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Old 05-16-2007, 04:56 PM   #1
Turborg
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Default Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder for My 242

This cylinder has some promise for replacing my manual setup. The duel diaphram clutch is turning into a pain, and I would love for my 242 clutch to work as effortlessly as my 122 hydraulic clutch. http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...1-SC/index.asp

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Old 05-16-2007, 08:58 PM   #2
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Old 05-17-2007, 12:24 AM   #3
Hank Scorpio
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The 260 had a hydro clutch. You should be able to get the MC, pop out the plate thats already there and get a little custom with the bracket on the pedal.
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Old 05-17-2007, 09:06 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio View Post
The 260 had a hydro clutch. You should be able to get the MC, pop out the plate thats already there and get a little custom with the bracket on the pedal.
I'll have to see I can find the parts. With this slave cylinder, I think the lower end of the conversion would be pretty easy. The price for the slave cylinder is $80 so it is pretty reasonable.
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Old 05-17-2007, 11:06 PM   #5
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If you are going custom with the pedal anyways (as opposed to finding a 260 clutch pedal, as easy as finding hen's teeth), I would recommend using the Wilwood m/c.

Advantages are:
1.) The 3/8"-24 outlet (IIRC) vs a metric thread - easy to go to -3 AN line
2.) 3 different bore sizes vs .750"
3.) You can put a rod end to connect it to the pedal, vs whatever double shear u bracket that the Volvo part uses.
4.) Probably less expensive, can buy new ones on Ebay.
5.) Can buy rebuild kit cheap.

I put one in my car, I'll try to get pics up. The bolt pattern is the same, or very nearly, as the Wilwood one is based on the Girling unit anyway.

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Old 05-17-2007, 11:07 PM   #6
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Oh yeah, if you've got the scratch, hydraulic throw out bearing is super nice.
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Old 05-17-2007, 11:51 PM   #7
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well, this is one pic that I have ready, the others I have to shrink. Shows a normal 240 pedal modified to work with the wilwood m/c, attached via rod end and clevis pin. I have since cut the top tab off. (the cable tab)


Last edited by Greg Wong; 04-30-2017 at 01:37 AM..
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Old 05-18-2007, 03:49 PM   #8
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Default Hydraulic Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Wong View Post
Oh yeah, if you've got the scratch, hydraulic throw out bearing is super nice.
This is true but you have to pull the trans to install one.
With the Wilwood slave cylinder and the Wilwood MC(good suggestion! I have one on the brakes on my 122s) I can do the conversion without taking the drive line out. Then next clutch replacement, the hydraulic throwout bearing would be super easy. The fact that the Wilwood slave cylinder is a "puller" like the present cable set-up, should make for an easy conversion under the car. Good info on doing the clutch pedal as I had planned on using mine. I have yet to see a manual 260 anywhere!
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Old 05-18-2007, 11:57 PM   #9
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Ok, here's a bunch of pics I took along the way. I hope you find some of use.

The deal with the wilwood "small brake/clutch" m/c is that it has a -3 AN female outlet, but it is too deep for a normal -3 male-male union. So the m/c comes with this adapter, which comes out as a 3/8"-24 female inverted flare fitting.


Also, my HTOB came with -4 fittings and line. So I bought a union that was 3/8"-24 male inverted flare to -4 AN. Problem is that this is cumbersome, ugly, and it would hit the firewall. See pic:


Another problem, the adapter that the m/c comes with is really a -3 long, to reach the deep hole. No one sells -3 long to -4 unions. Earl's does make a -3 to -4 bulkhead fitting, so I got one of those, and machined it down so that it was the same depth as the wilwood fitting. It works great.

The bottom part is the wilwood piece to the 3/8-24 to -4 union. See how much longer it would be.


Machining. Oh yeah, the wilwood fitting has what seems to be a 45° angle on the tip. I put a normal 37° on mine. Seals fine. It does appear that the angle in the m/c itself is actually 45°.






Tilton hydraulic throw out bearing on a T-5 transmission. (This is for my V8 240)


Under the dash. The spring is there temporarily because the clevis pin was too long. Also had to drill the 3 holes through the firewall because my car is a 90. Also trimmed the bracket where the pedal is touching, in the upper right of the pic. Turns out that it wasn't necessary, as the pedal stroke isn't that long, so now the pedal is closer to the firewall.


You need to make a pedal stop for the HTOB. I wasn't too crazy about drilling yet another hole, so I used an existing hole to mount the stop.




I started with the .750 bore, but it was too stiff. I have the .700 now, and it is very nice. Pedal stroke is still quite short, so I think I could go to the .625 bore to get even less effort, and it should still move enough fluid. With .625 bore, the clutch effort would probably be Honduh easy.

Good luck with your setup. I am wondering how easy it will be to set up the pull-type slave.

Greg

Last edited by Greg Wong; 04-30-2017 at 01:36 AM..
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Old 05-19-2007, 12:46 PM   #10
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Default Hydraulic set-up

Thanks for all the info and pics Greg! It takes a lot of the trial and error out for me.. I may wait til I change my clutch to do this. I have a stage III Spec with Clutchnet duel diaphram PP and it is too aggressive for everyday driving. thanks again for all the help! Harry
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