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Old 08-08-2022, 06:38 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
hard to find a white paint no sunroof manual gray cloth seat 945…never should have sold the one I had?!
Sunroofs & leather power seats are common, the former being not s bolt in affair to delete…
My buddy had a white, grey cloth, auto (tragic) turbo '95 944. Thinking back now, it was a rare car since the 95's in the US were weird cars that came with non-traditional options since I think dealers were trying to offload the last of their inventories. You don't really see white 940 with grey cloth though..
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Old 08-11-2022, 03:00 PM   #27
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The 25mm ipd rear bar isn't so much 'bad' and I'm not trying to trash talk IPD; it works basically as advertised; car rotates a little better?
But, it also sacrifices rear traction with the stock soft rear springs and if the car really hits a dip it could spin out...

The OE recombine of the 24/19 combo with some slightly stiffer rear springs (I just use early 245 rear springs as cheap overloads on 7/9 wagons?) and camber mod really helps those things out...maybe effort better spent?
I don't lower any cars...
The 7/9 front bilsteins IDK what happened there? Did they get the compression #s backwards or from a truck or something? It's like pogo-stick over-achiever on compression?

The late 1994-1995 A/C & alt bracket is a LOT stronger...if you load the alt running the electric fan + compressor the regular 7/9 bracket can crack/break off & has those stoopid hooptie bushings on the A/C compressor.

I don't think they ever had R134A pressures + vibes/load for the e-fan on the alt in mind when they designed the original bracket & fixed it just before discontinuing redblock RWD in the USA?
The 1995-only brake booster + pedal bracket is a nice assist upgrade & helps the brakes feel a lot better on those pigs?
IDK if 302mm OE P80 brakes can be used...I *think* there's a way to use them (seen the Swedes do it with what looks like relatively clean bolt on methods?) with some manner of rotor...they fit under 15" steelies for P80 & 7/9 swedish cop cars & to bash around in the winter & it's a dirt cheap upgrade, so I accordingly kinda like them?

There's a lot of 7/9 H8, and while the cars look dated/kinda ugly & they're hard for me to like/love & there are seemingly only ~12 people left on the board that aren't both (patiently & pathetically) cheap, lazy &/or hackers that own them if they aren't gray/silver hair age, they're really not bad cars at all?

I can *just* fit in a 240 legroom wise & they're easier to get in and out of/sit more 'atop' them with the short little doors, and while not as good as a 140 with vent windows for pleasant cruising with windows/foot vents without excess noise or rain, the 240s are better that way than the american market designed 7/9 where they really kinda over-did it a little on the ugly, windows up/A/C/HVAC dependence, slow steering, nose heavy etc?

That said, a good D24T or B280 solid axle 7/9 with the sturdy OE hitch is downright impressive for a unibody car just how well it tows & how much stuff you can cram on the roof and still have your black bumpers etc to bash around & quite a pleasant cruiser?
They have a place for sure, and the japanese electronics & best of the '93-'95 940 last of the redblocks recombined make a good setup.
'93 is nice in that it's last year for no dual SRS dash/easy to delete the airbag & stick the euro non-airbag more comfortable smaller diameter steering wheel in them (with the non-airbag housing for the turn/wiper stalk switch mounts)?

Hard to find a solid common color 7/9 wagon sans sunroof. The cargo bay is also more short and squat and tho the internal hatch hinges are more reliable than the 145/245/Amazon (especially with all those stoopid wires on the later 245 for 3rd brake light, power lock, defrost, & wiper), the design is good from the standpoint of the opening/mouth being able to swallow more on the 145/245, 220 Amazon &/or 210 Duett...

I like 7/9s tho? Tow good, well rust proofed/water falls thru them a little better (sunroof shens / OEM 'near luxury' brands for the USA market cutting upward facing holes in roofs of a perfectly good car on most USA models, notwithstanding ...they're fairly reliable and don't leak that often, I just don't like them/head room for rear seat passengers is already a bit tight in 7/9s..), better designed for A/C, manual & or cloth seats comfortable on the highway & reliable?
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Old 08-12-2022, 05:47 AM   #28
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Quite inspiring thread! Subscribed, I have lots of similar ideas for my 945 too. Interesting to see how they work out!
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Old 08-12-2022, 09:37 PM   #29
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Some potentially bad news. Coolant residue has been building up in the area where the head meets the block, at cylinder #1. Looked closer and the area has a wet spot so coolant is seeping from the head gasket area.
IMG_9586
It hasn't been eating coolant, in fact my coolant level hasn't changed at all, so I'm going to just keep an eye on it for now, but I'm guessing a head gasket replacement is in my future. Might as well shave the head a few thou' and start upgrading internals when I dig into it.

Honestly I'm not sure why I'm surprised, the motor has 335k on it; it was bound to happen eventually.. I'll drive it less and keep an eye on everything in the mean time.
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:51 AM   #30
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Hm sometimes happens due to age more than miles when I see that, sometimes water pump top seal.

Hopefully it is external and not corrosive or pitting the block deck?
Seen a few redblocks pitted around the fire ring that would keep blowing HGs rusting to require too much surfacing to make it worth bothering to re-use the block by now at age 30+?
Rare but it happens/lot of time for such things?

Idk about building internals…if it has OK compression/not too much blowby, why build a redblock time bomb? Just keep it drivable/torquey/somewhat fuel efficient T-cam & all with the automatic or save up for a V8 or modern engine swap?

Those E-fan turbo cars run to the ragged edge of hot with the late model ductile alloy heads that are good for maximizing # of temp cycles over the years for the long haul & no cracks between valve seats etc with less pitting at the T-stat housing she used with non corrosive cooownt and better late model ground straps/wiring harnesses, but not always so good for cam rattle/journal alignment & an external leak isn’t that surprising?

Brickboard had a good write up on adding the coolant level sensor used/already wired up on 960s with that coolant reservoir that sometimes fails & making warning lamp already present in the ‘91+ style cluster active/functional instead of vestigial on ‘92+ models with the coolant reservoir with the spot for the magnet coolant level float sensor …newer car feature I rather like…if there’s any loss of coolant or brake fluid for any reason (those two particular fluids where s small leak is likely to be serious or get a lot bigger on a long trip?$, I want to know &/or top it off & keep a very close eye on it until a verifiable precise diagnosis & lasting repair can be made?

I’ve also seen them slowly ooze oil ~#1 more due to age than miles as well?
Redblock HG shens don’t necessarily happen all that frequently on cared for cars, but seen a little bit of every kind of HG failure in a sort of scatter plot as well as the cars age ?

If downtime is a concern, another known good squirter B230FT might be wise to have on hand if the head comes off to find a pitted block or something at that age/miles?
That said, head only with a head ready to go is still waaaaaaay less time than removing the bottom end?
I thought we were sorta ‘over’ ‘building’ overboosted redblock time-bombs?

Last edited by Kjets On a Plane; 08-14-2022 at 02:08 AM..
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Old 08-13-2022, 02:43 PM   #31
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At least it's an external leak, I guess.
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