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Old 04-26-2020, 04:09 PM   #1
G-Tech 940
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Default My White '92 940 Turbo, First Project Car

Welcome!

I bought this Volvo 940 Turbo sedan in late 2019. It is my first Volvo, my oldest ever car, and my first attempt at doing all of my own maintenance/overhaul.





(The "T" on the plate is a temp sticker, not a new driver sticker lol)

I have not driven it a whole lot, I did a test drive and have driven it about 40km since then, down to the car wash, gas station, small tests, etc. The plan was to work on it over the winter, get it safetied in the spring, and then drive it in the summer. Well one thing led to another, then corona hit. I have not done as much overhaul as I would have liked to, but I am moving at a slow but steady pace and learning a lot along the way!

Here are a couple pics that are the only evidence I have of how dirty the engine bay was when I bought it.







Over the winter I spent probably 100+ hours tinkering with the car. Mostly involved with cleaning.



I pulled out the seats and gave the interior a solid detail. Any trim piece that I could get out easily, came out and all the gunk was cleaned around the edges. The car was not a dirty car, but 27 years of slow buildup around trim pieces, under seats etc resulted in a lot to clean.

I bought this awesome keychain from a fellow in the UK who makes custom leather keychains. They are laser cut. He also did a custom design for me for my Subaru, only asking that I bought 1 extra as a fee.



I have also done the armrest mod. I bought an 850 cupholder armrest and bolted it to the 940 armrest. Well, actually, I didnt want to screw up the original, so I bought a tan one on eBay and painted it grey, then used that. It would have been the same price to just buy the 940 cupholder armrest though.



I also took this opportunity to install a front + rear dash cam. I only had to buy an extra wiring kit so that I can swap the cameras only from winter to summer car. (no pics of this)



I bought an NXS manual boost controller from eBay and a Electrical Boost Gauge from Prosport. I have not installed the MBC yet (want to swap the turbo first) but I did install the gauge in the dash. This was my preferred spot for a single gauge. I am happy with how it looks!







I only plan on raising the boost to 12-14 psi, do you think I would need a wideband AFR? I was under the impression that I would only need one if I was going higher, 15+.

I bought a set of 850 big brake brackets, as well as a pair of calipers. I remanufactured the calipers, and had a bit of fun with engine paint. These are not yet installed, I still need to buy some rotors and pads, and will be swapping the hoses at the same time. I need to reman the rears too!





There was some damage on the car when I bought it, it has clearly been in a bit of an accident, or more likely 2. The main damage was this front jacking point;



There is also some body damage, both rear quarters. I hammered them out from the inside the best I could, I was planning on eventually sanding, bondo-ing and painting once I have worked up the courage. Some of the car has been repainted before, and then the rear quarter damage happened on top, which is why I suspect 2 previous accidents.





(I removed both rear door trim pieces to replace the clips, and figured I might try to polish the paint first, I'm not sure yet)

I removed all of the trunk trim as part of my detailing. I took a pic of the fuel sender unit while I was back there. Not looking forward to that job one day, as I will need to replace all of those fittings, and probably hoses too. Thanks, salty roads!



I debadged the rear. Partially with the intent to polish the paint and replace, but I actually like the look and will probably put a single Moose in the center. Also swapped the tail lights for S90 white versions. I want to look into getting chromed orange bulbs though, as you can just see the orange bulbs inside.



I re-did the radial-rod bushings, front and rear, as well as sway bar end link bushings. Also blasted and painted the rods and the sway bar end links.



I spent quite a bit of time cleaning and detailing the engine bay. It is very far from where I would like it, but cleaning some (like getting the block bare enough to clean and paint) requires mechanical skill that I am still working towards.









My biggest detailing tasks still to do are to use Forever Black on the timing belt cover, clean the white paint spill on the air box, remove and clean (possibly paint) the valve cover, and apply a bunch of stickers I got from Mr. Barton (replacement engine serial sticker, distributor, coolant bottle, booster, etc)

I remanufactured and zinc plated the brake booster. Still needs it's Bendix sticker!



Disaster struck when I turned the car around in the garage. I was not used to the hood being near the door. I opened the garage door for more light, while the hood was up. A piece of the garage door caught the front of the hood:









It pulled the hood back, past 90 degrees, and bent the hood hinges. There was other minor damage to the cowel (I think a very tiny bend) and the wiper line "T" snapped. Thankfully, I think the hood itself survived unscathed. However I will need some new hinges so that the hood will sit flush again.... I'm such an idiot.

Giant box of parts that I have to work my way through. Including belts, new coolant tank, water pump, full set of gaskets (I have been convinced to not do HG, unless there is a verified problem, but I do want to do all the cam/valve cover seals/gaskets, all the manifold gaskets, trans filter and gasket, and oil pan gasket). New Distributor cap/rotor, plugs, plug cords, wheel spacers, oil filters, fuel filter (need 11.2mm ID fuel hose to make the switch) and more.



Also have some Oil feed and coolant hoses for the turbo. Waiting from Yoshi for the oil drain hose/fitting.



They will be going on the 15g turbo that I will be swapping in.



It has a straight flange, which ain't gonna work. Originally I was going to mod the downpipe, but I found a conical flange 15g that I will be using instead. Will have to reclock anyways, so I will open up both 15g and take the best looking cartridge. I would also like to get the cold side (compressor?) powdercoated. Both 15g turbos have allegedly been rebuilt very recently.
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Old 04-26-2020, 04:19 PM   #2
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I also changed my rear diff oil. Old vs. new!



A small touch, using paint markers on raised lettering





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Old 04-26-2020, 04:37 PM   #3
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I'm trying to put together an order through the Volvo dealer for new studs for when I change my manifold gasket and turbo.

I want to replace all manifold studs as well as the studs between the manifold and turbo.

I will be ordering;

8x manifold studs (#11)

8x turbocharger washers (#13)

8x manifold washers (#15)

4x turbo studs (#26)

4x turbo nuts (#27)

I have 8x copper manifold nuts coming from Yoshifab.


But what about numbers 17-25? Is that just to support the manifold? Should I be replacing those parts too? They are far more expensive than all of the other studs and nuts. Edit: actually that single stud and nut is the same as #26/27, but still expensive to replace if it's not necessary

Should I even bother replacing any of the washers on the manifold?

Last edited by G-Tech 940; 04-26-2020 at 05:27 PM..
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Old 04-26-2020, 07:11 PM   #4
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No need to change those washers.... they are thick & beefy, and will serve you well. For sure, new OEM studs and nuts on the exhaust mani. TAKE NOTE of how those washers come off the studs; orientation matters.

Good choice on the 9 turbo sedan! It is critical on these old Swedes to start with "good bones", and it seems you have that. Ironically, your body damage locations are nearly identical to what I found on my sedan when I bought it.

Your planned 15g upgrade will serve you well. Be sure that you also do the "accumulator mod" on your AW71.

What are you goals for this sedan? DD service? Weekend warrior? Cars and coffee style? You need to answer that question first, before you begin evolving the car. Decide what it's purpose is, and then formulate a plan. Lots of things TB folks do to these cars actually make them LESS reliable and perform worse..... don't fall into that trap.

Good luck! I'll keep an eye on your progress.
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Old 04-26-2020, 08:04 PM   #5
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Great job on the attention to detail, i like where you are headed with this.
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Old 04-26-2020, 08:40 PM   #6
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Thank you very much for the tip about the washer orientation, as well as the AW71 accumulator mod! Is there anything from number's 17-25 that I should replace? Maybe just the stud #17 and the nut #20?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
What are you goals for this sedan? DD service? Weekend warrior? Cars and coffee style? You need to answer that question first, before you begin evolving the car. Decide what it's purpose is, and then formulate a plan. Lots of things TB folks do to these cars actually make them LESS reliable and perform worse..... don't fall into that trap.
This car will be my summer daily driver. I will expect to do about 350-400km (250mi) per week, 80%+ highway. Living in the salt belt sucks, so I will be keeping my '97 Subaru for the winter for now, but have my eye out for another 700/900 I could use, would be nice to maintain cars I can become familiar with and share parts.

My main goal is to keep as much reliability as possible, but also to learn and to have fun. I have no problem spending more money when possible to get the best quality parts, but saving money when possible is also fun. Most of the parts I have bought have been OE quality, Mann, Bosch, etc. It was a mistake to change the radial-rod to frame bushings with Meyle, but I had damaged the Volvo bushing too much trying to remove it by the time I figured that out.

I also would like to keep it looking nice, both inside and under the hood. Maybe take it to a local show or two just for fun, if I can manage to fix up that body damage.

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Originally Posted by DagazEnterprise View Post
Great job on the attention to detail, i like where you are headed with this.

Thank you very much!
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Old 04-28-2020, 02:06 PM   #7
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Thank you to White855T, who nicely shared his method to refinish my original Volvo floor mats.

Before and after;



For anyone coming later, here is the procedure;

Quote:
Originally Posted by white855T View Post
Clean them very well using anything(like dawn dish soap). Rinse them and let them fully dry. Scuff them with 3m red scour pad. You can rinse off with water or air(if you have it available). Spray an adhesion promoter(follow directions). I hang these up which allows you to paint both sides. I have done them on the floor too. I'll paint the backside first and let it dry for 24hrs and then do the front side the next day.
I only painted the top side. I also have no access to red 3M pads (you have to be a pro or something), but I bought some Scotchbrite 'Heavy Duty' pots and pans scouring pads. I couldn't get into the squares very well, I gave up when it came to scouring the squares on the rear mats, but it seems okay. I used Duplicolor adhesion promoter and vinyl/plastic paint. I am super happy with how these turned out, as they were the weakest link in making the interior look like new.


I also picked up a set of 17" Arrakis wheels a while back, with the intention of hand sanding and painting;



I am no longer going to be hand sanding and painting these 27 spoke wheels. I just finished sanding and painting a set of 5-spoke for my winter subaru, and I do NOT want to attempt that with 27 spoke wheels. I found a guy who will media blastfor $25/wheel and powdercoat for $200/set. (CAD pricing too) I will just go that route, only looking to refinish them in original silver, wanted to refinish them due to some rash.

I've become some sort of Volvo wheel hoarder. I started by buying a set of used tires that included a set of 17" Tethys. Somehow that expanded into the Arrakis, a set of 17" Orestes with tires, the original wheels on the 940, and I'm still on the lookout for more. It's really hard to turn down $100-150 sets of OEM alloys. I've missed some great and some good deals too, like 4x Draco for $100, 4x Gemini for $600 w/no caps, and 4x Gemini with caps for $1000. Have my eye on 3x Cratos, I would like to get them for $75 if I could, and hope for a unicorn to come along later.

I also placed my order for the studs and nuts from the Volvo dealer. I got all new exhaust manifold/turbo/downpipe studs and nuts, and a new set of nuts for the intake manifold and TB, as well as an oil cooler gasket.

Some other parts on order;

Yoshifab -10AN drain fitting, -10AN drain hose, Inlet manifold isolators+studs, Td04-15g wastegate bracket and T3 wastegate actuator.

STS coolant pipe and adjustable timing gear.

Last edited by G-Tech 940; 04-28-2020 at 02:46 PM..
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Old 04-28-2020, 03:39 PM   #8
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Love to see another 944 on the board!
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Old 04-28-2020, 08:26 PM   #9
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Glad to see someone else putting effort into Arrikis wheels. Something a little different works!
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Old 05-15-2020, 12:26 AM   #10
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I did some more of this silly painting. I can't help but feel it looks tacky, but I still kinda like it haha.



I use paint markers like these:




I applied some great stickers that I had made up by our favourite sticker guy:



My Uro replacement bottle had a black sticker, now I have a nice original green one
-------



Great looking Bendix replacement label for the remanufactured booster.
-------



Ignition coil before
-------



Paint brackets and bolt/screws
-------



Apply repro sticker (looks crooked but is not)
-------



Ignition coil after
-------




Removed timing belt cover to refinish, but might be getting a replacement that is not broken.
-------


I decided to do a compression test. I have never done one before, but I bought a Snap-On tester (from I think 1962) a while back and wanted to try. I know that you're supposed to do the test warm for best results, but I thought I would try to do it cold and see how it looked, as I heard if there is no problem when testing cold, then there shouldn't be once it's warm and things expand either. I did not have anyone to help me with the throttle, so I took off the big hose on the barb on the intake manifold. (I forget what it is now, think it's the idle valve) I understand this alleviates the pressure in the manifold so there is no pressure buildup during the test.



The plugs looked black and sooty. maybe a bit of oil but mostly on the threads not the electrodes. Maybe a bit of oil on cyl 2 and 3 electrodes. I have replacements (and cords) but will wait until I change out the manifold gaskets to swap them in. Plug gaps were all above spec, between 0.89mm and 0.95mm, I bent them down closer to 0.8mm.







All 4 cylinders tested very well, all above 150psi, 3 were close to/at 155 and one was 157! I know the photo says 150, but I didn't wan't to crank the 50 year old hose too tight down so it did leak a tiny bit (or maybe it's old O-rings on the gauge). I was watching the numbers through the windshield as i was turning the key.



---------------




I chased the sparkplug holes with a sparkplug tap to clean the threads. I did cylinder 1 and 2, and 99% of what I got on the tap was just the dirt that I wanted to get, but the 1% that was metal flakes freaked me out enough to not do cyl 3 and 4 yet, I wanted to see how it ran first. It ran well, so I will have to go back and chase 3 and 4 later.

I started the car back up after and it ran well, except the Electric puller fan never turned on so the coolant got really hot. The temp reading in the car dash never went much beyond half (but it did move up a little bit). The upper coolant hose as well as the plastic radiator end tanks got too hot to hold, and the coolant bottle level went past max almost to the cap. I had the car running for maybe 10-15 minutes. The thermostat definitely opened. Any ideas? It has been a couple months since I had it running, and I don't remember if the E-fan ever worked. Not sure how to test it. I checked the connection at the relay by the battery, but haven't looked at it any more yet.

-------------

And now... A mystery!





Both of these wiper nut dust covers were pulled off a 940. The smaller one was off my '92 940 Sedan. The larger one came from a '93 940 Wagon.

They are both front wiper nut dust covers.

I am wondering, did they switch design from 92 to 93? Or did I somehow end up with 240 wipers? Becuase the smaller clip does seem like the 240 one being sold on ebay:


Last edited by G-Tech 940; 05-15-2020 at 09:36 AM..
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Old 05-15-2020, 03:14 AM   #11
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Could be different caps based on the elongated hood design, good example is the 760 hood vs the standard 740 hood.
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Old 05-15-2020, 05:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Tech 940 View Post
I did some more of this silly painting. I can't help but feel it looks tacky, but I still kinda like it haha.



I use paint markers like these:




I applied some great stickers that I had made up by our favourite sticker guy:



My Uro replacement bottle had a black sticker, now I have a nice original green one
-------



Great looking Bendix replacement label for the remanufactured booster.
-------



Ignition coil before
-------



Paint brackets and bolt/screws
-------



Apply repro sticker (looks crooked but is not)
-------



Ignition coil after
-------




Removed timing belt cover to refinish, but might be getting a replacement that is not broken.
-------


I decided to do a compression test. I have never done one before, but I bought a Snap-On tester (from I think 1962) a while back and wanted to try. I know that you're supposed to do the test warm for best results, but I thought I would try to do it cold and see how it looked, as I heard if there is no problem when testing cold, then there shouldn't be once it's warm and things expand either. I did not have anyone to help me with the throttle, so I took off the big hose on the barb on the intake manifold. (I forget what it is now, think it's the idle valve) I understand this alleviates the pressure in the manifold so there is no pressure buildup during the test.



The plugs looked black and sooty. maybe a bit of oil but mostly on the threads not the electrodes. Maybe a bit of oil on cyl 2 and 3 electrodes. I have replacements (and cords) but will wait until I change out the manifold gaskets to swap them in. Plug gaps were all above spec, between 0.89mm and 0.95mm, I bent them down closer to 0.8mm.







All 4 cylinders tested very well, all above 150psi, 3 were close to/at 155 and one was 157! I know the photo says 150, but I didn't wan't to crank the 50 year old hose too tight down so it did leak a tiny bit (or maybe it's old O-rings on the gauge). I was watching the numbers through the windshield as i was turning the key.



---------------




I chased the sparkplug holes with a sparkplug tap to clean the threads. I did cylinder 1 and 2, and 99% of what I got on the tap was just the dirt that I wanted to get, but the 1% that was metal flakes freaked me out enough to not do cyl 3 and 4 yet, I wanted to see how it ran first. It ran well, so I will have to go back and chase 3 and 4 later.

I started the car back up after and it ran well, except the Electric puller fan never turned on so the coolant got really hot. The temp reading in the car dash never went much beyond half (but it did move up a little bit). The upper coolant hose as well as the plastic radiator end tanks got too hot to hold, and the coolant bottle level went past max almost to the cap. I had the car running for maybe 10-15 minutes. The thermostat definitely opened. Any ideas? It has been a couple months since I had it running, and I don't remember if the E-fan ever worked. Not sure how to test it. I checked the connection at the relay by the battery, but haven't looked at it any more yet.

-------------

And now... A mystery!





Both of these wiper nut dust covers were pulled off a 940. The smaller one was off my '92 940 Sedan. The larger one came from a '93 940 Wagon.

They are both front wiper nut dust covers.

I am wondering, did they switch design from 92 to 93? Or did I somehow end up with 240 wipers? Becuase the smaller clip does seem like the 240 one being sold on ebay:

Please tell me the range and brand of this plugs. They seems to be wrong.
The pics aren't very good to have a closer look, still the wrong plugs from my experience.

Good luck, Kay
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Old 05-15-2020, 09:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone View Post
Please tell me the range and brand of this plugs. They seems to be wrong.
The pics aren't very good to have a closer look, still the wrong plugs from my experience.

Good luck, Kay
Do you mean the spark plugs? They were Volvo brand. I didn't see any model marking (they're back in the car now, but you can kinda see some of a model number on one of the pics) but they looked the exact same as the ones I bought to replace, from IPD or FCP, using the car model.

The third and fourth pics I took with the plug still held in the socket, could that be why it looks weird?

I can change the plug pics so they're bigger, but I didn't want to use the big pics for every pic as this thread is already pretty picture heavy. (I'll do the larger pics now, maybe change it back later)

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Old 05-15-2020, 02:36 PM   #14
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I just went outside and checked, my '93 944 with foglights has the larger style wiper arm nut cap. Seems like it could be a year to year revision. Good work so far!
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Old 05-28-2020, 11:35 PM   #15
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Apologies in advance for a lame update, not much accomplished but a lot of time spent, so I do want to document it.

Quote:
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I just went outside and checked, my '93 944 with foglights has the larger style wiper arm nut cap. Seems like it could be a year to year revision. Good work so far!
Thank you very much! I ended up going back and grabbing the wiper arms to go with the nuts.

Grabbed a ton of other goodies, mostly interior stuff, but also a spare Bosch 100A. Also a K&N Fliter that has its edges a bit chewed, but I will try to see if I can make it work.

I did get an airbox base that has only 1 clip broken, so that was nice.

Unfortunately missed out on the steering wheel as it had a stripped torx screw (meaning I couldnt get at the stalks either) and the in tank pump as I couldn't get it out of the hatch, I tried for about 45 minutes.

-----------------------------------

I decided to finally tackle the fuel filter on my car. I had bought a replacement Mann filter a while back, but couldn't find the proper hose to replace the one on the car (hose clamps had to be cut). Eventually I settled on the 1/2" that I could get.

As usual, I forgot to take a proper 'before' pic. However my hands were covered in petrol and rustproofing goo, I didn't think about taking that pic until the parts were already half sandblasted. I didn't end up cleaning the fuel pump aside from a wipe, so you can see how much gunk was covering everything;


---------------------

Here is the sandblaster I was using;


-----------------------

Blasted and ready for primer;


------------------------

Primer drying on nature's drying rack;


--------------------------------

Painted black with Tremclad Rust paint, ready to re-assemble!


-------------------------------

Forgot my nuts! I realized I hadn't painted these;



Decided to give them a vinegar bath overnight and scrub before painting them.


Then I looked at the copper O-rings I had from IPD. I think there were supposed to be Turbo Oil line rings but they were the same size. Well, both O-rings I received from IPD turned out to be bent... Good thing I ordered a new set from FCP yesterday.. But that means I probably won't be able to finish assembly for another 2 weeks, unless I re-use the ones that came off (one was missing or was lost anyways)
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Old 05-30-2020, 04:52 PM   #16
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Anyone have book on Rebuilding or diagrams of the M47 trans ? Thanks folks
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Old 05-31-2020, 06:32 AM   #17
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A steady pace wins the race ; ), thanks for all the pictures, I enjoyed following along.
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Old 06-09-2020, 04:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
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A steady pace wins the race ; ), thanks for all the pictures, I enjoyed following along.
Thanks!

Finally got my FCP order in with the new Fuel filter o-rings and the Moly.


Finished Vinegar soaking the bolts;



and painted them;



Assembled the cage;



Probably a bad idea, but I decided to put the moly in between the pump/filter clamps and the cage assembly. Hoped it would keep water from getting in there and rusting, at least for a while.



I replaced the Pump->Filter line. The original Volvo one was still intact, but I figured I would swap it anyways. I did save the original should I need an extra one in the future. I also saw a home-made repair on a J/Y one, where the guy had clamped a new piece of hose between the two barbs.



Attached to the car and found there were 2 leaks. One was a hose clamp from the tank line to the pump. The other was the banjo bolt from the filter to the fuel rail. Ended up catching a faceful of gas spray when I loosened the Banjo Bolt to re-adjust the rubber hose. I prefer the flavor of 91 octane, this was only 87 :(



Attached and all finished! I'm really happy. This is such a minor replacement/refit but I was happy to take my time and do it how I felt would be good. Hopefully I didn't harm anything long-term.

Tomorrow I will be looking at changing the Coolant Temp Sensor that's plugged into the head. My LH 2.4 E-Fan is not turning on, this will be my first attempt at getting it going. Hoping not to have to replace the big, expensive relay near the battery tray. I don't really know how to use a multimeter to test it properly, I read the threads on here but was scared off someone saying I would ruin the plug if I tested it the wrong way (something to do with front probing or back probing)
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Old 07-28-2020, 07:24 PM   #19
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FINALLY. It's done. This is probably small potatoes for most of you but this was a big job for me that included a lot of struggle and a lot of delay.

I had to replace my exhaust manifold gasket. There was one (turned out two) gaskets that were blown out, and it sounded TERRIBLE.

I also had a bunch of parts to install at the same time. New coolant bottle, 15G turbo (which I had to reclock), studs everywhere (I wanted to renew them all, partially a bad idea). Also a new distributor cap and rotor and some spark plugs. New coolant and oil feed and drain hoses, and a Yoshifab 10AN oil drain adapter.


^My reference photo for before I removede the lines. You can see the blown out gasket in the upper right.^


^Turbo Disassembly for RWD clocking - 13C on the right for reference.^


^I tried for 45 mins to pull the locater pin out of the compressor side, but couldn't so I ground it off.^


^Couldn't get the oil filter off on the car, had to pull the whole arm off.^


^Naturally I took the opportunity to clean it off and replace the two gasket seals.^


^Everything off and out. I really should have taken the time to clean this side of the head better, but I was so excited to finish the hard part that I just went right into re-assembly.^


^Did I say finished the hard part? I broke the cylinder 1 stud using barely any torque on it. Called the stud guy to remove.^


^turbo oil drain - before and after Yoshifab drain install^






^The Kinugawa coolant lines (not pictured) did not come with the correct banjo bolt fittings, so I had to re-use mine from the 13C.^




^Installed and running! I also replaced the plug wire clips, valve cover nuts, and cleaned up the valve cover.^

Overall the job was not too difficult yet there were many difficult elements to it. I snapped a couple other studs and had to wait for more parts to come in, the most painful was when I was done everything, but when I went to go change the thermostat, I stripped the nut on the bottom stud of the thermostat housing. That nut never came off, I had to chisel it away and eventually somehow the stud gave up and backed out. Then I had to wait 8 days for a new stud! (I know I could have used a valve cover stud but I didnt want to)
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Old 07-29-2020, 09:22 AM   #20
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I have never had an oil filter stuck on so badly but I know others have. Nice detailing! Where about in Ontario are you located?
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Old 07-29-2020, 09:46 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by smoothdurban View Post
I have never had an oil filter stuck on so badly but I know others have. Nice detailing! Where about in Ontario are you located?
Thanks!

The filter stood up to my strap wrench and channel locks. What got it for me in the end was gently prying around the seal with a flathead screwdriver, and spraying some PB B'laster around the seal. I felt like the frickin HULK when I eventually got it to turn, arm clamped in a bench vice and just using my hands (it was still too much for my ****ty strap wrench)

I'm in the west end of the GTHA, in the Hamilton/Burlington/Waterdown area. Shame about the CVC Family day :( Would have been my first time going.
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Old 08-07-2020, 07:47 PM   #22
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lotta good work will take your marker tip, very detailed and nice cleaning!
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Old 09-11-2020, 10:32 AM   #23
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Just replaced all of the coolant hoses with new Volvo hoses and Norma hose clamps. Put in a new GMC Safari heater valve at the same time;




I was trying to chase a coolant leak. A couple hoses didn't really need changing, but figured I would do them at the same time while I had the coolant drained.

Turns out the leak was actually the block heater below cylinder #4. Looks like a beast of a job to fix. I think I'm going to have to pull the turbo and exhaust manifold to be able to get it replaced I think. I would much rather put in a $4 freeze plug, but I am seeing that they are no longer available and that the aftermarket ones are leaky.

The screw-in dorman style rubber plug seems the easiest option but also like only a temporary solution with all the heat in that area.

I don't have any replacement copper nuts for the manifold or the downpipe. I'm okay to just re-use the ones that are on there now right? Don't really want to pay for shipping from the US, or buying the new expensive ones from Volvo. They are new nuts that I installed only a few months ago with some good anti-seize (but just hand-torqued).

Last edited by G-Tech 940; 09-11-2020 at 12:49 PM..
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Old 09-11-2020, 10:27 PM   #24
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Yes you can reuse the nuts
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