1987 244 DL Autocrosser - Page 40

Captain Bondo · 08-26-2010, 11:57 AM

"fits?" Maybe it's just the angles, but it looks like you've got about 3/4" of bump travel before it rubs? Looks beefy though.

woodrowstar · 08-26-2010, 12:30 PM

Arg... thats some fine fitting going on there...arg (sad pirate)

towerymt · 08-26-2010, 05:26 PM

This one kind of shows that there is a gap between the fender and the tire, and the tire is slightly stretched, so it appears fine. The 275/45/16 was closer on the outside, but was OK. The 15" sidewalls are soft, so this tire will squirm, but I think it will be less or similar to how much the 275/45 moves on the wheel. The 16" sidewall is stiffer, but taller, and the wheel is 1" narrower than the 15".

It's close enough now that I can drive it. Just have to finish putting the wheels together and actually try them at an event.

With the 35mm adapter + 5mm spacer, the fender was resting on the tire. Now it should have clearance to slide the fender over the tire. I'll take out the spring and drop it all the way down when I get a chance.

boostabear · 08-26-2010, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by towerymt

: drool:

klr142 · 08-27-2010, 02:49 AM

So, those 16x8s are these centers with a 16x8 barrel, right? Argh, so want, but can not currently have...

Karl Buchka · 08-27-2010, 05:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klr142

So, those 16x8s are these centers with a 16x8 barrel, right? Argh, so want, but can not currently have...

More like would not want. They look sick, but I'll pass on flatbase wheels.

towerymt · 08-27-2010, 09:42 AM

Pictured above are the E50 centers in 5x120.65, with flatbase 15" rim halves.

I have another set of gold E501 centers that are 5x108 and are 16x8 (not flat base, wheel stays together when mounting/dismounting tire).

http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/120419854
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/120419855
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/120603673

jpbturbo · 08-27-2010, 09:46 AM

I had no idea what you were talking about but google is my friend.
http://www.bbs-racing-wheels.com/sei....txt/flatb.htm

The car is looking awesome.

klr142 · 08-27-2010, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Karl Buchka

More like would not want. They look sick, but I'll pass on flatbase wheels.

Quote:

Originally Posted by towerymt

I have another set of gold E501 centers that are 5x108 and are 16x8 (not flat base, wheel stays together when mounting/dismounting tire).

^This.

http://i.pbase.com/o6/22/59322/1/120...N.P1080503.jpg
Is this^ with the 205 on there? Looks almost unimpressive after looking at your other wheel pictures.

Maybe I'll have to go with Jay's 8 and 9" versions... If/when I do get around to getting some.

towerymt · 08-27-2010, 10:13 AM

http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/...3/original.jpg

Yes, 205/50/16. Going on the daily driver, so I can rotate them front to rear since all four are the same.

klr142 · 08-27-2010, 10:57 AM

Yeah, being able to rotate is nice...

towerymt · 09-04-2010, 05:56 PM

M47 is out for the T5 swap. Took one last drive on the M47 this morning. Not going to miss it...but it will end up in my '92 to replace the poor(er) shifting M47 that's in there now.

towerymt · 09-05-2010, 09:29 PM

The bolt that fits the ball pivot on the clutch fork is 5/16-18...not M8x1.25. It was the same thread pitch as my Garrett compressor housing. This is the second time I've been caught out by 5/16" hardware. Got the bolt tonight, but it was already dark and I didn't have a chance to put the bell housing on. But the flywheel is on and torqued to 55lb-ft. Clutch is on...centered the disc using an old T5 input shaft. All pressure plates are torqued this time. The Ford pilot bearing fit into the crank with a light persuasive tap from the dead blow hammer. I'll worry about extracting it for some reason when that reason comes along.

Clutch fork is for a 240 w/M46 (different than M47 fork). Blocks are bronze by BNE. Release bearing is McLeod, for a Mustang.

Aluminum flywheel, clutchnet disc, clutchnet pressure plate.

And the new, über rare 200lb 2.25" travel tender springs.

FunkyStankyChicken · 09-05-2010, 09:36 PM

Gonna hit the dyno and turn up the boost after this?

DNAsEqUeNcE · 09-05-2010, 09:42 PM

no

it needs a rebuild!

the motor has a lot of blowby at high revs and at 13 psi.

but it still makes 260 wheel, which is nice.

towerymt · 09-05-2010, 09:44 PM

No. Maybe. Wastegate bracket needs work. The 18psi actuator wasn't all it's cracked up to be. Going to try a T3 actuator and MBC I think.

edit: I don't care about the blowby issue. That won't stop me from turning up the boost. And it doesn't need to be rebuilt...it was already rebuilt. Needs re-ringing, and I have rings. Still waiting on the RSI rods, which I may or may not use.

MrBill · 09-07-2010, 11:28 AM

Trade for holset actuator. High teens low 20s boost.

Good ****.

badvlvo · 09-07-2010, 11:33 AM

What flywheel is that?

blkaplan · 09-07-2010, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by towerymt

The bolt that fits the ball pivot on the clutch fork is 5/16-18...not M8x1.25.

WOW, that **** is standard? That would explain the mistery pivot ball that kept breaking taps and bolts...

towerymt · 09-07-2010, 01:28 PM

M8 goes in one turn or less and stops. 5/16" threads all the way in by hand. Problem solved.

Threw the trans in this morning before work and measured the pinion flange to output shaft seal length of 50-1/2". I have Rob's measurement written down as 50-7/8", so that's good. I was in a rush to get the trans in before I had to leave and I forgot to grease the input shaft & release bearing, so I'll slide the trans back and get some grease in there before I torque the trans to the adapter plate.

Trans put up a fight going in, but it wasn't terrible and the input shaft slid right in, no problem...once I got it remotely close to lined up. Ended up looping a ratchet strap around the tailshaft housing and I hooked it to the grab handle on the roof for the passenger and that pulled the box up enough that I could slide the jack and wiggle the trans into place. It's tough working on gravel when the floor jack won't slide/roll.

Didn't have a plug for the speedo sensor hole, so I carved a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate and bolted it on with plenty of grey RTV. The only bolt I had that fit the threaded hole was about 6", so I cut off the threaded end and made a stud out of it. Looks like it should work just fine.

Need to unbolt the driveshaft from the pinion and take it to the shop to have it modified. Should be done this week or next.

jpbturbo · 09-07-2010, 02:25 PM

I used to keep a sheet of cheap subflooring plywood on hand to throw down on the gravel when I needed to work.

Good info on the transmission swap.

http://kaplhenke.com/ has the tender springs in progressive and linear in case anybody else is looking for them.

blkaplan · 09-07-2010, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpbturbo

pitstopusa has the tender springs in progressive and linear in case anybody else is looking for them.

So does BNE

jpbturbo · 09-07-2010, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkaplan

So does BNE

What are you talking about?

blkaplan · 09-07-2010, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpbturbo

What are you talking about?

progressive and linear tender springs... what are YOU talking about?

DNAsEqUeNcE · 09-07-2010, 05:54 PM

Whatchall talkin bout willises?

08-26-2010, 12:30 PM	#977
woodrowstar Located:DMV+T Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Southern Marry-Land	Arg... thats some fine fitting going on there...arg (sad pirate) __________________ R.I.P BRICK ROSS Cycling America 2012 TB link Cycling AMerica FB link Last edited by woodrowstar; 08-26-2010 at 12:50 PM..

08-27-2010, 02:49 AM	#980
klr142 Turbo, what? Join Date: May 2004 Location: OR	So, those 16x8s are these centers with a 16x8 barrel, right? Argh, so want, but can not currently have... __________________ Kyle - NLMGG: '91 244 NA DD/Track - General Leif: '71 142 b230 Chumpcar - Oregon Volvo Tuners? - For Sale?

08-27-2010, 10:57 AM	#986
klr142 Turbo, what? Join Date: May 2004 Location: OR	Yeah, being able to rotate is nice... Last edited by klr142; 08-27-2010 at 11:12 AM..

09-05-2010, 09:36 PM	#989
FunkyStankyChicken Rad Panda Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ithaca NY	Gonna hit the dyno and turn up the boost after this? __________________ '79 242 GT - Project '91 SR5 Pickup - Work Beater '84 BMW 533i - Summer Daily

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08-26-2010, 05:26 PM	#978
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	This one kind of shows that there is a gap between the fender and the tire, and the tire is slightly stretched, so it appears fine. The 275/45/16 was closer on the outside, but was OK. The 15" sidewalls are soft, so this tire will squirm, but I think it will be less or similar to how much the 275/45 moves on the wheel. The 16" sidewall is stiffer, but taller, and the wheel is 1" narrower than the 15". It's close enough now that I can drive it. Just have to finish putting the wheels together and actually try them at an event. With the 35mm adapter + 5mm spacer, the fender was resting on the tire. Now it should have clearance to slide the fender over the tire. I'll take out the spring and drop it all the way down when I get a chance.

08-27-2010, 09:42 AM	#982
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	Pictured above are the E50 centers in 5x120.65, with flatbase 15" rim halves. I have another set of gold E501 centers that are 5x108 and are 16x8 (not flat base, wheel stays together when mounting/dismounting tire). http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/120419854 http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/120419855 http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/120603673

08-27-2010, 10:13 AM	#985
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/...3/original.jpg Yes, 205/50/16. Going on the daily driver, so I can rotate them front to rear since all four are the same.

09-04-2010, 05:56 PM	#987
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	M47 is out for the T5 swap. Took one last drive on the M47 this morning. Not going to miss it...but it will end up in my '92 to replace the poor(er) shifting M47 that's in there now.

09-05-2010, 09:29 PM	#988
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	The bolt that fits the ball pivot on the clutch fork is 5/16-18...not M8x1.25. It was the same thread pitch as my Garrett compressor housing. This is the second time I've been caught out by 5/16" hardware. Got the bolt tonight, but it was already dark and I didn't have a chance to put the bell housing on. But the flywheel is on and torqued to 55lb-ft. Clutch is on...centered the disc using an old T5 input shaft. All pressure plates are torqued this time. The Ford pilot bearing fit into the crank with a light persuasive tap from the dead blow hammer. I'll worry about extracting it for some reason when that reason comes along. Clutch fork is for a 240 w/M46 (different than M47 fork). Blocks are bronze by BNE. Release bearing is McLeod, for a Mustang. Aluminum flywheel, clutchnet disc, clutchnet pressure plate. And the new, über rare 200lb 2.25" travel tender springs.

09-05-2010, 09:44 PM	#991
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	No. Maybe. Wastegate bracket needs work. The 18psi actuator wasn't all it's cracked up to be. Going to try a T3 actuator and MBC I think. edit: I don't care about the blowby issue. That won't stop me from turning up the boost. And it doesn't need to be rebuilt...it was already rebuilt. Needs re-ringing, and I have rings. Still waiting on the RSI rods, which I may or may not use.

09-07-2010, 11:33 AM	#993
badvlvo Bad for Babies Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bakersfield, CA	What flywheel is that?

09-07-2010, 01:28 PM	#995
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	M8 goes in one turn or less and stops. 5/16" threads all the way in by hand. Problem solved. Threw the trans in this morning before work and measured the pinion flange to output shaft seal length of 50-1/2". I have Rob's measurement written down as 50-7/8", so that's good. I was in a rush to get the trans in before I had to leave and I forgot to grease the input shaft & release bearing, so I'll slide the trans back and get some grease in there before I torque the trans to the adapter plate. Trans put up a fight going in, but it wasn't terrible and the input shaft slid right in, no problem...once I got it remotely close to lined up. Ended up looping a ratchet strap around the tailshaft housing and I hooked it to the grab handle on the roof for the passenger and that pulled the box up enough that I could slide the jack and wiggle the trans into place. It's tough working on gravel when the floor jack won't slide/roll. Didn't have a plug for the speedo sensor hole, so I carved a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate and bolted it on with plenty of grey RTV. The only bolt I had that fit the threaded hole was about 6", so I cut off the threaded end and made a stud out of it. Looks like it should work just fine. Need to unbolt the driveshaft from the pinion and take it to the shop to have it modified. Should be done this week or next.

09-07-2010, 02:25 PM	#996
jpbturbo Mens Classic Fit Polo Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Mr. Lee's Greater Hong Kong #28604	I used to keep a sheet of cheap subflooring plywood on hand to throw down on the gravel when I needed to work. Good info on the transmission swap. http://kaplhenke.com/ has the tender springs in progressive and linear in case anybody else is looking for them.

09-07-2010, 05:54 PM	#1000
DNAsEqUeNcE †500DollarSparkMap Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: San' Tonio'	Whatchall talkin bout willises?