered and shrink tubed in this photo(s).





Taped and threaded the fire wall for the msd coil. Fig id put it in the volvo stock location.



More to come. I only have 9 days to get it done for the poker run. Poker run link http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=204212

Ok so tested the MSD box today. OMG all my idle problems caused by rich idle mix and bad Volvo coil are gone. So happy! Tomarrow have to bleed breaks and take her out for the fun. NOTE on the box. If you battery drops below 10v during start the box wont work so make sure ya keep a good charge on the batt or be stranded.

So i just got done tracing a knock noise down to my timing belt cover. Seems that the ubber small belt i had to put on to fit the under drive pulley and the alternator bounces on the timing marks that stick out on the bottom of the belt cover.

Scared the crap out of me at first. only happens at real low idle of 750 rpm..... and it was at only one stroke. it did not have the frequency of a rattle you hear when all cylinders fire but rather the knock sound you here when 1 rod is bad but way duller... ya know whit out that metal sound.

Glad i found it and it was not the end of a motor. Man them noises freak ya out at first. well i don't need to see the retarded side of the timing mark any way so i just ground it down -2 degrees on the plastic and the noise is gone until i kill the ignish then you only hear it slap once. Good enough.

well back to the brakes.

This thing is awesome!

Love the build.. keep 'er coming!

Just throwing this out there. If you have a 140 and a b230 or b230ft and want to put it in a 140 but don't feel up to it Im happy to offer my services if the price is right. Just PM me with what your want and Ill work up a quote.

I would love the job but i recommend you do it yourself. Most shops wont touch a custom job if it has any problems because they cant fallow a book. I'm sure if you do find a shop to do the work they will charge out the ass.

What I suggest is you just rent my garage. Ill let you use all my tools and fabing stuff and i can be there for advice while you build it. $350 a month. you get a key to the back shop door that has access to the garage, and a Volvo to look at for reference and you can pick my brain over beer every night. If you were diligent im sure you could finish it in a month. If this is the case ill take the b20 or what ever is left off the 140 as payment if it runs before it came out. Or 1/2 of payment if it did not run before it came out. I have 2 neighbors that weld so you only have to walk 2/3 houses down to have welding work done.

Tools, I have air tools ----> ( grinders / hammers / chisels / ratchets / grease gun / some others too). This makes the job go quick. Every tool i needed to do the job is in the shop minus welding.

If you have no shop and just want to do a break job or change your oil, basically any job that only takes the garage up for a night, then its a 6 pack of beer. Let me know i live in SE Portland around 122nd and division.
let me know.

meeki007 said:

problem with this setup is that my engine temps get low! like 160 with it up next to the fan like that. only when its 30 ish and im doing 55 to 65 mph. I plan on moving to Fairbanks Alaska in 2 years or so. might have to delete it when i get up there. Something who knows.

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cardboard is your friend. if you ever swing down towards anchorageish hit me up!

meeki007 said:

If you have no shop and just want to do a break job or change your oil, basically any job that only takes the garage up for a night, then its a 6 pack of beer. Let me know i live in SE Portland around 122nd and division.
let me know.

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Holy crap I wish I'd of seen this when I had to change my oil this summer in portland. I was staying on 94th and glisan! Did I by chance see you in a blue 142 at trader joes/other random spots in pdx?

no never a blue 142. I had one that did not run sat for years before i bought it and striped it.

The 145 is down ATM. Still trying to find time to finish Mega Squertin it .

Well, the mega squert conversion is almost done, Took the time to install power door locks and a paging alarm system. So for the second time my throttle cable has broke. Its rather hard to come up with something that will work so i broke down and started welding.

Figured the linkage setup that came with it will be a better option than cable. Here is what i have come up with.

so mega squirt has been on hold after my finger went through the drivers door when i was changing out window seals.

Found some rust and went cutting till i had the worst of it out.

As you can see in this photo i have cut out the first ply of the door metal. The second part back there i kinda need so ill have to rust treat it.



here is a pic of the after rust treatment. Still have to grind a little off as you can see.



cut and ground down a piece of metal to fit in the hole.



polished it up, rdy for welding.



after welding and body filler. Looks ruff but its smooth.



Used some etching paint. Good for putting down on metal and body filler to seal it in protect from moisture. Primer goes on tomorrow.

GOT BONDO?

So every time i get 1 thing done on the gall another problim springs up.

So I'm taking care of the doors. Window seals rotten so bad the windows make so much noise taping on metal in the frame sometimes i cant even hear the motor on the highway.

So fig id take the time to start paint prep for the "other wife" as my wife named my car. Well doing door jambs and i see these paint bubbles. get the wire wheel out and i hit bondo. Not bad bondo at first. I have no qualms with body filler. if you seal the metal first then apply no more than a dime thick and sand to cover up things like welds n such. so this was a little thick.



Hiding things like this



But then i find this!





looks like ill be fiber glassing tomorrow.

meeki007 said:

GOT BONDO?


So I'm taking care of the doors. Window seals rotten so bad the windows make so much noise taping on metal in the frame sometimes i cant even hear the motor on the highway.

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ha! i know that sound! mine rattle so bad i put a sock on each front window and rolled 'em up to hold 'em in place a bit on a drive to Salem and back.
Argyle socks -> pure class.

wow i wish id thought of that. could have tided me over. Got the seals now. Found out the early 240 seals are the same ! only diff is no wing window but it still fits after you trim it. same with the door seals too!

So go steel from 240's also the early 240 seals fit the 122 as well. same tract and shape for the door seal. dont know about the windows.

Hey thanks for that 145 wiring diagram you sent me. Found it later in me spam folder.

ya happens. don't know why but allot of people have been telling me that my email goes to there spam box. I think it has to do with they way i type.

I'll be sure to inform that my mail may goto spam for now on; so people will check their junk box.

Did it help? if you still have wiring questions id be happy to chime in.