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Old 05-21-2008, 05:32 PM   #1
Big Lan
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Default Lanny's 1967 122s

1967 122s, $650, no headlights, turn signals, or speedo, brakes need to be bled, and needs some suspension work, but runs like a champ, good clutch, straight body, and pretty much no rust.



























Just a bit of surface rust on the toeboard



Dent on the driver door


The worst of the very minimal rust - driver door


Passenger door




Cool old sticker


Cool old plate frame - black plates, bitches!


Also came with the mangled missing trim, and the mangled grill insert, with a couple of headliner bows for good measure


This is the color it's gonna be for a while until I'm ready for the real bodywork - Rustoleum Sail Blue, probably will have yellow stripes on the roof too


When I'm ready for the good paint, it's gonna be '65 GTO Iris Mist - do excuse the tiny pic, it's the best one I could find, really rare color


Short term plan is to get it safely drivable. Probably try to find some 17" Crown Vic steelies. Ultimate goal is ~600whp, but I'll be content with 450. Got the B23 block from Logan's '84 242 in the back yard, and a 16v head in the back of the wagon. Will need mucho boostu, but I won't have to smog it! Yay!
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:39 PM   #2
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Nice find,good plan,congrats
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock can support?

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Old 05-21-2008, 05:46 PM   #3
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Noice!
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yeah gotta wait for jbweld to dry before I do anything today
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:20 PM   #4
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did your wallet make a vacuum noise when you saw it?

good luck - should be nice when it's all said and done!
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:28 PM   #5
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Lucky! nice find
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:52 PM   #6
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That sounds like it's going to be sweet!
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Go commando on both fronts.
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:05 PM   #7
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i would totally rat rod it...matte black, stencil flames, and a blown big block, oh man...
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:26 PM   #8
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Nice. it's good to see you spending money on a Volvo again.
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:53 PM   #9
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Don't ruin the car with rustoleum.
Start the bodywork,and use primer sealer as you go.

Last edited by Redwood Chair; 05-22-2008 at 10:25 PM..
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Old 05-21-2008, 09:45 PM   #10
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was that the one on craigslist? i had to talk myself out of it
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Old 05-22-2008, 01:54 AM   #11
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was that the one on craigslist? i had to talk myself out of it
Yeah, it is. I've been dying for a smog exempt two-door Volvo, and this one, rough as it may look, was just too solid to pass up.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:54 PM   #12
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thats a nice money pit alright!
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Old 05-24-2008, 07:42 AM   #13
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122s are great cars.
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:02 PM   #14
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OK, so I've put a bit of work into it. Started by bleeding the brakes. I put a whole quart of brake fluid through the system, and I still have the same problem - pedal goes damn near to the floor before engaging, and only does so marginally. Reapply quickly and the pedal pumps up and is much firmer, and higher up as well. Stops better when this happens. If I let off the pedal and wait a few seconds, the cycle starts all over again. I tried bleeding the master, and then rebleeding the system, but it still does this. Am I right in thinking I need a new master cylinder? I want to have a dual circuit master anyway, so I'm not at all concerned about spending the money - in fact, I went to Napa today to try and get one, more on that in a sec - but I'd also like to have a bit of reassurance that I'm diagnosing this correctly.

On the subject of that dual master, what car should I say it's for to get one that bolts up? I gleaned from the one of the multitude of recent threads with people getting 122s that an early 140 master would bolt up. I told the guy '69 and the picture he pulled up had the mounting holes horizontal instead of the vertical pattern mine mounts on. He did offer to look around and see if there's one from another car that can be used provided I bring the mounting flange pattern to measure from, so I may do that, but if there's something specific that I can go in there with, I'd love to know. Couldn't find anything searching on brickboard, all those weenies suggest to keep the stock single reservoir master. I'm not concerned with the cost, I just wanna drive the damn car!

As for the car itself, I found a bit more rust than I'd expected. It seems to be all in the floorpan, and everything structural seems to be pretty solid, so I'm not overly concerned at this point. I'll have to get some pictures of it, I haven't had a chance to yet. I'm off to go buy a new battery (the guy I bought it from pried the caps off the one in the car to fill it up, so it dies after sitting a couple days), I'll get those pics up when I get back.
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:21 PM   #15
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Default master cylinder and stuff

Nothing wrong with the stock setup. It just isn't dual circuit. However, if you really want a dual circuit setup. Last summer I watched a guy at a repair shop adapt a Mazda RX7 master cylinder to his 122S. If I recall correctly he had to oblong the holes slightly on the master cylinder mounting flange and that let it bolt up easily to the car. He also had to make up his own pushrod to the pedal since that relationship changed as well. But it worked out well and was functional last time I saw him.
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:22 PM   #16
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you got an alternator...!!! aarrggh *shakes fist*!!
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Old 06-03-2008, 05:44 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Nothing wrong with the stock setup. It just isn't dual circuit. However, if you really want a dual circuit setup. Last summer I watched a guy at a repair shop adapt a Mazda RX7 master cylinder to his 122S. If I recall correctly he had to oblong the holes slightly on the master cylinder mounting flange and that let it bolt up easily to the car. He also had to make up his own pushrod to the pedal since that relationship changed as well. But it worked out well and was functional last time I saw him.
I'll definitely have to look into that. Do you happen to remember what gen RX7 it was from, and was it a power or manual master? I'd rather keep the brakes manual in this car, I like the clean look under the hood it provides.
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you got an alternator...!!! aarrggh *shakes fist*!!
Aren't there some brackets you need to be pulling?

And as promised, here's the pics

Driver floorboard, I haven't gotten all the sound deadening off yet



Bad shot of the front passenger side



Another, this time of the toeboard



Passenger rear




Driver rear




So, today's project is to get all the rest of the sound deadening off the floors, then toss in the new redtop and put it on the ramps to take a closer look at the rockers and stuff. Maybe I'll make a video to show how badly the steering linkage needs to be rebuilt.

For the record, I do still think I came out pretty well with this car. The fact that it's kinda rusty makes it easier for me to cut it up with no remorse.
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:24 PM   #18
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Got the rest of the sound deadening off the car yesterday.

Played bloody knuckles with a rubber mallet. I lost.



This was after I'd cleaned up, of course.

Driver side



Driver rear



Passenger rear, by far the worst



Didn't really get much of a chance to poke around under the car, but the little bit I did seems to show that the underside is filthy, but solid. Are there any specific points that I should be checking?

Been looking at master cylinders, and it seems I may have found one that works: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Chime in here or in this thread http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=138027
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lan View Post
Been looking at master cylinders, and it seems I may have found one that works: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Chime in here or in this thread http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=138027
Anybody got anything to add on this one? Apparently I have a $30 coupon for Summit that's good through the 6th, so I'd like to get this ordered in the next day or so.
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Old 06-04-2008, 11:47 PM   #20
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Aren't there some brackets you need to be pulling?

Hehe... I bolted on the alternator today ;)


and HOLY **** THATS A LOT OF RUST. Im sorry man
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Old 06-04-2008, 11:56 PM   #21
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WOOOOOT!!!
122s are the sex! Unfortunately I've been neglecting mine for oh, i dunno, like TEN YEARS, its driving me nuts! I'm seriously about to start selling off all my cars and most of my **** and dump it all into my 122.

I can offer my welding fabrication help/support with all that rust repair...I'm booked a few months out for projects that big but we can start chatting about it if you're interested. Also I have a bunch of random spare 122s body stuff layin around like some RUST FREE DOORS, some Fiber glass front fenders and a whole slew of other stuff that I'll make you a package deal on.
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Old 06-10-2008, 06:22 PM   #22
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Santa came early this year, and he drove a big brown truck!



3/16" steel line and accompanying fittings, a flaring kit, tubing cutter, bender, a prop valve/distribution block/brake light switch combo, and my new master cylinder.

Gotta love that disclaimer


Imagine my glee when I read that and opened up that box. Then imagine my dismay when I noticed that the holes on the side that I'd thought were ports for the brake lines actually went all the way through the master, and that there was only one port.





Turns out that what I thought was the perfect master cylinder was actually still just a single reservoir, and that I hadn't read the description nearly well enough. Now I'm debating on whether or not to just use the damn thing and do the split system later.

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WOOOOOT!!!
122s are the sex! Unfortunately I've been neglecting mine for oh, i dunno, like TEN YEARS, its driving me nuts! I'm seriously about to start selling off all my cars and most of my **** and dump it all into my 122.

I can offer my welding fabrication help/support with all that rust repair...I'm booked a few months out for projects that big but we can start chatting about it if you're interested. Also I have a bunch of random spare 122s body stuff layin around like some RUST FREE DOORS, some Fiber glass front fenders and a whole slew of other stuff that I'll make you a package deal on.
Dude, I may just have to take you up on that at some point. My wallet's gonna be taking a beating for a little while yet.
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:15 PM   #23
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That looks like the same MC that Dale (245gti) is running in his 122. Not a dual, but it works.
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Old 08-06-2008, 01:27 AM   #24
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Bit of a belated update, copy and pasted from another forum post of mine

.................................................. ........

I picked up a master cylinder spec'd for a '79 RX7, part#11-1878. Should work with just a bit of slotting on one bolt hole. When I ordered all my goodies from Summit, I got fittings for 3/16" tubing, which is what I'll be using. What I didn't take into account with the RX7 master is that the threads are metric, and the fittings I got were SAE. So, today I picked up three 10x1.25 male>3/8-24 female adapters, Edelmann part#270330, for $3.32 apiece. The master has three outputs, two for the front and one for the rear. I have a distribution block/prop valve combo that I'll be using to split the front lines, so I also bought a plug to put in one of the adapters, listed on my receipt as part#131x3, for $.77.

The master didn't come with a reservoir, so I made a trip to the pick & pull. It seems that between the first two gens of RX7 that the reservoirs are interchangeable. The two lines share a chamber, but there's also a float inside that triggers a switch for the brake fluid, so I'll get that wired up and I won't worry about it. I bought two and the lady charged me $3 for both.

Also, for the record, that RX7 master has a 13/16" bore.

.................................................. .................

Shortly after all this transpired, I went to town on slotting the holes in the master to mount it up. It really was relatively minimal slotting needed, and it did indeed bolt right up to the firewall.

Once I put it on, I realized I had a major problem - the steering shaft runs directly under the mc, and the output for the rear brakes was directly over the shaft coupling. When I put one of those adapters in, it rested on top of one of the bolts in that coupling. Obviously that wasn't going to work. So, I eventually tracked down straight 10x1.25 tube nuts from http://www.southco-ind.com/commerce/ . I figured that since the nuts were much shorter than the adapters, I could possibly run a piece of line with a sharp bend for clearance and be able to stop and turn the car. Got the tube nuts in the mail, tried to bend a test piece of line, no dice. My bender won't bend the line anywhere near tight enough to clear the steering shaft, and even if it could, I wouldn't be able to flare the line since the nut would be in the way.

I haven't touched the car since, and this was probably about a month ago. At this point, I've pretty much resigned myself to just using the single reservoir master, since to use the rx7 one I'd need to have a spacer made to clear that damn coupler, and then I'd need a new pushrod. No thanks. I'll just use that Wilwood one I've already got. Sometime down the line I may put in a R&P steering rack, which I'm sure will necessitate a new steering shaft (really just an excuse for a tilt wheel) so that rx7 master may return some day.

Some random pictures I didn't know I had on the camera:











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Old 08-06-2008, 10:52 AM   #25
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So will it stop by saturday?
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