Squirterizational mod RENTAL KIT for INCREASED PERFORMANCE

John V, outside agitator · 10-14-2007, 02:19 AM

OK it hurts my brain too much when I see certain things blurted out as "absolute must-do" things and then poor saps expending time and effort and extra money to find the supposed "perfect" thing.
The post 1991 B230 blocks with the squirters is one such thing.

As such I started a thread about making a LOANER KIT FOR THE TURBOBRICKS COMMUNITY which could be sent out to guys when its rebuild time so they could mod their blocks with just a simple drill---as long as it can chuck up 1/2" shank.

I thought it would be pretty simple and inexpensive to get the parts, but it was suggested that the kit should be a LOANER kit sent out against a stiff deposit--ie more than enough to cover the parts and the time to make the jig.

To those who may be interested. THIS KIT IS NOT FOR SALE.

Its done and its easy.
Took about 40 minutes cause it is a lot of swapping out of the drill bits.

The big deal is that you have to drill way down there in the block and you really need to be plumb or square and you have 4 operations per hole.
First thing is a faced off a FORD 2300 head bolt to have a square surface, then drilled and tapped it to M8

So snug the special FORD bolt.

Place the fixture on the FORD bolt and finger tighten the M8 bolt finger tight.

get the 1/4" drill bushing and place it in the jig, put the long 1/4" bit in your drill, stick it thru the bush and ease it down to the flat above the oil gallery.

Find a spot about half way from the cylinder to the block wall.

OIL the spot and drill with moderate pressure---it's IRON, you don't have to push too hard.
BE FAWKIN CAREFULL as you feel it start to break thru to the gallery. Ease up and speed up the drill speed.

Next, swing the fixture out of the way and put the spot face cutter in.
It's piloted with a 1/4 pilot so it will be guided in the hole.
IT WILL KISS THE OUT WALL OF THE BLOCK A BIT SO HOLD IT UP WHEN YOU PULL THE TRIGGER AND EASE IT DOWN. WHEN ITS ON THE FLAT SURFACE CONTROL THE DRILL SPEED AND PUSH DOWN AND KISS THE SURFACE TILL ITS A CLEAN SWEPT CIRCLE, NO MORE.

Now get the 1/4 bit and slide it back thru the jig and move it around so the drill goes thru the hole and isn't tweaked or bowed and then tighten the M8 bolt.

Next remove the 1/4 drill bush, replace it with the 7mm bush and drill thru the hole.

Now remove the jig, get the M8 x 1 tap and the 1/4 drive extention and carefull line it up and start the tap. OIL, and don't give it more than 2-2 1/2 turns without backing off a half turn.
Tap thru the hole but don't go all the way till the tp bottoms on the roof of the oil gallery.

Repeat.

The positions I chose were for easiest access. Cylinder 1 I did at the rear pad, cylinder 2 at the front pad, or each side of No2 Main, cylinder 3 I used read pad, cylinder 4 I used the front pad--or each side of No4 main.

Pretty easy, just take your time.

This is a good community, it's fun talking to you guys on the phone and see enthusiasm here I haven't seen as regularly in any of the other brands I deal with.

I'm happy I can do this as a sorta service to you guys who don't have easy access to a Bridgeport mill and I'm really glad that you poor bastids living where Volvos aren't filling the wrecking yards that you now don't have to dig and spend money looking for the elusive for you post '91 pre-quirterized blocks.

There's only the issue of the out of control nature of one or more of the Moderators..

Doing this for percieved personal animus is the definition of LAME, and so whoever moved the original thread has shown that they don't have the maturity or judgement to be a "Moderator"

I'm asking that some of the more mature Mods make this a sticky in the PERFORMANCE section where the question of squirters comes up so frequently.

And I'm asking where a discussion of just how the process of disciplining out of control mods can take place.

They CAN ruin things for a lot of people with their antics.

the poi · 10-14-2007, 02:30 AM

That's a pretty badass kit.

JohnLane · 10-14-2007, 02:31 AM

Cool kit John.
What manner of deposit do you expect that you will need for using your kit?
+1 on this one being made a sticky.

Poik · 10-14-2007, 02:32 AM

Nice writeup John, this should be made into an article/sticky.

Lucky the Smiling Pirate · 10-14-2007, 02:53 AM

yes.

good.

sticky.

rallyvovo · 10-14-2007, 03:12 AM

awesome john!

ps - im giggling 24/7, can you guess why?

BB-Q · 10-14-2007, 03:29 AM

Another vote for this being made a sticky, but edit out the bitching and add a paragraph such as:

Quote:

Pre 1993 blocks are without the piston oil squirters which are so important in keeping piston temperatures down and thus keeping detonation at bay, allowing higher boost levels to safely be used.
Here is a kit which has been developed to allow those with the earlier blocks to modify them to the later spec (using BMW squirters, available from the kit manufacturer) without the requirement to take your block to the machine shop.

As this item has taken some time to develop and the parts also have a physical cost, there will be a deposit chargeable on the loan of the kit- repayable on the return of said kit within one calender month of loan in good condition.If you break it or lose it, you pay for it. Trackable and insured shipping is therefore recommended.

Please PM John V, outside agitator for details

BB-Q · 10-14-2007, 03:33 AM

P.S., you remember we discussed making a kit to ship over to the UK for the European guys to use?

John V, outside agitator · 10-14-2007, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB-Q

P.S., you remember we discussed making a kit to ship over to the UK for the European guys to use?

Yep just gotta pick up the bits now we know the whole plan works easily.....

MikeSr. · 10-14-2007, 07:09 AM

Nice job, John. Put me on the list.

Any measurements on the proper depth?

Frag · 10-15-2007, 12:49 AM

Decent writeup, the pics are nice!

I just saw this a few days ago up at Johns. I can't say I was paying the best of attention, as I was messing around with a turbo and I don't have a current need. But it looks like a pretty sweet kit, I wouldn't mind something like this for the next 2.3 ford rebuild.

RoadRacer4Life · 10-15-2007, 12:05 PM

very nice i am impressed..

kyote · 10-15-2007, 12:10 PM

You're a good man, John Vanlandingham.

dbh86 · 10-15-2007, 02:54 PM

So when can we start signing up to use this?

smurf244 · 10-16-2007, 12:41 AM

Sweet kit man, I have a 86 B230FT block in need of this kit. Do you think you might sell the squiters with this? Put me on the list as long as the deposit isn't to much. Also, the ford head bolt think, is that part of the kit or is that something the user has to come up with? One more thing, can you add a picture of just the kit?

Adam

DecalServiceBrett · 10-16-2007, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kyote

You're a good man, John Vanlandingham.

Werd!

Kevin Hawkinson · 10-17-2007, 01:59 AM

The Ford bolt is machined, so it would come with the kit.

Nice work John!

Mueller · 10-17-2007, 09:06 AM

that is wicked sweet...nice job...

loctite on the squiters bolts? torque value?

I don't need the kit, but I'd buy the squirters from you if it's worth your time to package and ship 'em

badvlvo · 10-18-2007, 05:38 PM

NIce work John. Thanks for taking the time to set this up.

cjstephens · 10-22-2007, 12:17 PM

would you be willing to send overseas? not for a while atleast. I want to squirt my b23 build but after the b230 dies.. meh may aswell do it to both! got a part number on the squirters? I know they are BMW and i know i should search but its late down under

cheers

BB-Q · 10-22-2007, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjstephens

would you be willing to send overseas? not for a while atleast. I want to squirt my b23 build but after the b230 dies.. meh may aswell do it to both! got a part number on the squirters? I know they are BMW and i know i should search but its late down under

cheers

If all goes according to plan I'll be dealing with the world outside America. So no problems shipping the kit to Australia as long as you have no problems shipping it back to the UK and paying any customs charges that may (but shouldn't) occur. Sending stuff as samples for return normally gets round the customs charges.

YLD244 · 11-12-2007, 08:15 PM

Also, blocks that came with the squirters had the high volume oil pumps, where the gears were around 3mm taller, to allow for the extra amount of flow that the squirters required.

Do you recommend that people performing this mod upgrade to the high volume pump???

John V, outside agitator · 11-12-2007, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YLD244

Also, blocks that came with the squirters had the high volume oil pumps, where the gears were around 3mm taller, to allow for the extra amount of flow that the squirters required.

Do you recommend that people performing this mod upgrade to the high volume pump???

Yes, absolutely. However I think you might find that all the turbo cars at some point got the higher volume pump.

BB-Q · 11-13-2007, 03:39 PM

That's a very good point, but does anyone have the info on the gear widths?

DaytonAE86 · 11-18-2007, 04:58 PM

Awesome, what size is that face cutter? 1/2 inch?

I've got access to an M8 tap, and making a jig is easy, just need the info.

Where do you get the squirters, or are they BMW part numbers that I can order at any dealership.

Or, before I run off and do something rash, how much is the deposit and how much for the squirters, from you.

10-14-2007, 02:19 AM	#1
John V, outside agitator Board Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sleezattle, WA, USA	Squirterizational mod RENTAL KIT for INCREASED PERFORMANCE OK it hurts my brain too much when I see certain things blurted out as "absolute must-do" things and then poor saps expending time and effort and extra money to find the supposed "perfect" thing. The post 1991 B230 blocks with the squirters is one such thing. As such I started a thread about making a LOANER KIT FOR THE TURBOBRICKS COMMUNITY which could be sent out to guys when its rebuild time so they could mod their blocks with just a simple drill---as long as it can chuck up 1/2" shank. I thought it would be pretty simple and inexpensive to get the parts, but it was suggested that the kit should be a LOANER kit sent out against a stiff deposit--ie more than enough to cover the parts and the time to make the jig. To those who may be interested. THIS KIT IS NOT FOR SALE. Its done and its easy. Took about 40 minutes cause it is a lot of swapping out of the drill bits. The big deal is that you have to drill way down there in the block and you really need to be plumb or square and you have 4 operations per hole. First thing is a faced off a FORD 2300 head bolt to have a square surface, then drilled and tapped it to M8 So snug the special FORD bolt. Place the fixture on the FORD bolt and finger tighten the M8 bolt finger tight. get the 1/4" drill bushing and place it in the jig, put the long 1/4" bit in your drill, stick it thru the bush and ease it down to the flat above the oil gallery. Find a spot about half way from the cylinder to the block wall. OIL the spot and drill with moderate pressure---it's IRON, you don't have to push too hard. BE FAWKIN CAREFULL as you feel it start to break thru to the gallery. Ease up and speed up the drill speed. Next, swing the fixture out of the way and put the spot face cutter in. It's piloted with a 1/4 pilot so it will be guided in the hole. IT WILL KISS THE OUT WALL OF THE BLOCK A BIT SO HOLD IT UP WHEN YOU PULL THE TRIGGER AND EASE IT DOWN. WHEN ITS ON THE FLAT SURFACE CONTROL THE DRILL SPEED AND PUSH DOWN AND KISS THE SURFACE TILL ITS A CLEAN SWEPT CIRCLE, NO MORE. Now get the 1/4 bit and slide it back thru the jig and move it around so the drill goes thru the hole and isn't tweaked or bowed and then tighten the M8 bolt. Next remove the 1/4 drill bush, replace it with the 7mm bush and drill thru the hole. Now remove the jig, get the M8 x 1 tap and the 1/4 drive extention and carefull line it up and start the tap. OIL, and don't give it more than 2-2 1/2 turns without backing off a half turn. Tap thru the hole but don't go all the way till the tp bottoms on the roof of the oil gallery. Repeat. The positions I chose were for easiest access. Cylinder 1 I did at the rear pad, cylinder 2 at the front pad, or each side of No2 Main, cylinder 3 I used read pad, cylinder 4 I used the front pad--or each side of No4 main. Pretty easy, just take your time. This is a good community, it's fun talking to you guys on the phone and see enthusiasm here I haven't seen as regularly in any of the other brands I deal with. I'm happy I can do this as a sorta service to you guys who don't have easy access to a Bridgeport mill and I'm really glad that you poor bastids living where Volvos aren't filling the wrecking yards that you now don't have to dig and spend money looking for the elusive for you post '91 pre-quirterized blocks. There's only the issue of the out of control nature of one or more of the Moderators.. Doing this for percieved personal animus is the definition of LAME, and so whoever moved the original thread has shown that they don't have the maturity or judgement to be a "Moderator" I'm asking that some of the more mature Mods make this a sticky in the PERFORMANCE section where the question of squirters comes up so frequently. And I'm asking where a discussion of just how the process of disciplining out of control mods can take place. They CAN ruin things for a lot of people with their antics. __________________ John Vanlandingham/JVAB Imports Sleezattle WA, USA --> CALL (206) 431-9696<---- www.rallyrace.net/jvab www.rallyanarchy.com Vive le Prole-le-ralliat "When a man tells you that he got rich through hard work, ask him: 'Whose?'" — Don Marquis Last edited by John V, outside agitator; 12-06-2013 at 10:26 PM.. Reason: Edited for stickinesss

10-14-2007, 02:31 AM	#3
JohnLane Board Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Northern Washington	Cool kit John. What manner of deposit do you expect that you will need for using your kit? +1 on this one being made a sticky. __________________ Overkill is consistently more fun.

10-14-2007, 02:32 AM	#4
Poik Backwards Turbo Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Göteborg, Sweden	Nice writeup John, this should be made into an article/sticky. __________________ Eric Olsson's 242 Turbo \| 245 DL \| ~~744 Turbo~~

10-14-2007, 02:53 AM	#5
Lucky the Smiling Pirate roadkill Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Phoenix, AZ, USA	yes. good. sticky. __________________

10-14-2007, 03:12 AM	#6
rallyvovo Board Member Join Date: Jan 2005	awesome john! ps - im giggling 24/7, can you guess why? __________________ :::: 9 series pimpin' ::::

10-14-2007, 02:30 AM	#2
the poi Has been Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Pasadena, CA	That's a pretty badass kit.

10-14-2007, 03:33 AM	#8
BB-Q (. )( .) Join Date: May 2005 Location: Costa del Fylde	P.S., you remember we discussed making a kit to ship over to the UK for the European guys to use?

10-14-2007, 07:09 AM	#10
MikeSr. What, me worry? Join Date: May 2003 Location: Acworth, Ga. USA	Nice job, John. Put me on the list. Any measurements on the proper depth? __________________ I coulda had a V8!

10-15-2007, 12:49 AM	#11
Frag Board Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Tukwila, Wa 98168	Decent writeup, the pics are nice! I just saw this a few days ago up at Johns. I can't say I was paying the best of attention, as I was messing around with a turbo and I don't have a current need. But it looks like a pretty sweet kit, I wouldn't mind something like this for the next 2.3 ford rebuild. __________________ http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g145/mohi3/bush.gif "This is a farewell kiss to you dog!"

10-15-2007, 12:10 PM	#13
kyote Living The Dream Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: La Porte TX	You're a good man, John Vanlandingham. __________________ -78 242 tic, a kyotefab/willettrun joint -83 245 tic, daily in progress -14 F150 FX4 3.5 EcoBeast (Wife's)

10-16-2007, 12:41 AM	#15
smurf244 The smurf is no more Join Date: May 2006 Location: Atlanta	Sweet kit man, I have a 86 B230FT block in need of this kit. Do you think you might sell the squiters with this? Put me on the list as long as the deposit isn't to much. Also, the ford head bolt think, is that part of the kit or is that something the user has to come up with? One more thing, can you add a picture of just the kit? Adam __________________ 1988 244: RIP. 1991 780 Bertone aka The Dyno Killer: Sold. RIP. 1994 945 Turbo: Voxx 16x7 MG, A cam, 240 parts, & DD 1994 965: Parted out, PM with needed parts 1983 244 GLT: Factory/dealer turbo and intercooler, black on black, B21F intake, 850 seats, Voxx 17x8 MG, B&G springs, HD's, NPR, M46etc. 1979 242 GT: Project

10-17-2007, 01:59 AM	#17
Kevin Hawkinson Better Red than Dead Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Seattle	The Ford bolt is machined, so it would come with the kit. Nice work John! __________________ -Kevvie Hoikansanalainenen

10-17-2007, 09:06 AM	#18
Mueller Board Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Antioch, CA	that is wicked sweet...nice job... loctite on the squiters bolts? torque value? I don't need the kit, but I'd buy the squirters from you if it's worth your time to package and ship 'em __________________ .........

10-18-2007, 05:38 PM	#19
badvlvo Bad for Babies Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Marina, California	NIce work John. Thanks for taking the time to set this up. __________________ RIP BADVLVO 3/1/1980-10/10/2015 Died at age 35 93 245 m47 300k miles, one owner, zero compression

11-12-2007, 08:15 PM	#22
YLD244 Board Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Sydney, Australia	Also, blocks that came with the squirters had the high volume oil pumps, where the gears were around 3mm taller, to allow for the extra amount of flow that the squirters required. Do you recommend that people performing this mod upgrade to the high volume pump??? __________________ Marc YLD244 - '76 244 GL MAD740 - '89 740T Tank - '69 144 B20A 5 speed

11-13-2007, 03:39 PM	#24
BB-Q (. )( .) Join Date: May 2005 Location: Costa del Fylde	That's a very good point, but does anyone have the info on the gear widths?