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Pig: '79 242 16vT

Can you do a torque mount with a rubber bushing on one end?

Welded together early torque rods hang onto the motor fine in John Lane's old car?

Rubber both ends is probably fine if it's captured, so +1? :e-shrug:

Nice to have little/no noise, but let the clutch out with the 700 style center bearing/3rd mount and not feel everything move like 4" like a giant flopping fish, but not buzz your brains out with poly/heims everywhere.

It's a tractor car and all, but livable/rubber is nice too.
 
Let's have a party. My car will be in the garage about that time, whether I have to drag all the household junk into the street or not.

:grrr:

In time. You of all people know patience :)

Such a good looking 242. Very impressive 16V too, would love to see it in person someday.

Thanks! It's a product of gleaning knowledge and copying the ideas that seemed to work. Having vendors that cover the gap between "Legos" and "I built a 1000hp engine of my own design with a home made crucible and a hundred year old lathe!" really makes it possible for me. I just gather existing stuff together in the hopes that it will all work out in the end!

Glad to see the 93 AC condenser fits with minimal butchery. Don't know if you have it charged already or just test fitted; if you get another chance to remove it I'd recommend a good cleaning of those fins. Lowes/Home Depot both stock household AC condenser cleaner, which does an OK job on these automotive coils. I'm sure you appreciate that you want max. air flow to your FMIC.

Looking good!

Thanks! Yes it needs to be cleaned. My plan was to just use Purple Power and a power washer at low setting with the intercooler out of the way. I'll look into the Home Depot detergent.

What cams are you running?

They are locally reground stock cams...a copy of the Techtonics Tuning 276 mild race grind. Needed lash caps and modded ABA lifters for it to work. Culberro has all the deets.

Re: the range of misery for the mounts; exactly the same in my car with HD rubber mounts and the STS solid third mount. It makes me want to rip the dashboard out of the car.

Dude same. These things are excellent for a racecar...not so much something with a stereo and an interior.

Looks Much Euro

What mounts?

ASS:
https://www.anderssonsteelspeed.se/shop/product/motorfaste-volvo-200---b23230?tm=

Screenshot_238.png



using softer mounts with our torque mounts is fine. If you are running stiff mounts plus the torque mount it's going to rattle. The Jag mounts alone rattle more than our torque mount with softer mounts.

Rubber! Rubber! Rubber!

I have cheapo stock engine/trans mounts in my car plus your thick rod. It's honestly fine for daily use. Definitely noticeable at idle but I have no issue living with it.

I'm old dude.

Welded together early torque rods hang onto the motor fine in John Lane's old car?

Rubber both ends is probably fine if it's captured, so +1? :e-shrug:

Nice to have little/no noise, but let the clutch out with the 700 style center bearing/3rd mount and not feel everything move like 4" like a giant flopping fish, but not buzz your brains out with poly/heims everywhere.

It's a tractor car and all, but livable/rubber is nice too.

Rubber is definitely nice. You know what else is nice? A giubo. T5s don't have them and that's a damn shame.

I'm striking the balance, while pissing with the cock I got (B230/T5). More sound deadening in doors. Better mounts in progress.

I have more ideas for drivers side mounts...in case Scott and Taylor aren't able to make a rubber bushing end for their torque mount:

https://www.classicswede.co.uk/240_PU_engine_mount_Left/p1733344_12566100.aspx

http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=8v-pu-engine-mount-for-200-series-b200-b230-prt

http://www.polybushings.com/pages/1007.html

Aaand on the TB bargain basement end: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6612180&cc=1101362
 
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You could swap out one of the Teflon ends for a nylon filled rod-end. They’re a bit quieter, significantly quieter after the Teflon gets pounded out.
 
...the gap between "Legos" and "I built a 1000hp engine of my own design with a home made crucible and a hundred year old lathe!"

Have you seen that thread on the Grassroots Motorsports forum where the guy basically built his own Ferrari V12 out of welding rod!? It's not far off...
 
You just reminded me that I didn't finish that sentence :) I have not seen that project. I have however seen the 1800e that is being turned into a Ferrari with a Jaaaaaaag V12!
 
I don't :-( My photography skills are inexistent. Maybe some day I'll have decent pics taken of the whole thing.

Been messing with the tune for the last 75 miles. Changed the oil, found nothing weird, and proceeded to up the rev limit from 6000 to 8000 with a soft limit of 7500.

7500 is too low.
 
Found out the uncomfortable way that I either need a surge tank or to never drive it hard below 1/4 tank:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/O6B2Hz9uxT4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
In-tank sucked in air. Needs a surge tank or to not get beat on under 1/4 tank. I turned on the fuel pressure failsafe feature on the ECU to avoid this happening in the future.
 
Just do what we did on our Lemons car, Harald - get an ATL fuel cell with an integrated sump snork in the bladder floor, hook up one pump to that, then another with the inlet hose suspended up off the floor of the cell by 1" or so, and bury both pumps in the foam. Suck from the higher pump as your primary, then switch over to the secondary when you start to get hiccups in the high-speed sweepers. But when the reserve pump sucks dry - that's it - so you only have 3 or 4 laps of reserve time for us to get ready for the pit stop. Next driver SUIT UP!! Get the fuel bottles on deck, now!

Oh...sorry. Wrong context ;-)
 
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