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Old 07-19-2015, 11:19 AM   #1
cortezit
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Default Battery keeps loosing its charge

I purchased a 1993 Volvo 240 for our daughter several years ago while she was still living in California. We stored it up here in the Great North West for a couple of years. When she finally came home she started driving it. We have put 4 new batteries in the car in the last 6 months. I have replaced the alternator and have put a battery shut off switch in it. We have trouble shot the electrical system for possible "phantom parasitic discharge culprits" but to no avail. What am I missing?

I charged the battery again 2 days ago and isolated it from the system. Yesterday our daughter went out to take her Volvo "Edward" (she names all of her cars) and turned the battery shut off switch to the on position the battery was dead?????

Is there a battery that our beloved Volvos prefer over others?
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Old 07-19-2015, 12:42 PM   #2
johfraser
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Any battery should be ok.
What is the voltage at the battery terminals when the engine is running?
Is the battery fully charged (12-14V) after the engine is turned off?
What is the battery voltage before re-connecting?
Does the switch completely isolate the battery (are there any small wires connected directly to the terminals)?
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Old 07-19-2015, 08:10 PM   #3
nel621
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The shut off switches are known to fail, you think you disconnected but there is still current going through. The overhead dome light delay is another sneaky culprit, the light is almost completely out but still drawing current. Also the power lock solenoid in the drivers door can be a source.I think the 93 has a bunch of crap connected at the battery terminal yes? Clean every thing.Look at the car at night, in dark. Any glowing lights? Glove box light? Do you have a light in the engine compartment, trunk? How are you checking for a parasitic drain?
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Old 07-20-2015, 01:21 PM   #4
cortezit
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Default central locking system????

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Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
The shut off switches are known to fail, you think you disconnected but there is still current going through. The overhead dome light delay is another sneaky culprit, the light is almost completely out but still drawing current. Also the power lock solenoid in the drivers door can be a source.I think the 93 has a bunch of crap connected at the battery terminal yes? Clean every thing. Look at the car at night, in dark. Any glowing lights? Glove box light? Do you have a light in the engine compartment, trunk? How are you checking for a parasitic drain?
To answer the questions of the 2 members who responded. And thank you for the responses!!

1. Battery has 13.13 volts at full charge after coming off of the battery charger/battery still has 13.1 volts after being reinstalled-sitting all night with the disconnect switch in the disconnect position. Conclusion-Battery can hold a charge and disconnect switch-when used- does its job.
Parasite leak check conducted by disconnection the negative terminal and connecting a V/O meter between the negative lead and the negative terminal and reading milliamp draw. 70 milliamps.

How do I go about checking the central locking system??
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:51 PM   #5
1choice
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ah the faulty solenoid drain.


There is a molex connector looking connection right under the dash on the left side of the drivers side near the front.

that's how to disable those solenoids. when you disable this, the central locking stuff doesn't work.

I'll take a photo as im about to go, and post it when i get back.
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:40 PM   #6
Owsley
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I just copied this from one of my Toyota forums - similar issue

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Old 07-20-2015, 10:49 PM   #7
smokeyfan1000
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is the alt ground cable that runs from alt to block broken into?

Is also possible for a remanned alt to have bad diodes...this allows it to discharge the battery slowly, because it'll charge battery at a rate slower than it requires when car is being driven.

Diodes are like a "one way valve" for the alternator's current. And yes have seen new (& old) alts with bad diodes.

It's also possible to blow the diodes of a new alt if you arc the alt's positive terminal to ground while installing it.

Also is alternator BELT tight enough?

Take car to A/Zone or such and have charging system tested for FREE.
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:42 AM   #8
coonmanx
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Definitely make sure that the alternator ground wire is attached and in good condition.
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:48 PM   #9
24DinCT
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Check the voltage at the battery (everything off) with a DMM.
Should be above 12V+

While the engine runs it should be between 13.8-14.4

If less than those #'s (running) it'll most likely be a loose alternator belt, a bad alternatorground, or a shot alternator.

Get a DMM on it to get some actual #'s and take the guessing game out of the equation.

There's no way you went through 4 batteries in 6 months without having something wrong with the car. Double check that ground right at the alternator first!

No ground = not charging the battery
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