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240 Advice on doing front struts on '91 244

Thank you very much gentlemen for your responses. I will be doing the work in early September. So I'm sure I'll have a few questions as I get closer to work time.
 
Did I forget to mention that I have some of the tools available to rent?

240StrutServiceTools.jpg
 
Turns out the deuchparts usa parts off eBay are URO components :grrr:

I will be getting the plates from 15A either this week or next depending on our schedules (found a local member yay!)

In all seriousness, are these usable parts and/orany better than the Meyle Made in Thailand stuff? I have always heard of URO parts being complete junk.
My car currently has OEM mounts that are cracked but are at least 170K miles old.

FWIW, I drive maybe 2-3K miles a year on this car and plan on upping that to 5K miles a year starting in 2020. But that's about it.
 
I’ve been fighting getting the gland nut off for the past 5 hours to no avail. PB blaster, torch, massive breaker bar. NOTHING!!

I’m at the end of a road here. Any suggestions how to get it off?
 
strut299.jpg


I'll put a pipe on this tool if my rubber mallet doesn't do it, while the strut is in the car. How do you use a breaker bar on it??

http://cleanflametrap.com/strut.html

I?m willing to give that tool a try. What is it called and where did you get into from?
The rust on the gland nuts is so bad I think it?s rusted itself to the spindle housing.

I was trying to use a pipe wrench on the spindle housing with a breaker bar and a vice grip on the nut itself. To no avail after 6 hours....
 
I use a large chisel and 3lb sledge hammer to loosen the gland nut. It doesn't matter if you mangle the gland nut as the new inserts will come with new ones.
 
Look out if the gland nuts are the spot welded together ones. Like on KYB for example. When using the pipe wrench on them you can rip the top spot welded part right off. Then you need an air chisel or sledge and chisel to get the remaining chunk of the nut out of the strut. Beware of an overtightened gland nut. Usually the pipe wrench with pipe over the handle get the tough ones. Crude but effective.
 
I?ll give the pipe wrench with breaker bar and torch Combo a try again tomorrow.
The rust is just terrible. Good to note about the spot weld. I believe these are very old OE parts that are on the car. I cannot find any evidence of spot welding.

GA5NdhR.jpg
 
Sorry, how do I get it sized normally?
The gland nut is completely rusted and crusty on to the spindle housing...
 
Soaking time is helpful. The longer the strut has time to sit and let the penetrant seep into the threads. The better. that hook spanner that Art mentioned will fit into that nut but the pipe wrench should do the job.
 
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