YoshiFab VW 1,9TDi Belt Tensionier ALternative

Heyho folks.. has anyone thought about am alternative to tzhe 1,9 TDI tensioner pully when using teh Belt Kit from Yoshifab?

I have the third tensioner installed now.. the latest started sqeaking after 50kms now.. this drives me nuts.. also the Belt rubs against the inner wall.. my cylidnerhead is full of rubber debris. I have 250kms driven sofar with this tensioner.. nothing much to say and it was the SKF Version. Also the Plastic pulley seems to get off the bearing itself..??

I assume you're talking about the 16valve conversion belt kit? Here? --> https://yoshifab.com/store/16v-timing-belt-adapter-kit.html

As an alternative to replacing the automatic tensioner in that kit



The belt and tensioner will cost you max 40€ together.

Buy yourself a Gates 5129 belt.

Then get a tensioner from an Audi 80 VW Golf T4 Vento 1,6 1,9 D TD type thing. It will have a diameter of 72mm, but there are different widths you can buy. For example the Gates T41080 Belt Tensioner is 30mm wide, the SKF VKM11010 is 26mm Wide. Drill and tap the head for a 10mm bolt and if necessary put a washer underneath to space it out.

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Don't like that design? Well guess what the Ford cosworth came with.

Yeah also volvo penta motors use the 146 tooth belt and similar single tensioner. Of course the penta stuff is real expensive. You get the belts on Ebay UK for about 15 buxs. There is a thread where I list all the parts numbers for the 146 toothed belt from different brands. Penta heads have the bigger bolt hole for the tensioner stock. I originally ordered the yOsifab tensioner setup with the kevlar belt but low and behold it cam with littler bolt that was too small for my hole. I sold it..

JerryJS8 said:

I assume you're talking about the 16valve conversion belt kit? Here? --> https://yoshifab.com/store/16v-timing-belt-adapter-kit.html

As an alternative to replacing the automatic tensioner in that kit

Click to expand...

Just an FYI, it's not an automatic tensioner. You set the tension just like you would on an 8v or 16v VW, with a pin spanner (I use the one from when I was a bicycle mech).

Thanks for the tip on the belt and Audi tensioner. Looks very similar to the 2-piece VW ones.

The Problem what i have is simple.. the Golf 3 1,9 TD Tensioners are total crap.. the Plastic runner deforms under heat and tension and squeaks like ****.. also it rubs on the inner wall of the belt and i have a good amount of black dust on the head and waterpump already...

I will test the Audi one.. it has a different exzenter system and is made out of metal. Hope it has the same diameter and wideness

I found this on Retro Turbo's website while searching for belt and tensioner setup for my 16 valve cylinder head conversion.
I don't know which components are used in the kit.
http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=8v-to-16v-conversion-kit

Looks like the VW tensioner to me. The one I got anyway. Not sure which VW motor it's for. The metal part is the spacer probably a thick washer would work. The tensioner is basically the exact same as the penta one but the backside isn't quite thick enough needs to be out from the motor about another 1/8 inch. There is a thread here somewhere that I list the ERO part number. What I did was just go to Discount import parts and look at a few till I got the right one. Took the penta one with me to compare. You just gotta drill the hole to the next bigger size in the head unless you got penta head like me then you don't have to. Other then that I've bought a penta new one on ebay 100 buxs once. They are like 350 from the dealer, but you might be able to get one cheaper looking around. The penta one just uses a hex or allen wrench to tighten it or set the tension.

You might want to look at an early style VW 8 valve tensioner. Same pin spanner type setup, but made entirely out of steel. If I remember correctly the pulleys I'm talking about are shouldered. Pretty much any 8 valve petrol VW 1992 or earlier should have what I'm talking about.

The question is.. can i use this tensioner together with that yoshifab plate and pulley? The yoshifabplate also has a groove where the tensioniers arm goes in to prevent it from turning.. how does this tensionier handles this?

No this tensionier used bigger bolt that holds it in place. You gotta drill and tap little bolt hole in head for bigger bolt. Also this is bigger round tensionier then that one Yoshifab uses also his kit uses 850 belt which is longer...

Pro tip:
Bore out the vw tensioner and use an m14 bolt!

i have that mounting plate where the idlerpulley is also installed on.. i could tap that hole for m10 and use the 72mm tensioner out of metal instead the 65mm plastic one.. but i think i need a short belt then? right now i have 148x22mm there is a 147x24mm one which would fit better also to my KL Racing crankgear..

I'm reading this thread with attention... I also have my doubts about the tensioner that comes with Yoshifab's kit. I'm on my second one and I don't like the sound/noise it's making right now and I wouldn't want to crap my $$$$$ motor because of a flaky tensioner!

Thats the point.. that plasticwheel is molded onto the bearing and the sqeaky noise is coming from the wheel rubbing over the bearing itself.. also it deforms under the load of the belt.. it is just a ****ty tensionier...


So.. if you also have this setup:





We both should look out for hydraulic spanners we could mount on that plate?


Aaaaaand... found this.. tensioner out of metal with automatic spanner.. thats nice??

http://www.ebay.de/itm/INA-53105653...d=252274845377&_trksid=p2047675.c100013.m1986



The best would be a system like the B6304f features.. hydrailc cylinder pushing an exzenter beared tensioner

MadDog_945 said:

Thats the point.. that plasticwheel is molded onto the bearing and the sqeaky noise is coming from the wheel rubbing over the bearing itself.. also it deforms under the load of the belt.. it is just a ****ty tensionier...


So.. if you also have this setup:

We both should look out for hydraulic spanners we could mount on that plate?


Aaaaaand... found this.. tensioner out of metal with automatic spanner.. thats nice??

http://www.ebay.de/itm/INA-53105653...d=252274845377&_trksid=p2047675.c100013.m1986



The best would be a system like the B6304f features.. hydrailc cylinder pushing an exzenter beared tensioner

Click to expand...

I have this setup but with the belt going around the crank gear!

Nice EBay find but no shipping to Canada I think... Can't find it anywhere over here...

MadDog_945 said:

The Problem what i have is simple.. the Golf 3 1,9 TD Tensioners are total crap.. the Plastic runner deforms under heat and tension and squeaks like ****.. also it rubs on the inner wall of the belt and i have a good amount of black dust on the head and waterpump already...

I will test the Audi one.. it has a different exzenter system and is made out of metal. Hope it has the same diameter and wideness

Click to expand...

unsure what to suggest, I've not had that problem. it would tend to suggest that you've got your belt alignment off somewhere if it's rubbing like that. I haven't had that issue on any of my long or short lived 16vt's, and I started using josh's tensioner setup exclusively in 2008 or there abouts.

the only problem I've heard is there was a run of tensioners that would break internally, but even that was... 2010 or so. None of mine failed in use. I had one that got crusty after sitting unspun in the yard for two years..

nope.. the belt alignment is correct. also i want to make clear that this is not a pun against yoshi!

You're right.. the one which came with his set broke internally on the back.. designflaw.. i ordered a new one, SKF. That one broke also but i cant remember how or what.. i then purchased an INA tensionier.. they seem to be produced by Litens in Kanuckistan. This one now squeeks like hell because the overmolded plasticrunner deforms under heat and gets "loose".. all the golf3 ppl here know that problem.. but its nothing i want to have on a 3500 bucks motor.

I just bought an INA Tensioner, also produced by litens for a BORA 1,9 with a metal runner but that thing is spaced out by 6mm on top so the belt runs on the inner edge lip. it also is 68mm in diameter and not 65 so the timing is a bit of to the negative about 3/4 of a tooth..


/edit

what me really bothers is the timing being off.. when the belt has around the same tension as before.. how could that affect timing.. also i tricked my mind.. when i have a larger wheel, the belt must me longer not shorer, right?

I have ordered also that tensioner hich jerry suggested but i want to stay with that yoshifab plate and the secound idler cause i want to install a DSM CAS later so i dont have the belt in the way.. also i like the idea of dont have 40cm of belt wobbling around..

/edit2

Yep.. it justed clicked with the timing.. same tension, more diameter in the tensioner less way for the belt so the timing goes negative.. so theoretically i need an even larger tensioner a a beld with +1 tooth to get the timing correct again...

yeah.. we'll see how the other tensionier jerry mentioned works out.. maybe i could drill another hole in the plate and move the tensioner a bit..

Or i just buy a new 1,9td tensioner and call it quit and replace it when it squeaks again.. poulrais.. could you make a video of your tensioner making noises?

MadDog_945 said:

Or i just buy a new 1,9td tensioner and call it quit and replace it when it squeaks again.. poulrais.. could you make a video of your tensioner making noises?

Click to expand...

I'll try to make one on which you can hear it over all the OTHER noises, like that damn exhaust header gasket that keeps failing cause one of the bolt is striped and I can't find the time and courage to get it all off so I can install an HeliCoil insert.

the belt tension should have no affect or effect on cam timing.