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Old 10-08-2016, 10:41 PM   #1
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Tacoma
Question 244 alternator conversion suggestion?

I've read so many different ways to replace the alternator for a higher output setup. I guess what my main concern is that I'm not finding anything on the specifics of my exact car.

I have a 1982 244dl 2.1l

I have been told to go with one of the ac Delco Chevy model alternators for the most simple and reliable also affordable choice.

But to find a reman anywhere I really need a part number to go along with it.

Can anyone tell me what the part number would be to do this swap, and is this the easiest route to go for the swap? What extra parts will I need to accomplish this swap?

Much appreciated.
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Old 10-09-2016, 01:26 AM   #2
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Location: Portland, Oregon

What kind of power are you looking for? The easiest upgrade (I've done it to all my 240's) is a Denso 100amp from the 940. It's smaller, more powerful, and mostly bolt up. Just grab the adjuster bracket.

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Originally Posted by b4_ford View Post
In Oregon, 5 Volvos in a parking lot isn't a meet, it's just a daily coincidence!

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Yep, Michael is right.
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Old 10-09-2016, 01:46 AM   #3
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Parts Shed Sale: Denso 100 Amp Alternator for 2/7/9 Series $108 shipped in the US

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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 10-09-2016, 06:41 AM   #4
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Location: south jersey

What's the problem with your current (no pun intended) alternator that is having you look for another one?
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:13 PM   #5
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Since the OP was asking about swapping out for a chevy alternator, I did a Google Search:"Swap a Volvo Alternator for a Chevy" and this was the at the top of the list:


and this was second:

(Actually, this was linked on the first listing)

I did a quick peek at the second link, and if you have even a modicum of ability it should be easy. It explains what to interchange, and what to do when the GM alternator is laid in place to figure out the changes to the mounts. But if you have never torn down an alternator to change brushed or a voltage regulator then you have some studying to do. Don't jump into this blindly if you think an "Ohm" is a Buddhist meditation chant.

From what I see, You need to swap out the pulleys, and you will need the GM alternator bracket (I am assuming the is what is being called to "black arm thing" in the post). You will also need the appropriate connector to go with the chosen alternator. if you are getting the GM Alt from a salvage yard, grab the bracket, and just cut the wires leaving 8-12 inches with which to work out the splicing. The article talks about getting the terminal designations and picking up a wiring harness plug (see cut wires at salvage yard). The newer the alternator, the more complicated the harness plug.

You were asking about part numbers. Well there really are no exact part numbers. It hast to do with what looks close to your original alternator. One thing to research is if you have an alternator that is externally regulated. I do not have experience with early Volvos (or much with late Volvos for that matter) but I don't know if any of the systems had voltage regulator mounted off of the alternator. 1982 appears to have both internally regulated and externally regulated. But the external regulators were still mounted on the alternator. It only makes minor differences in your wiring changes. A good place to get visuals, and amperages (which will also give you part numbers) is Rock Auto. You look up the make, the model and the year, choose electrical and then alternators. all will show the rated output, and most will show photos. First try to match the appearance of the target alternator with the original alternator, it need to have a similar mounting pattern.

If your alternator looks like this:

Then DON"T get one that looks like this:

or this:

You will need one that looks like this:

or this:

This is not as complicated as it sounds, but it is not a easy as changing wheels. If 100 AMPs will be enough, then go for the Denso, it was available on a number of Volvos from the late 80's on. If you have a sound system that makes the headlights flicker when you crank up the volume, then you might need to look for 140 AMPs or more. I am not going to go into Volts/AMPs/Watts here, I might get banned for taking up too much server memory. It is all in the research.

Last edited by lifeofgold; 10-09-2016 at 05:43 PM.. Reason: show photos
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:17 PM   #6
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Hey Red, are ALL of the Denso Alternators 100AMP? I have been getting inconclusive info on that. The one I have has lost the tag and I didn't want to crack it open to count the winding.
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:10 PM   #7
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Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.

Denso alternators for Volvo are 80 amp and 100 amp. They look the same although some 80 amp ones have 6mm studs for the big cable and others have 8mm. 100 amps all have 8mm studs for the b+ cable.
1982 242 turbo. 340k miles. Good stuff and lots of rust.
1993 245 Classic, 420k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
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Old 10-13-2016, 02:15 AM   #8
Markos Simopoulos
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I have a 220 amp ford diesel alternator on mine but that was a pain i will say
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Old 10-18-2016, 04:28 PM   #9
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Location: USA

I developed several types of adapters to run various alternators on the redblock. The best bang for the buck is an AD244 or DR44 off any full-size GM truck build in the last 15+ years.

It will require 2 spacers on the lower spool, a spacer on the upper spool, a 2-groove pulley, and a longer bolt with appropriate nut and hardware for the upper. Hook the turn-on lead to the wire on the regulator, add a 4ga charge lead from B+ direct to the battery and a 4ga ground from the case to the battery and it's good to go.

The DR44 produces more amperage at 900rpm idle on my 240 than the 100a Denso did for peak.
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Died at age 35

93 245 m47 300k miles, one owner, zero compression
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