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240 FCP timing kits

Buy the kit with the Contitech timing belt. If you aren't running an interference cam, there is no reason to pay 6 times the price of the OEM belt for the Gates belt.
 
Awesome thanks. I can get the gates belt locally for 30$ but still may be more than is needed. As I am sure the cam is stock. So not sure if its interference or not.
 
Luckily the belt has not broken but I want to get it done as the car has sat for 5 years without being driven. I will be replacing the seals also and the drive belts also. Any idea how to check if the PCV system needs to be replaced or should I just do it also?
 
Spend the extra money on genuine Volvo engine seals. The Elring stuff has let me down the last couple of years. Doesn't fit correctly in the cam location causing leaks is what happened to me.
 
Where do I pick up volvo seals from local volvo dealer? or can I find them online? I was looking for a kit that came with everything and thought this on seemed ok.
 
Agreed on the OEM seals. Elring is junk these days. You will thank yourself in 6-12 months.

I've run the conti belt's for a while, but started running the gates since I've had several conti belts that were VERY noisy. No mechanical issues, just a constant chirp that the Gates don't make. Stock gears, new tensioner, made no difference.
 
dl242gt said:
Spend the extra money on genuine Volvo engine seals. The Elring stuff has let me down the last couple of years. Doesn't fit correctly in the cam location causing leaks is what happened to me.
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I use Victor Reinz gaskets and seals on most seal repairs with good success, especially on the rear main of my buddy's '87 244. Any opinions of Victor Reinz seals?
 
Ok another noob question from me. Is it possible to change the timing belt and seals without the IPD crank pulley tool. If so how much harder is it?
 
Pappy325 said:
Ok another noob question from me. Is it possible to change the timing belt and seals without the IPD crank pulley tool. If so how much harder is it?
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There are a couple of different ways to do it without the tool.

If you have room, an impact will buzz the bolt right out. Some guys block the flywheel with a screw driver. Some guys stuff rope into the #1 cyl to block the crank. I've used a muffler clamp and la length of chain wrapped around the sway bar ( on a 240) with success. Normally I just sacrifice a screw driver and wedge it through the holes in the pulley and put it against the block. Seems to work ok for me.
 
Ok so i can just use a cheapo screw driver and stick it in the hole and against the block and be good. I would rather not pay the 50$ for the tool but I will if I really need it.
 
Pappy325 said:
Ok so i can just use a cheapo screw driver and stick it in the hole and against the block and be good. I would rather not pay the 50$ for the tool but I will if I really need it.
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Having done a couple I'd say do yourself a favor and get an air impact wrench. Tried the screwdriver on a B230. Tried the tool on a '07 B5254. Much cursing, grumbling, fighting, and irritation. Never got the 5254's bolt off. Borrowed the neighbor's air impact wrench- easy going.
 
The rope is whst i used. Just get some nice soft rope and jam that sht in thru a spark plug. Motor Oil works too- it hydrolocks it - with oil... but im not sure how youd get that oil out haha. As for the bolts being on there tighter than almost any others in the engine the double wrench trick worked for me. Also- a nice strap wrench might be able to grip the pully it well enough.
 
don't shove some filthy rope in your engine. Don't cut corners and pry the flywheel with a screwdriver, you COULD bust a tooth. Use the proper tool. If your car is manual, just put it in 5th and set the brake.

I use a 24mm IMPACT socket, a 2 foot high quality 1/2" drive breaker bar, then a 4 ft section of pipe. You have to torque it down properly too, or you will be like the tbricker that saw his crank pulley as a pedestrian in the crosswalk.

Impact gun will require pulling the radiator probably too. And they don't always put out consistent torque. Especially if battery powered.
 
Not sure if it'll work on a 240, but the 7/9's you can put a socket and breaker bar onto the bolt, run it against the driver side frame rail, and just bump the starter for a split second. Breaks that bolt loose every time. Still have to retorque when you're done though. Buy the tool from IPD for $40 and be done with it.
 
This is one of those questions where, if you have to ask, it is very likely you should do this by the book, using the "expensive tool."

However, if you are already conversant with what goes on inside of a 4 cycle engine, and are just looking for a means of counterholding the crank against both removal AND installation for correct torque, you can use the cheaper tool. But understanding what you are doing is important. If you are a procedure-follower, this one is probably not for you.

hattrick945.jpg
 
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