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Atom's Amazon Wagon Project Update Thread

I wish...

ORLY???? You thinking of a turbo 5?

B5254, with or without turbo?
:-)

You're really going to piss off purists at car shows now!

Had an opportunity to see the car in Seattle a couple of weeks ago: so, so nice!

What a machine!

Yeah, I?m gonna swap in a turbo whiteblock at some point. Probably the most cost effective swap I can do (also familiarity plays a role). The head is off my brother?s C30. It skipped time and bent a bunch of valves. Just setting it there to check sizing. I would boost the M20B25, but there is zero room for an intercooler. With one less cylinder I might be able to make room. Plus, what kind of confusion havoc would that cause? Vintage Volvo body>E30 chassis>modern Volvo engine. :run::run:

I?m in no hurry though. I?m enjoying the car after six years of driveway ornament status. I?ll start amazing parts and when the time is right, then I?ll mess with it
 
I gotta travel to El Paso for work next week, so I’m gonna try and get some glass work done before I go so it can have a nice long cure time.

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I’ve tried doing some research, but it’s difficult to find anything firm. Does anyone know if you can you run a RWD manual whiteblock swap on the OE ECU (ME7?)? When I do the swap I want to do it on the cheap (of course) and love the idea of the OE reliability and all the engineering/tuning that goes into the stock system. Idle, tip in, lean cruise, all have already been worked out. You can find P2 T5 somethings for cheap all the time.
 
I?ve tried doing some research, but it?s difficult to find anything firm. Does anyone know if you can you run a RWD manual whiteblock swap on the OE ECU (ME7?)? When I do the swap I want to do it on the cheap (of course) and love the idea of the OE reliability and all the engineering/tuning that goes into the stock system. Idle, tip in, lean cruise, all have already been worked out. You can find P2 T5 somethings for cheap all the time.

contact lucky at ARD

Yes. Talk to Hilton, not that dumbass Lucky at ARD.
 
I?ve tried doing some research, but it?s difficult to find anything firm. Does anyone know if you can you run a RWD manual whiteblock swap on the OE ECU (ME7?)? When I do the swap I want to do it on the cheap (of course) and love the idea of the OE reliability and all the engineering/tuning that goes into the stock system. Idle, tip in, lean cruise, all have already been worked out. You can find P2 T5 somethings for cheap all the time.

It would be easier to do 4.4 and ditch the ETM
 
I?ve tried doing some research, but it?s difficult to find anything firm. Does anyone know if you can you run a RWD manual whiteblock swap on the OE ECU (ME7?)? When I do the swap I want to do it on the cheap (of course) and love the idea of the OE reliability and all the engineering/tuning that goes into the stock system. Idle, tip in, lean cruise, all have already been worked out. You can find P2 T5 somethings for cheap all the time.

If you took the ECM from a P2 car the complications would arise from the CANBUS network and the other modules in the system that are required to make the system operate without any error codes. But from a mapping standpoint, I would expect that minor tweaks are all that would be required to tailor a stock T5M tune to the car - for the most part a manual is a manual, doesn?t matter if it?s a M56, M66, M90 or some other transmission.

A 99/00 turbo would be a good starting point because the ECM doesn?t communicate with nearly as many CANBUS modules as a P2. 00 would be preferable due to the limited nature of the memory/available maps in a 99 ECU. The 99/00 isn?t as sophisticated as the later P2 ECMs but they?re both still ME7 which offers a huge upgrade in control over M4.4.

I would also recommend avoiding ARD, a few too many of my friends had problems with their tunes on a ME7 car for me to encourage anyone to work with them for a tune.
 
Ok, so Craigslist ad says “rebuildable core. needs headgasket”. I buy it with intentions of swapping the head onto my brother’s C30 with bent valves. He decides that he “probably” wants to just have his head rebuilt so that he has a known good part, rather than used. I get the engine to the shop and break it down. I’m not seeing any bent valves, obvious head gasket failure, cracks in the head or cylinder. I text the guy back to ask how he knows it was a bad head gasket and the response I got was

“The heater hose had a leak. And he drove it for a couple days like that. Before he decided to check the coolant level and add more. He said it would over heat after he topped off the coolant. He than took it to a shop who allegedly diagnosed a failed head gasket. It was cheaper to swap in a junk yard engine than repair the heat gasket. That's when I got the car. I didn't diagnose any further and pull the motor.”

Thoughts? The plugs were out, so I’m assuming someone did a compression test.

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I wiped the lips down with acetone and a grey scotchbrite to check for cracks:
Cylinder 5 (both sides)

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Cylinder 4 (both sides)

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Cylinder 3 (both sides)

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Cylinder 2 (both sides)

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Cylinder 1 (both sides)

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Cylinder head (I wiped the gasket surface down with acetone and scotchbrite to look for cracks or corrosion):

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Head gasket (untouched)

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Warped head?
 
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