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Old 09-13-2017, 04:05 PM   #276
t8fanning
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I don't think so. But on the new one that's coming, I'm definitely going to bleed and test it out of the car first thing.
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Old 09-16-2017, 04:22 PM   #277
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Read through the whole thread...wow...cool project and great result!
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Old 09-20-2017, 01:20 AM   #278
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I finally got everything back from powder coating and a new bearing from Summit, put it all together and drove the car. First impressions are that the clutch is stiffer than I thought and incredibly grabby. It's pretty much an on/off switch right now. I've only driven a few miles on it, so I'm sure it'll break in and be a little more driver friendly. I also am not used to the clutch starting to disengage at around half the pedal travel. I must have had my cable adjusted poorly in the past because the clutch always started to disengage really high in the pedal travel.

Here's a picture of the throwout bearing installed on the trans:



If you want to do this, be sure to install the threaded sleeve first (it's a tight fit, even with lubrication) then put the anti-rotation pin in, and then thread the bearing on. I initially tried to thread the bearing on and then install the anti-rotation pin, but that didn't work at all. The pin is way too long.

I initially tried using a master cylinder with a bore of 0.625", but that didn't move enough fluid for the clutch to actuate with the pedal travel I have available. Maybe I didn't bleed the system enough and it could work, but I don't think it will. I think you have to use the Tilton recommended 0.7" bore. Luckily I got a -4 AN dry break fitting for my clutch line which makes swapping master cylinders pretty clean and easy. Over the last two weeks, I've removed and installed the master cylinder probably 6 times. Once the bearing was good to go, I didn't know what to do with the bleed line, so I clamped it to the transmission and tucked it back to avoid as much road grime as possible. I need to get a couple hose separators to tie the clutch line to the fuel hard lines for a little more stability.





So far, I've been really pleased with Ben's T5 adapter plate. It put the shifter in a little different spot than the Deeworks kit, so I had to counter bore the shifter bolts so they didn't hit the passenger edge of the hole. One benefit to Ben's plate is that the transmission no longer pops out of second gear due to the rubber shift boot bunching up. However, it did pop out of fifth a few times on my drive, so I may need to re-install my modified shift boot instead of the stock one I have in there now. I'll figure it out soon enough. I just need to drive it, it's been sitting way too long. I also need to work on the flex fuel part of the tune a bit.

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Old 09-20-2017, 06:50 AM   #279
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"I've only driven a few miles on it, so I'm sure it'll break in and be a little more driver friendly."

What type/brand of clutch disc and pressure plate?
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:23 AM   #280
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Do you think you could have had the inside of the bell housing faced down a bit to create a flat surface for the release bearing? I have a deeworks kit, and have been planning on using the internal slave.

Dry breaks are awesome!

Jordan
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:43 AM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
"I've only driven a few miles on it, so I'm sure it'll break in and be a little more driver friendly."

What type/brand of clutch disc and pressure plate?
It's a Clutch Masters FX400 with a yoshifab billet flywheel.

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Do you think you could have had the inside of the bell housing faced down a bit to create a flat surface for the release bearing? I have a deeworks kit, and have been planning on using the internal slave.

Dry breaks are awesome!

Jordan
You probably could, but I'm not sure it's worth it. The trick would be matching the throwout bearing sleeve diameter to the Ford size. The threaded sleeve of the bearing was a really tight fit on the bearing sleeve, probably just so it doesn't move closer to the clutch. You'd want to match that. If the Volvo sleeve is a smaller diameter than the Ford one, you could do it with a custom sleeve, but if it's bigger you'd have to add material. It's much easier to just use the Ford bearing retainer in my opinion.
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:58 AM   #282
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Like I was saying last night the manners of my clutch were pretty different after ~300 miles. It's still an "obviously not stock" clutch and if I get sloppy with the feet it can be quite harsh. But generally perfectly manageable.

You had some kind of firewall reinforcement? Would be interested if you see as much deflection around the MC as I do

I had an aftermarket rubber boot that was really stiff and pulled my car out of fifth. Grabbed a nice floppy used one and problem went away
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Old 09-20-2017, 12:06 PM   #283
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Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop View Post
Like I was saying last night the manners of my clutch were pretty different after ~300 miles. It's still an "obviously not stock" clutch and if I get sloppy with the feet it can be quite harsh. But generally perfectly manageable.

You had some kind of firewall reinforcement? Would be interested if you see as much deflection around the MC as I do

I had an aftermarket rubber boot that was really stiff and pulled my car out of fifth. Grabbed a nice floppy used one and problem went away
Yeah, I just need to break it in. Was the pedal force always the same for you? I still don't think the smaller bore will work with the pedal travel I have available, but I'd like to do something to lighten it up a bit.

I haven't added any firewall reinforcement. I just took the stock vacuum line pass through plate off and put the master cylinder in. I haven't noticed any deflection in the firewall. My car was initially a stock turbo car, so I already had the master cylinder holes and whatever reinforcements Volvo did.

I am using a junkyard shifter boot. I'll pull it off for my drive home to see if it stays in fifth or if my problem is something else.
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Old 09-20-2017, 12:14 PM   #284
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You could try the smaller bore master and lengthening the stroke as much as possible...
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 09-20-2017, 12:16 PM   #285
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Already tried that. The stroke is as long as possible. That's why my master cylinder arm is not in line with the pedal.
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Old 09-20-2017, 12:19 PM   #286
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ok, try an M90 fork and 940 slave. Ditch the internal. Having fancy parts is not worth the effort if you end up with a cracked firewall.
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Old 09-20-2017, 12:21 PM   #287
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Maybe. But I'm pretty confident I won't crack my firewall. It's not that hard. It's just a bit harder than my previous cable clutch.
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Old 09-20-2017, 12:46 PM   #288
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Tilton sells TO bearings with different face diameters. The small ones will decrease the pedal effort needed, but you'll have to check dimensions to make sure it'll fit over the TO sleeve.
http://tiltonracing.com/product/repl...-bearing-kits/

This is what I used on a T5, 52mm bearing. The internal diameter of the hydro-housing did not clear the sleeve, so I had to machine it down just a bit.

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Old 09-20-2017, 12:58 PM   #289
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Tilton sells TO bearings with different face diameters. The small ones will decrease the pedal effort needed, but you'll have to check dimensions to make sure it'll fit over the TO sleeve.
http://tiltonracing.com/product/repl...-bearing-kits/

This is what I used on a T5, 52mm bearing. The internal diameter of the hydro-housing did not clear the sleeve, so I had to machine it down just a bit.
Are you saying that changing the face diameter of the bearing will reduce pedal effort, or changing the whole bearing will? I understand how changing the whole bearing could reduce pedal effort due to a different hydraulic piston area, but I don't understand how simply changing the face will.

Your bearing looks good. I like that it's bolted down and not dependent on an anti rotation pin.
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Old 09-20-2017, 01:14 PM   #290
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The point of contact between bearing and pressure plate release fingers shifts closer to the axis of the input shaft, giving you a longer lever arm. It's significant enough of a change to make worth doing.
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Old 09-20-2017, 01:37 PM   #291
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Pedal effort unchanged since go on my car. It's still much lighter than my cable setup which was so heavy it used to make my lower back hurt in a half hour commute.

I'd watch the MC while someone runs the pedal, I think they need bracing or reinforcement. IMO this is a product of the super flimsy panels and not a setup issue.
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Old 09-20-2017, 01:54 PM   #292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
The point of contact between bearing and pressure plate release fingers shifts closer to the axis of the input shaft, giving you a longer lever arm. It's significant enough of a change to make worth doing.
The fingers of the pressure plate seem to reach their maximum height at the end of the finger. So it seems to me that it shouldn't matter what diameter bearing face I have because the point of contact will be the same regardless.

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Pedal effort unchanged since go on my car. It's still much lighter than my cable setup which was so heavy it used to make my lower back hurt in a half hour commute.

I'd watch the MC while someone runs the pedal, I think they need bracing or reinforcement. IMO this is a product of the super flimsy panels and not a setup issue.
I guess I was spoiled with my old clutch, but maybe not because it couldn't hold the power.

I'll check to see if the MC deflects tonight.
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Old 09-20-2017, 02:57 PM   #293
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The fingers of the pressure plate seem to reach their maximum height at the end of the finger. So it seems to me that it shouldn't matter what diameter bearing face I have because the point of contact will be the same
It doesn't matter until the fingers get pushed in and the contact point moves to the outer edges of the bearing.

Are you still having bleeding issues with the hydraulic TOB? It seems that you have it spaced with the piston being pushed all the way in. I seem to recall that it had to be a bit off the bottom, that there was a sweet range in the middle of the stroke.
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:05 PM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
It doesn't matter until the fingers get pushed in and the contact point moves to the outer edges of the bearing.

Are you still having bleeding issues with the hydraulic TOB? It seems that you have it spaced with the piston being pushed all the way in. I seem to recall that it had to be a bit off the bottom, that there was a sweet range in the middle of the stroke.
That's true. I guess that does change the moment arm significantly because my bearing face is pretty wide.

I'm not having trouble bleeding it anymore. I installed it dry and then bled it. I really just followed the instructions. If I gave the piston some pressure and then installed it, I'd be worried about over extending it or having it never fully release. You haven't had any issues with giving it some height before installing?
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:15 PM   #295
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I just checked the Tilton install instructions again. They recommend a 1/8in gap between the face of the bearing and the fingers when the piston is completely bottomed out.

No issues so far!
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:35 PM   #296
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So I drove around with no shifter boot for a while to see if it was really popping me out of 5th. It wasn't. There's some problem internal to the transmission. Looks like I'll be pulling it out again sometime fairly soon.
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Old 09-21-2017, 12:08 PM   #297
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So I drove around with no shifter boot for a while to see if it was really popping me out of 5th. It wasn't. There's some problem internal to the transmission. Looks like I'll be pulling it out again sometime fairly soon.
Was it recently rebuilt or has it ever been opened?
The 5th gear collar/slider can go on either way, and only one way will work properly. Good news is that the 5th gear assembly is RIGHT there once the tailshaft housing is removed.
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Old 09-21-2017, 12:19 PM   #298
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Yep. When I had it out, I took it apart and reshimmed the counter gear and did a few other things. I figured it was the 5th gear keys spring came off or something, but I'll have to check the collar/slider too. I didn't know which way it went on, so I put it on the same way I thought I saw in a youtube video. Which way is it supposed to go?

Yeah, I'm just glad I won't have to go in the main case. Tailhousing is no big deal to take off.
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Old 09-21-2017, 12:32 PM   #299
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Oh yeah, that's the one gotcha moment. It's not very apparent from just looking at the slider assembly.
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Old 09-22-2017, 01:21 PM   #300
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Quote:
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I didn't know which way it went on, so I put it on the same way I thought I saw in a youtube video. Which way is it supposed to go?
The T5z I swapped 5th gear on didn't have the slider with the giant chamfer pointing to the rear that all of the images online (and the manual I have) show. I had to look at the groove offset and go from there.
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