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Old 02-22-2017, 12:26 PM   #26
TheLost
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Update on the brake light issue.

When applying the brakes, it lights up, but under normal circumstances (ya know, as a running light) it is dead. Any ideas?
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:08 PM   #27
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Not making contact with the conductor strips. Tweak the tabs on the bulb holder and try again.
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:09 PM   #28
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Rounds werent available on that style of car though. Its like bolting some mustang lights on your escort because you like how they look.
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:31 AM   #29
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Not making contact with the conductor strips. Tweak the tabs on the bulb holder and try again.
Huh. Interesting. Do you think it's a specific tab since it's the running light? I'd assume yet.

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Rounds werent available on that style of car though. Its like bolting some mustang lights on your escort because you like how they look.
Right, but no model 240 had this style Rounds. And lots of people put lights on their cars that didn't come standard, that's part of modifying and making a car that's unique to you. You SHOULD add parts if you like the way they look, as long as they don't hinder your vehicle, which in no way will the rounds decrease performance. To each his own.
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Old 02-26-2017, 02:31 PM   #30
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I threw in the new thermo yesterday and it's running right below optemp (good because it's ohio and ohio is cold af right now) so it should be good when the weather gets warmer. Messed with the tabs on the rear light and haven't found anything.

Did up the boost to 15 psi and I'm thoroughly pleased.. Though, with time, expect that number to increase.

Right now, next on the list is to finish up tinkering with the lights, then move to adding a tiny bit of audio equipment and doing some weight reduction around the car to even it back out. Probably look at those Corbeaus for the front to look somewhat OEM or maybe I'll just get Brides.

Oh! And I'm going to reblack all of the trim, as well as fix the matte black trim around the windows.

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Old 02-28-2017, 04:47 PM   #31
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UPDATE: Though the stumbly surging idle was reduced a bit with the right thermo, it's still there. I'm suspecting a small vacuum leak or something along those lines.

Also, fiddled with the brake light tabs more, no dice.
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Old 03-04-2017, 07:48 PM   #32
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Clean the IAC. Check the trailer connector splices for the taillight. Pretty sure I used scotch locks. I typically wouldn't, but I was in a hurry iirc.
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:49 PM   #33
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Clean the IAC. Check the trailer connector splices for the taillight. Pretty sure I used scotch locks. I typically wouldn't, but I was in a hurry iirc.
Checked the connector splices, everything seemed fine, so the issue eludes me.

I was having an issue with the radio, which was quickly sorted out, but while disconnecting the battery in the back, I found one of the detachable light housings just chilling out next to the battery. Going to put it (back?) in on the passenger side and see if that might resolve the issue, or replace the driver's side one with this one to see if it's the detachable housing that's the issue. It's been tricky tracking down the issue, to say the least.

I think the stumbly idle is due to a boost/vacuum leak because I started noticing that when I hit boost, it goes up to 15psi where it's set, but then almost immediately drops to 10psi, but the car still pulls fine. Either too much backpressure and the internal wastegate spring is getting goofed, the MBC is going out, or there's a boost leak. I'm going to start with the easiest of the three and pick up some stuff to make a boost leak tester and check that first. If it comes back negative (no leaks), then I get to try out a new MBC or see if a stronger spring in the IW will help. Not really sure, tbh. Aside from these couple hiccups, the car is great. Absolutely in love and can't wait for the next batch of projects (having it freshly cleaned and undercoated for the harsh Ohio weather, have the car resprayed in either the same blue as original, black or the maroon the cars came in originally, and tint applied with 50% in back, 35% on the front two, and MAYBE 10% on the windshield.). Oh, and I changed up the wheels I'll most likely get for it. Maybe go with the old TA GTA wheels in 16x8.
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:58 PM   #34
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it goes up to 15psi where it's set, but then almost immediately drops to 10psi, but the car still pulls fine.
#td04lyfe
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:18 PM   #35
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#td04lyfe
That's part of what I was afraid of. I don't really want to have to go with a new boosty-box to deliver stable boost.

Maybe time to invest in a little bigger turbo that can sate my hunger for boost, though.

Also need to weld up a crack I noticed in the DP.
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:58 PM   #36
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That's part of what I was afraid of. I don't really want to have to go with a new boosty-box to deliver stable boost.

Maybe time to invest in a little bigger turbo that can sate my hunger for boost, though.

Also need to weld up a crack I noticed in the DP.
There's nothing inherently wrong with a TD04. That one made 321 lb/ft of torque. I'd put a better cam in it before I swapped the turbo out. But that's just me.
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:17 PM   #37
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That's a 15g, right? What actuator is on it?

When I had a 16t with a t3 wastegate actuator, it did a wonderful job of maintaining boost pressure at 15psi, as well as 20psi. I can't imagine the 15g would be all that different.




And yes, cam is a must.
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Old 03-30-2017, 03:12 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by The Full Banana View Post
That's a 15g, right? What actuator is on it?

When I had a 16t with a t3 wastegate actuator, it did a wonderful job of maintaining boost pressure at 15psi, as well as 20psi. I can't imagine the 15g would be all that different.




And yes, cam is a must.
I think it's just a regular 15G actuator. I was going to swap it out at one point, but never did. There's also the possibility that the bracket is flexing some. I think it was just one of the ones made out of a AC compressor bracket.
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Old 04-02-2017, 01:32 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
There's nothing inherently wrong with a TD04. That one made 321 lb/ft of torque. I'd put a better cam in it before I swapped the turbo out. But that's just me.
I want to get a IPD T cam, tbh. That would be a riot, I feel like.

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Originally Posted by The Full Banana View Post
That's a 15g, right? What actuator is on it?

When I had a 16t with a t3 wastegate actuator, it did a wonderful job of maintaining boost pressure at 15psi, as well as 20psi. I can't imagine the 15g would be all that different.

And yes, cam is a must.
If it's a simple actuator swap I'd rather do that. Cheaper and it allows me to buy a T cam from IPD.

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I think it's just a regular 15G actuator. I was going to swap it out at one point, but never did. There's also the possibility that the bracket is flexing some. I think it was just one of the ones made out of a AC compressor bracket.
I can check.

I just need a free weekend, but hey, now that I let go of some exec positions in the organizations I'm in, this should be easier.
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:57 PM   #40
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Progress has been slow, if at all. Just wrapped up my Junior year at Otterbein and am heading to Detroit soon to intern, so bear with me.

That being said. The left DRL issue still eludes me.

Got the sloppy idle fixed though, and the driver fog light is intermittent.

Going to do a fluids change before heading up to Detroit, then the car will probably sit while I work on it. Fortunately, the job in MI is close enough to bike to, so I can afford to have the wagon down for a bit while I take care of some things. Not only that, but since I won't have my friends around, nor any sources of entertainment to distract me, I'll (hopefully) have more time to dedicate to the car over the next three months.

My list of things to do changed a bit after a few discoveries on the car. Once I have it in the air again, plans are changing to:

-Spot heal rust. cut out anywhere that's too bad (if there is any) and grind down the rest. Seal. Undercoat/paint.
-New T5. The T5 in it is from a late 90's V6 mustang. While it does its job, once I up the power I don't think it'll hang on. I'm going to try and source out a Fox Body WC T5 either from a GT or Cobra. Hydraulic clutch will follow. Oh, probably should do clutch stuff then.
-Finish sound system
-Replace all window switches
-Install Power Mirror
-Window Tint
-Custom Headliner since the one in it is very dirty, and buying an actual headliner sounds awful.
-IPD Turbo Cam
-T3 Actuator

Daydreams that may or may not come to fruition:
-Engine swap. I'll be near my uncle who is a master mechanic for Land Rover. A 30 year old Volvo should be a piece of cake. If I find anything fun and cheap in the pick'n'pulls of Detroit (leaning towards LS for the sheer number of them in Detroit. Practically a dime a dozen, too. Otherwise it's a B234 or maybe some inline 6 in the form of a whiteblock or a JZ)
-Ford 8.8 rear end with a locker
-Cad/Fab a sequential shifter. This is less so a functionality thing than a "I want to see if I can do this and make it work"-thing.
-Custom Dash with Flocking

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Old 05-17-2017, 01:56 PM   #41
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That car has a World Class T5 with a torque rating of 300 ft/lbs. That car made 321 lb/ft on the dyno. World class has absolutely nothing to do with strength. NWC T5s had flat roller bearings and crappy synchros. WC T5s has tapered roller bearings on the countershaft, bearings on the and better synchros. Don't take my word for it.

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The abbreviation "WC" stands for "world-class", which was the term Borg-Warner used to promote improved, second-generation versions of their popular five speed manual transmissions. World-class T5's were used in various Ford models starting in the 1985 model year, and in various GM models starting in the 1988 model year.

What makes a world-class T5 preferable? The world-class T5 transmission had bearings on 1st, 2nd and 3rd mainshaft gears whereas the non-world-class T5 transmissions didn't. Secondly, the world-class transmissions used tapered roller bearings on the countershaft, whereas non-world-class transmissions used flat (cylindrical) roller bearings. The synchronizers are also quite different: world-class T5 transmissions used 3-piece blocker rings on 1st and 2nd and friction-lined (aka "fiber" or "composite") powder-coated steel-core rings on 3rd and 4th for longer life. Non-world-class T5 transmissions used one-piece brass blocker rings throughout. With these improvements, the world-class transmissions have proven more durable, although both kinds are rebuildable. (Generally, world-class T5 transmissions have higher torque ratings. Many of the non-world-class transmissions are rated for 265 ft-lbs, whereas many of the world-class transmissions are rated at 300 ft-lbs. The Ford Motorsports "T5z" is rated 330 ft-lbs.)
The T5-Z is rated at 330lb/ft and 450hp.

That T5 in there is the best shifting, quietest T5 I've ever driven. I know it doesn't sound like it in the 240, but they're just not quiet transmissions. I drove the Mustang it was in before I bought it. V8 transmissions tend to command a premium because people think they're somehow "stronger" or "better" when in reality they're generally just more beat the hell up and ragged on. Sure, you can find a 2.95 gearset T5 from a V8 car, but whether you think that's better with the 3.73 rear in that car or not is up to you. Consider the overdrive. A .63 5th gear (that's generally what the 2.95 T5s have), a 3.73 rear, and a 24.7" tire (205/60-15) gives you 2000 RPM at a 65 mph cruise.

That might sound good, but trust me, it sucks. BT,DT. You don't make any torque down that low with that four-banger, and you wind up having to downshift at the slightest hill.

Get some wings at Sweetwater Tavern while you're in Detroit.
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:22 PM   #42
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That car has a World Class T5 with a torque rating of 300 ft/lbs. That car made 321 lb/ft on the dyno. World class has absolutely nothing to do with strength. NWC T5s had flat roller bearings and crappy synchros. WC T5s has tapered roller bearings on the countershaft, bearings on the and better synchros. Don't take my word for it.



The T5-Z is rated at 330lb/ft and 450hp.

That T5 in there is the best shifting, quietest T5 I've ever driven. I know it doesn't sound like it in the 240, but they're just not quiet transmissions. I drove the Mustang it was in before I bought it. V8 transmissions tend to command a premium because people think they're somehow "stronger" or "better" when in reality they're generally just more beat the hell up and ragged on. Sure, you can find a 2.95 gearset T5 from a V8 car, but whether you think that's better with the 3.73 rear in that car or not is up to you. Consider the overdrive. A .63 5th gear (that's generally what the 2.95 T5s have), a 3.73 rear, and a 24.7" tire (205/60-15) gives you 2000 RPM at a 65 mph cruise.

I don't have a lot of highway/rural driving on the regular, so the "fun" aspect is a little more to consider out there. This is another reason I want the more aggressive gearing from the V8 model. I've also noticed that it's started to get tough to shift into 3rd(might be syncro, pilot bearing, or something worse), which is just another excuse to swap. Besides, I've noticed that GM/Ford/Dodge parts are suuuuper cheap here in detroit. I've found a few fully running cars to pull one out of (maybe even scoop up a 5.0 while I'm here and do something stupid *daydreams*) for less than $1500. Also, I'm fairly sure the T5 behind the 3.8 V6s were only rated to 265wtq?

That might sound good, but trust me, it sucks. BT,DT. You don't make any torque down that low with that four-banger, and you wind up having to downshift at the slightest hill.

All the more reason to do some pulls haha

Get some wings at Sweetwater Tavern while you're in Detroit.

I'll have to do that! I'll be here until August so I should have some time.
Aside from my stuff in BOLD I've already sourced out some stuff for the car. Looking forward to it. I've also tossed around the idea of swapping in the getrag 6-speed from a BMW since those are also known for holding some serious power.

Then again, for the price of all that, I may as well V8 swap the car. Or toy around with the idea of a Turbo VG30 motor with a 30a trans behind it.. Plenty of room and I have experience with those motors. Plus, my friend Mike is a God with those motors, and could easily assist with the swap.. hnng. Or use my experience from my IS300 and pick up a 2JZGE/GTE, AISIN AR5, and some boosty bits.. More daydreams. Back to reality.

I'll still probably pick up the v8 trans.

Or I'll do something stupid with a full swap. Only time will tell.

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