Fuel/Spark tuning for LH 2.4/EZK with TunerPro!

We'll with lh2.4 I had better luck with the 012 3 inch amm. I bought an 025 amm on ebay brand new and it never worked right...

The 3 inch 012 amm matches about 50lb hour injectors with a stock lh2.4 ecu bin. So unless you are changing something else leave the injector constants stock.

Or go with a stock 016 amm and adjust the injector constants for the bigger injectors.

Or put a 016 in a 3 inch tube is what I did.

Have you checked the codes?

Also if this thing had a piggy back in it at one time, were wires cut to install it? I'd check all that... Piggybacks don't work with lh2.4 as it will learn around it...

It had a long term fuel trim code when it came into the shop. The car has run this way for the past 7+ years, but only for the last year or so without the Split Second piggyback in there. I need to ask the customer if he started having the starting issues after we last worked on the car or if it was doing it before we worked on it(which I think is the case). I think it was last time in that we removed the piggyback, but that may also have been when we redid the cylinder head and swapped in the RSI Stage 1 cam from the MVP cam it had in there.

I will see if we can figure out what size the injectors are, because if they are only 46lb ones, we should in theory need to richen it up a bit to match, if what you say is correct. Assuming the 012 MAF/AMM matches the 025's look-up table. Then again, if it drives ok as is and is richer than it needs to be from the get go, we should really just be letting it learn fully and see where it is at. OR, try and tune a base fuel map that is so good it doesn't need to adapt/learn and is correct out of the box. That sounds like it'd be quite hard to do with you needing to wait for a few tanks of gas and varying driving to see how well you really did. We'll see.

I'd try a 012 amm. That would be the first thing I'd do...

To fix what problem? The car runs fine except for at low voltage.

We'll then fix the low voltage. Do you think that is causing the long term fuel trim code? I think that code means the ecu can't adjust the fuel enough to fix the problem... Find the problem, fix it and the code should go away...

aye

Well, yes... To all of the above. We will be checking the #1 fuse you suggested tomorrow.

As far as the LTFT code, we have not seen any air leaks and I am wondering if maybe it is/was there due to the injector/AMM combo. BUT, when the voltage drops, the car goes way lean(up to 17:1 AFR) at idle, so I think that it indeed could be the source of the problem as well. Originally I was thinking it just needed a higher idle speed(which is true), but that may just mask over the actual problem of maybe low voltage at the ECU. Hopefully we find something funky there, otherwise I'll just bump the idle speed up, reduce the lambda correction's sensitivity, tweak the idle spots of the main fuel map and have the customer run it like that for a while to see if he experiences anything else or the light coming back on.

#1 fuse is good. The injectors ARE actually 50lb/hr ones, so we're good there. We'll test the battery and charging system when it gets back together.

OF ANOTHER NOTE: It has an under drive crank pulley on it... So, that reduces voltage and exaggerates everything. That may need to go, as it's worn and the P/S belt is now "too long" because of the groove in the pulley.

klr142 said:

#1 fuse is good. The injectors ARE actually 50lb/hr ones, so we're good there. We'll test the battery and charging system when it gets back together.

OF ANOTHER NOTE: It has an under drive crank pulley on it... So, that reduces voltage and exaggerates everything. That may need to go, as it's worn and the P/S belt is now "too long" because of the groove in the pulley.

Click to expand...

Hi Kyle

You could try changing the voltage compensation table ?

YS
Jaybee

Thanks Jaybee,

Have you played with that table before? The 6707 1x9 16 bit? What do you do with the values and what is the 95-255 scale referring to?

I also responded to your email about the 025 being finicky with LH2.4 and the 012 or 016 in a 3" housing being better. What have you seen for problems with this? The car has been running on one for the past 7 years with a 563 ECU and a piggyback until about a year ago when we took the piggyback out.

Thanks!
Kyle

012 vs 025 discussion: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=255273

So, I just went and tried to trace that voltage compensation table(967 bin/xdf) and it never traced from it... I'll make up a 962 bin and try that instead as that's what you've had success with, Jaybee.

If anyone bought one this programmer and found out that the usb port is just for power

and your running win7 64bit and your motherboard doesn't have a onboard parallel port
Here is a work around, follow the instructions on the following website, it will work with pci cards too.
http://www.downtowndougbrown.com/2010/10/sivava-willem-eprom-programmer-on-windows-7-64-bit/

i hope this can help

I ordered this one on Monday... Hopefully it works out well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/G540-USB-un...540?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c7c2cbcc

Back onto the subject of this '90 745T with built motor, RSI Stage 1 cam, ported big valve head, large ball bearing turbo, full intake/exhaust(Volvo in/ex. manifolds), -025 AMM, 50lb high impedance injectors(resistor pack bypassed), stock -563 and -939 ECU with modded -967 bin........ We're removing the splicing done previously for the Split Second piggyback ECU and soldering all that back together.

The main problem at hand is an extended crank for 15-30 seconds and a lean stumble to life followed by another 5-15 seconds of lean(stoich or leaner) running before warm-up enrichment becomes noticeable. The car fires up after one/two cranks, as a normal car would, after sitting for less than 10-15 minutes from last being run. Wait longer than that, and it cranks too long and is lean initially.

If soldering these connections doesn't change anything, I want to adjust the fuel map some, specifically, richening up the cranking areas... Which maps to use for that and how much do you suggest I make the changes?

Here's more info and chit chat, starting with comparing the -012 and -025 AMMs.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=255273

has anyone tried pairing an lh2.2 ezk with a lh2.4 fuel ecu? going to try it next weekend I hope. I am pretty sure RPM from EZK to LH should be compatible, but i don't know much about the Tq signal on 2.2. Hopefully it is similar.

Hello! Great job with LH2.4!!
I'm newbie with LH2.4 and I have few questions.

I read my 240 b200f -590 ecu using Willem. This bin is 64kb, but all bins what I saw are 32kb?? What I must do? ipdowns lh editor say BIN have incorrect checksum but i haven't modified BIN. Bin: http://www.students.oamk.fi/~t8kama01/LH2.4/volvo_590_ori.BIN

I compare b200f 590 and 594 bins, but they are little different. Can I burn 594 bin my ecu and edit it? Few photos differents, upper is 590:
http://www.students.oamk.fi/~t8kama01/LH2.4/590vs594_1.bmp
http://www.students.oamk.fi/~t8kama01/LH2.4/590vs594_2.bmp
http://www.students.oamk.fi/~t8kama01/LH2.4/590vs594_3.bmp

Is this SST 27SF512? Can I re-burning it or must I buy new? http://www.students.oamk.fi/~t8kama01/LH2.4/2012-03-26 11.47.23.jpg

Thanks and sorry my bad english! (I read this topic with google translator )

Hi

Reason for wrong checksum reported is most probably because the bin is doubled up
(written twice on the chip)
This is normal when using the FS512 chip

Otherwise the 590 is more or less same as 561A bin wich has XDF on www.jetronic.info

YS
Jaybee

Can I burn 32k file to my chip (SST 27SF512?)? Or must I buy other chip?

561A seems almost the same than 590, thanks for the tip.

This is difficult, I have programmed the past only the OBD port (edc15 diesel).

So I've read through this whole thread, downloaded Tunerpro and some bins and xdfs (just to play around) to figure out where this is all at. It seems interesting and looks promising, but I notice there aren't many recent posts and the bins and xdfs on Jetronic.info all seem to be "old" (like November last year for the most recent). There's also no specific xdf for my 148 EZK but it seems like everyone might be running 207s. My question is, has this thread died off because A) everybody has figured everything out and is running awesome tunes now or B) was this not as good as everyone thought and nobody plays around with it anymore. I haven't seen a bunch of Ostriches on the for sale page, so I tend to think it is option A, but I'd like to find out before I drop coin on a EEPROM burner or Ostrich and chips. Thanks!

davidjmonk said:

So I've read through this whole thread, downloaded Tunerpro and some bins and xdfs (just to play around) to figure out where this is all at. It seems interesting and looks promising, but I notice there aren't many recent posts and the bins and xdfs on Jetronic.info all seem to be "old" (like November last year for the most recent). There's also no specific xdf for my 148 EZK but it seems like everyone might be running 207s. My question is, has this thread died off because A) everybody has figured everything out and is running awesome tunes now or B) was this not as good as everyone thought and nobody plays around with it anymore. I haven't seen a bunch of Ostriches on the for sale page, so I tend to think it is option A, but I'd like to find out before I drop coin on a EEPROM burner or Ostrich and chips. Thanks!

Click to expand...

It all depends on if you will take the time to optimize it. Short of going with an aftermarket EMS, Ostrich is the best you can do (if you've got the time and motivation).