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Old 04-22-2017, 06:38 PM   #76
soclosenotnear
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I bolted the exhaust manifold up with fresh gaskets. Got the crank pulley installed along with all the accessory belts tensioned correctly. I also put new terminals on the wires that go to the oil pressure sender and got that squared away. Literally the only thing holding me up is getting this 16t squared away.
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:29 AM   #77
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If you pulled the HB off the crank, take care with that centre bolt. IIRC, you must torque to a set point (say 125#-ft) and then pull it another angular rotation. It takes a LOT of leverage to get this done..... I put a 3 foot pipe on a breaker bar. Measure twice, cut once........
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:07 AM   #78
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If you pulled the HB off the crank, take care with that centre bolt. IIRC, you must torque to a set point (say 125#-ft) and then pull it another angular rotation. It takes a LOT of leverage to get this done..... I put a 3 foot pipe on a breaker bar. Measure twice, cut once........
I put the car in fourth gear and put my weight behind it. I probably should put a pipe on there just to make certain it's there. I'll do some research into the torque specs.
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Old 06-01-2017, 07:14 PM   #79
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Probably set a record for longest length of time for a 16t swap, probably 4 months. But it is finally running in the car.

I sent my straight flange housing to a board member to weld a v band to it for me. I haven't heard from him now in three weeks so I can only assume it is a lost cause. So that's what's held me up the last month.

I ended up grabbing a conical housing from a buddy and slapped it on my 16t turbo. It had more play than I would like, but seems to be boosting with no issue. I clocked it, bolted it on, and got all my flexible stainless lines situated. The only problem I ran into was that I had to move the oil filter relocation arm up a smidge since the yoshifab oil return fitting and line went directly toward the oil filter.

After I got everything together, I poured oil in the car. I filled the overflow tank up with coolant. I pulled the coil wire off and cranked the car a couple times to get the oil flowing. I plugged the coil wire back in and was happy to see her fire up easily and idle nicely. I learned afterward, that I should have filled the block up with coolant through the radiator hose because the car began to overheat. It wouldn't suck the coolant down quickly enough. That was quickly remedies and now she seems to be holding temp just fine.

Now for the real problems. I am still smelling oil burning somewhere, though I see no obvious leaks. What a drag. I need to get under the car with a light and investigate farther.

The other problem is on the wastegate only, it hits 7-8psi and immediately starts creeping to 10-12-15psi. It'd probably keep rolling if I stayed in the pedal. Gotta figure that out.

Right now, I'm just ecstatic that it's off ramps and is mobile again. It seems to be running fine, so now it's just fine tune adjustments.

Only picture of the day, after a long awaited trip to the car wash -


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Old 06-04-2017, 03:46 PM   #80
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So, I also had a new check engine light. I used the lh2.4 diagnostic box to figure out it was from my oxygen sensor. I quickly realized I never snugged down the O2 sensor. Fixed that and tried to clear the code with lh2.4 box. I couldn't get it to clear so disconnected the battery. That did the trick. Put a good bit of miles on her today and no cel.

I got a light and checked all around. No signs of moisture anywhere from leaks except above the water pump. It's only damp, so not sure if it's oil or coolant. I hope that's my only leak on the car.

Now for the boost creep. I did some research and decided I needed to loosen my wastegate. I loosened the set screw and gave it a full revolution looser. I tightened it all back down. It's now hitting about 7 psi and only creeps to 10-11ish psi by the top of the rev range. Is this stable enough to add a manual boost controller? Or do I still have some issue? I read increased exhaust flow will just naturally cause this creep but I've never dealt with it before.
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:44 PM   #81
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Also, my high idle issue referenced earlier in this thread is still an annoying issue.

And I didn't mention, the wasps. I cleared several small hives from the door jambs and wheel wells. Today, I noticed this. So much for my headlights being air/water tight.





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Old 06-06-2017, 06:45 AM   #82
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Now for the boost creep. I did some research and decided I needed to loosen my wastegate. I loosened the set screw and gave it a full revolution looser. I tightened it all back down. It's now hitting about 7 psi and only creeps to 10-11ish psi by the top of the rev range. Is this stable enough to add a manual boost controller? Or do I still have some issue? I read increased exhaust flow will just naturally cause this creep but I've never dealt with it before.
Adjusting your WG rod tension only changes the threshold pressure of boost where it opens.

If you've truly got boost creep, then your turbo is producing more boost than the engine can consume, which results in a slow rise in system pressure.

The Garrett T3 that I ran the last 5 years boosted a steady 16 psi and I never experienced creep.... but it also had a well ported WG opening (nicely blended and only about 1mm from the edge of the flapper all around). Is your turbine housing & WG setup stock?
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:54 AM   #83
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Yes, turbine housing and wastegate are very stock. I read about porting the opening to assist the air flow, naturally after getting the install done. I didn't do everything how I originally planned since a forum member ran off with my straight flange housing.

Will a boost controller help stabilize this any? Or do I need to work the housing and waste gate hole?
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:35 AM   #84
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I realize this isn't a cheap option, but I run a turbosmart e-boost street electronic boost controller like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Turbosmart-TS.../dp/B004PPVTRY

You can really tailor setting with it; not just max boost, but gate pressure for spoolup and the response of the solenoid as it bleeds off pressure. I'm running ~14.5# and as I have it set up now it doesn't spike and only fluctuates around .5 psi. I have it down below the radio which looks good and since it's so stable, I don't really need to have it higher. If I wanted, I can set up my AEM failsafe wb gauge that's in my left vent to display boost.



I had a t3/t4 in my old 744t and I had the wastegate port opened up and it still spiked 2-3 psi when set for about 15psi. But yeah, porting does help some. Oh and don't use a bleed type mbc if they even sell them anymore. I had a TurboXS bleed type mbc and it was horrible, then I got a decent ball and valve mbc and it worked a lot better.
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:15 AM   #85
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I'd add the mbc and see what happens. It's easy enough to do and will probably help plus make it easy to adjust boost level up or down. Car looks great...I'm in the white 940T club also!
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Old 06-06-2017, 05:42 PM   #86
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I've never had a problem maintaining a constant boost pressure with my $15 MBC. It is a ball and spring type. But anytime I've read threads on here about boost level problems, the first thing everyone says is "get rid of your boost controller" and "what does it do on the wastegate alone". So my thoughts were to get it running correctly before adding more boost. But I tend to agree with you guys at this point. I'll plumb it in on Thursday when I have a day off and see if it stabilizes. While I would love to have the ability to make adjustments in situ, that kind of money is not in the cards for me right now, or would be better spent elsewhere anyways.

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Car looks great...I'm in the white 940T club also!
Thanks a bunch.

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Old 06-08-2017, 06:40 PM   #87
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Got my manual boost controller installed. I didn't touch it after taking it off the 13c. It was making a stable 14 psi on that turbo. I took her for a spin. In first and second gear, this is what I observed. Boost ramps up to 15-16 psi but then actually settles in at the 14 psi target. But, by 6k+ rpms, boost had risen to 18ish psi.

I was too scared to push the m47 hard in third gear just yet though. Because.. she is fast. Not really, but much faster than she was. It actually feels"light on its feet" for the first time. I'll eventually run it hard through all the gears but can only imagine the boost creep will be worse in higher gears.
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:04 PM   #88
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Nice 940, very tastefully done and I read your progress with interest - we have a 1994 945T that is also being slowly modified, staying with the auto transmission though. Something you might want to consider is that matrix oil cooler, Volvo more or less went cheap on that over the older 740 turbos with their separate oil cooler mounted up by the radiator.


In the process of mounting a 1992 - 94 960 cooler ( mounted under the lower radiator support ), you also need the earlier oil filter adapter housing and then have some oil lines made up. The problem with those integrated oil coolers is that they can fail leading to coolant mixing with the oil and of course the coolant hoses themselves. I should add that you also need the metal feed pipe at the back of the water pump from a 2/7/900 series non turbo ( or earlier turbo 740 ) and the coolant drain petcock or similar sized plug as the later 940T used both the pipe and the coolant drain location as circulation points for the oil cooler.


That 960 oil cooler fits perfectly with no modifications - hoping to have ours set up soon.


Also, you might want to try locating a pair of aluminum forged control arms, saves a good amount of weight - need the later style sway bar links as well. Just suggestions of course - the 1995+ control arm reinforcing plates are a good idea too, good to see you installed those.

It never hurts to spend more money, right?

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Old 06-11-2017, 04:43 PM   #89
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Nice 940, very tastefully done and I read your progress with interest - we have a 1994 945T that is also being slowly modified, staying with the auto transmission though. Something you might want to consider is that matrix oil cooler, Volvo more or less went cheap on that over the older 740 turbos with their separate oil cooler mounted up by the radiator.


In the process of mounting a 1992 - 94 960 cooler ( mounted under the lower radiator support ), you also need the earlier oil filter adapter housing and then have some oil lines made up. The problem with those integrated oil coolers is that they can fail leading to coolant mixing with the oil and of course the coolant hoses themselves. I should add that you also need the metal feed pipe at the back of the water pump from a 2/7/900 series non turbo ( or earlier turbo 740 ) and the coolant drain petcock or similar sized plug as the later 940T used both the pipe and the coolant drain location as circulation points for the oil cooler.


That 960 oil cooler fits perfectly with no modifications - hoping to have ours set up soon.


Also, you might want to try locating a pair of aluminum forged control arms, saves a good amount of weight - need the later style sway bar links as well. Just suggestions of course - the 1995+ control arm reinforcing plates are a good idea too, good to see you installed those.

It never hurts to spend more money, right?
Thanks for the kind words. I do believe I've finally gotten my oil cooler situation leak free but thanks for the suggestion. I'll keep that in mind if it ever becomes an issue again. I didn't want to go to an older setup because I didn't want to swap radiator,intercooler, etc to bolt in the older oil cooler, but that 960 placement sounds good.

I've never heard of the aluminum control arms, but found this interesting thread on the subject:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=203440

It seems their is controversy on if they are strong enough for larger sway bars.


Now that I've gotten a couple hundred miles on the car, she is driving very well. Boost feels good through all gears. Pulls well to 6k. Sat in traffic for a half hour yesterday, and car behaved well.

Besides what i mentioned a couple posts back, she is still facing a sporadic high idle issue. While tinkering under the hood today, I discovered this.



Notice the corrosion. I replaced a leaky t valve thing for the windshield wiper fluid already. I imagine this ground strap has been getting leaked on for some time. Also, not hooked up to anything. Unbolted the 10mm nut holding the other side and discovered this.



Neither end was hooked up. It was only bolted on at the firewall. It's been in rough shape for a long while it looks like.



Anyways, where do these get bolted to? Intake and exhaust manifolds? They are not present on our 90 745 turbo, nor is the black box they connect to..

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Old 06-11-2017, 05:08 PM   #90
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They hook up to the two rear bolts on the valve cover one on either side.
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Old 06-11-2017, 09:41 PM   #91
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They hook up to the two rear bolts on the valve cover one on either side.
Any idea what they're for?
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:25 AM   #92
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Any idea what they're for?
Cylinder head sensor grounds..... as he said, they go on each side of the back set of tiny valve cover studs. Many things on these engines have 0-5 VDC sensor, and you can't have too much ground back to the battery. The Volvo electrical engineers put them there for a reason.
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:52 AM   #93
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Cylinder head sensor grounds..... as he said, they go on each side of the back set of tiny valve cover studs. Many things on these engines have 0-5 VDC sensor, and you can't have too much ground back to the battery. The Volvo electrical engineers put them there for a reason.
This is good news, as several people have mentioned my high idle could have been caused by the engine coolant temp sensor. I've replaced it to no avail. But maybe it needs those better grounds. Will report back.
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:26 PM   #94
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Repaired it and reinstalled. I went for a test drive and tried to make my high idle happen. Unfortunately, it eventually presented itself, so no change. Back to the drawing board (boost leak?). In other news, I love driving a boosted car again, especially with the 16t.
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Old 06-15-2017, 06:34 PM   #95
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I'm having the same high idle issue after driving hard for a while. Idk what it could be.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:35 AM   #96
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I'm a 200 series guy but if I was to go to the dark side this car might do the trick.. Nice work man..

-Sam
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:42 AM   #97
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I'm having the same high idle issue after driving hard for a while. Idk what it could be.
check your throttle switch and throttle cable tension. you want the throttle cable to not hold the throttle open, and you want the TPS to click pretty much as soon as the spool starts to move.

intermittent throttle hang to me sounds like something may be binding up or hanging occasionally.

Something else to check, this happened to me once, is the screws on the throttle plate got loose and it would stick partially open occasionally.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:02 PM   #98
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I'm a 200 series guy but if I was to go to the dark side this car might do the trick.. Nice work man..

-Sam
Thanks for the kind words. We need more converts around here. In stock form, the 240 really is a more enjoyable driving experience. But with suspension work, I enjoy driving our 7/9s and the comfort/space/quietness is really nice. I wouldn't mind having a(nother) 240 nonetheless.


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check your throttle switch and throttle cable tension. you want the throttle cable to not hold the throttle open, and you want the TPS to click pretty much as soon as the spool starts to move.

intermittent throttle hang to me sounds like something may be binding up or hanging occasionally.

Something else to check, this happened to me once, is the screws on the throttle plate got loose and it would stick partially open occasionally.
These are good suggestions that I haven't looked into yet. Hopefully I can pop the hood this weekend and tinker with them. I'll search how to check tension and tps.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:06 PM   #99
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you adjust the tension with the red plastic 'screw' on the throttle cable body where it clips into the metal retainer. may need a wrench, normally you can adjust that by hand. you can take the cable off the spool to see if it's holding the throttle open, or you can look at the spool to see if it's being pulled away from the stop (which is up top)
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Old 07-08-2017, 09:00 PM   #100
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I'm very sore about photobucket. I think I got all of my pictures off there, but am really not sure as I'm only ever using my telephone to do all this. I'm gonna try and figure out imgur and get all these pictures, and others, edited in. Here's the test:

http://i.imgur.com/0wMzbDk.jpg

Edit: And no dice

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