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Old 08-06-2007, 09:05 AM   #1
ferret
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Default Airbox vs. Cone Filter differences

I've been running a cone filter since I bought my car, never had any real problems with it other than it being a little louder. This weekend I bought an airbox, closed the hot side of it with some screws and hid my boost controller behind it.

No difference at all on the butt dyno whatsoever. The car is quieter now, the power seems to be identical at 14psi as it was with the cone, and the only noticable difference seems to be that the car doesn't run quite as hot when driving a long distance.

So has anyone done any real testing on this, like dyno comparisons? I'm tempted to if I have the time, because I think the airbox is better (or atleast the same).

Just my 2 cents
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Old 08-06-2007, 12:14 PM   #2
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Unless you're running a foam cone with some form of cold air box to keep it away from engine compartment heat, the OEM filter is really nice and big. If you're running a K&N style cone, consider the surface area of the cone to the surface area of a stocker. Just gut your airbox and enjoy.
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Old 08-06-2007, 12:21 PM   #3
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Trying to increase flow by going to cone...but doing nothing to isolate it from hot air from engine is not a good idea. Very ricerish to just do it to enjoy the spooling sound and reduced performance.
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Old 08-06-2007, 12:53 PM   #4
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And if it's a small cone instead of the largest beast you can possibly squeeze in there, it's not only sucking hot air(without a shield), but restricting flow because it has less surface area than the stock filter.

700 series airboxes can be made to work very nicely for a cheap CAI. Block off the hot air bit, take out the cover thing on the inside of the lower airbox, and pull out the cone that fits into the inlet on the side of the airbox.(is the 900 airbox the same? It might be.)
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:44 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
700 series airboxes can be made to work very nicely for a cheap CAI. Block off the hot air bit, take out the cover thing on the inside of the lower airbox, and pull out the cone that fits into the inlet on the side of the airbox.(is the 900 airbox the same? It might be.)
Yeah, I used a 700 one.. bolts are in different spots or something weird, but it worked fine. I unscrewed the 'flap' on the bottom, screwed the flap peice alone to the hot side and shut it permanently, and that's it. It works great and silences the car from my end a lot (some people might hate that but I got sick of the weird bypass noise). I could see how a ducting system would work well, but a CAI would be the same at that point.
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:57 PM   #6
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Look at the air intake part of the 700 box, there's a cone in there that restricts the size. Take it out and it will flow better, and be a little louder, but not nearly as loud as the cone. It'll be better.

You can't get much better than that for a basic intake setup on these.
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Old 08-06-2007, 04:03 PM   #7
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what about a cone with a heat sheild. thats what i have, the heat sheild is made from insulated sheet metal. you think this is doing anything for stopping hot air?
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Old 08-06-2007, 04:25 PM   #8
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heat shields don't really do anything. The heat is coming from the engine and the radiator heating up the engine air. You really need a snorkel of some sort, like every OEM car out there.
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Old 08-06-2007, 04:49 PM   #9
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what about a cone with a heat sheild. thats what i have, the heat sheild is made from insulated sheet metal. you think this is doing anything for stopping hot air?
Depends completely on what it looks like, and if it is pulling in cold air from anywhere... Picture?
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:12 PM   #10
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what can i do to improve this? i also used an hvac laser temp guage the one day and with the hood open the air temp diff was about 10 deg so it is doing something
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:43 PM   #11
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Just extend the aluminium upwards so it seals with the 'hood' when closed, and extend the rearmost baffle so it seals with the side of the engine bay. I'm presuming it's like the 240 where there're big holes at the front of that enclosure; and all your cold air from not-inside-the-engine-bay will come from there, once you've sealed-off the engine-bay.
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mullen1120 View Post
what can i do to improve this? i also used an hvac laser temp guage the one day and with the hood open the air temp diff was about 10 deg so it is doing something
very nice. looks like i have something to model after. is that an HID ballast i spot in the corner???
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:47 PM   #13
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lol it sure it. 6000k mCcullough's worth every penny
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:52 PM   #14
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it says on the ID plate 745, and the intercooler looks pre 90, im assuming you have quad headlights, how did you get HIDs? unless you have the 2 headlight design.
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:54 PM   #15
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it says on the ID plate 745, and the intercooler looks pre 90, im assuming you have quad headlights, how did you get HIDs? unless you have the 2 headlight design.
Or you could look in his sig...
That's the smallest HID ballast I have ever seen.
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:55 PM   #16
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745 means wagon, the intercooler better not be pre 90 lol. its the car in my sig though, and the HIDs came from ebay 9004 bulbs.
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:57 PM   #17
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no, i like wasting time. lol. i didnt see it at first, "show sig once per page"
it is small indeed. i guess il have to either complain about how i cant get them with a quad light design, or spend a rediculous amount for HIDs and the quad light shells you put them in.
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mullen1120 View Post
745 means wagon, the intercooler better not be pre 90 lol. its the car in my sig though, and the HIDs came from ebay 9004 bulbs.
i knew the 745 meant wagon, i was just stating the intercooler design has the openings on the top, i thot from 90 on they were in the middle side tanks of the intercooler?
anyway, i was assuming if it was pre 90 740 it had quads, but further inspection of your sig proved me wrong
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:00 PM   #19
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its not the ballest, heres the whole set up, the little black box in the upper left is what the high beams run off of since i got the bi-xenon HIDs
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:05 PM   #20
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no, i like wasting time. lol. i didnt see it at first, "show sig once per page"
it is small indeed. i guess il have to either complain about how i cant get them with a quad light design, or spend a rediculous amount for HIDs and the quad light shells you put them in.
you cant get HIDs for the sealed beam. if you want to get them tho you can convert your quad to the design like mine. im getting euro lamps soon and will be getting rid of mine, itll come with the entire mounting brackets and trim and they are brand spanking new i just bought them about a month ago (there not the ones in my sig which are sun faded) coners included too
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:25 PM   #21
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Awesome. Thats what I was thinking. How is the high/low beam?
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:45 PM   #22
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honestly there is very little difference between the high and low. its nothing like the difference from regular H4's. i only got the bi-xenons bc you need a high beem to pass inspection. either way HIDs are worth every penny, i cant tell you guys how much of a difference they make when driving at night.
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:47 PM   #23
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ther are HID's with motorised shrouds for H4's on Ebay Uk if that helps.
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:48 PM   #24
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Pishaw. Yeah I know. Thanks BB.
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Old 08-06-2007, 08:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
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i knew the 745 meant wagon, i was just stating the intercooler design has the openings on the top, i thot from 90 on they were in the middle side tanks of the intercooler?
anyway, i was assuming if it was pre 90 740 it had quads, but further inspection of your sig proved me wrong
You can buy non sealed beam quads for your car. Just fyi if you didnt know
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