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Windshield support blocks, 240

Redwood Chair - thanks for counsel on a piece of wood - I cut a piece of 90-degree trim at a 45 degree angle and wiped it liberally with Goo Gone. Worked beautifully -- just took time because of the tacky factor. The plastic tools are working better for the second pass -- getting as much off as possible before the tedious task of Goo Gone and rags. Good news - not a spec of corrosion anywhere - just pristine original paint and spot welds. Should all clean up like the picture at the bottom. Can anyone counsel me on where to find the clip that goes in the middle of the A-pillar that the interior trim piece slides into? I'm missing the driver's side one -- don't know what it looks like....

And a tip for anyone trying this that's really picky --- tape up the cowl opening and the hood/fender seams to avoid a BUNCH of debris ending up down in there. A bit surprised that I thought that one through ahead of time.









 
Wife suggested I use the sticky side of duct tape to try and pull the butyl residue off - worked beautifully. So, wooden tool first; duct tape second; Goo Gone third.

 
Don't forget to primer both the metal and the glass. That is very clean. I would wipe it all down with rubbing alcohol before you apply anything. Dries fast and no residue.
 
nel621 said:
Don't forget to primer both the metal and the glass. That is very clean. I would wipe it all down with rubbing alcohol before you apply anything. Dries fast and no residue.
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Hard to know what the best approach is here. I've found multiple posts that begin "I've been a glass installer for 10-15-20-25 years and....." Some of them say use a primer with butyl/ribbon; some say clean, smooth, dry. No question with urethane -- primer on both surfaces. Lack of clarity on need for primer with butyl.
 
Was waiting for butyl primer and new, wider 31mm rubber trim to arrive. Did a test fit -- clearly would need the wider trim to cover my re-paint line. Moral of the story - pull the glass for the next repaint. Zoom in at the bottom and you can see how far the new, smaller trim is from covering my paint line. In fact, the new smaller trim on this windshield would BARELY cover the channel on my car.



We removed the trim that came with the new windshield. Just a simple u-channel with butyl in the U. Just pulled it off. Cleaned up the butyl remnants on the edge. And installed the new trim - also a u-channel with butyl in the U. Pic with the new trim installed.



I wasn't happy with the few junkyard locating blocks or the rubber ones that came with the butyl. So we made some out of the foam blocks adhered to the windshield - used to protect it during shipment/storage. Adhered them with extreme double sided foam tape. And this wooden roller was indispensable for pressing the trim onto the edge of the windshield and for pressing the windshield onto the butyl.





Prime the pinchweld, roll out the butyl, prime the windshield, place it, and press/roller into place. Really happy with fit and especially the new trim. Paint line completely covered.







I have leftover primer and 31mm trim if anyone who happens to follow along is interested in taking this approach.
 
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Micheal where did you get the wider trim from and how long are you waiting for your everything to set in?
 
Ebay on the trim -- I can get the distributor's name if you need it. Manufactured on behalf of Gold Glass (they've got a website). I have 51.5 FEET of trim leftover if someone needs some.....LOL.

"....how long are you waiting for your everything to set in?" Not sure I understand....
 
M.H. Yount said:
Ebay on the trim -- I can get the distributor's name if you need it. Manufactured on behalf of Gold Glass (they've got a website). I have 51.5 FEET of trim leftover if someone needs some.....LOL.

"....how long are you waiting for your everything to set in?" Not sure I understand....
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The butyl to set in or does it always stay sticky?
 
The butyl is fully sticky upon touching ANYTHING. It will soften and spread heated by the sun which it will surely be in Texas but it never gets less sticky.

The 'soften and spread' is the reason you need to have locating blocks on the bottom and sides to keep the glass from moving.
 
TestPoint said:
The butyl is fully sticky upon touching ANYTHING. It will soften and spread heated by the sun which it will surely be in Texas but it never gets less sticky.

The 'soften and spread' is the reason you need to have locating blocks on the bottom and sides to keep the glass from moving.
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Hmmmm. Well, if it worked those sweeds I guess it'll work for me
 
Tom described it perfectly - the 20-25-30 year old stuff I dug out was the same consistency as the new stuff that went in. A butyl seal is good to go the minute it's set as long as the surfaces were cleaned and (preferably) primed. All the new stuff (for decades now) is set with urethanes -- those get hard and have to set up/dry a bit to secure the windshield. You'll see them taped to the top of the car to keep them from sliding down until the urethane sets. Butyl uses the blocks below the windshield to support it and keep it from sliding down. Mine had been removed at some point - likely to stop a leak based on the amount of silicone that had been added along the driver's side A-pillar. The trim had 2 different color clips holding it on - undoubtedly some had to be replaced when it was pulled. Whoever did this job put NO blocks in at all. So not only had mine slid down, it was off left/right as well - shifted to driver's side.
 
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:nod:

82245GLTPaint243.jpg


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