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Old 01-22-2003, 08:38 PM   #1
TurboBrick940
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8) What's up?

Background:
My 95 940T came with a TD04H-13C-6. Which is a TD04 cartridge, H onboard CBV, with a 13C standard compressor wheel, and a 6cm2 exhaust housing.

Most 850/70 cars came with TD04HL-15G-7 turbos. Which is also a TD04 cartridge, H onboard CBV, L (I donno, something performance related), a 15G compressor wheel, which MIHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries) refers to as their 'motorsport' wheel because it has TWO different height sets of blades on the compressor wheel. The 7cm2 exhaust housing is the difference that started all this.


Now I've modified the 15G-7 to fit on my B230FT. What did this take and how did I do this, and above all..why :?:

I decided I needed a 7cm2 exhaust housing to avoid burning up my exhaust valves when I eventually decided to put the car on nitrous (uh..don't you mean NOS? haha). The 7cm2 housing has a larger area in the 'neckdown' of the housing. This is the major difference between a 6cm and a 7cm housing... The larger housing improves top end efficiency and performance at a sacrifice of low end spool. The smaller housing becomes a restriction at higher HP levels and makes EGT go through the roof.

I was going to order a ported MIHI 7cm housing from Team Rip Engineering, but I found that my bolt spacing is different so I obviously needed to try something different. I sourced a perfect low mileage turbo off a 1995 850 T5. Initially I was going to steal the larger housing off of it and bolt it up to my recently rebuilt turbo, since the housing will bolt right on. I decided to use the whole turbo due to its excellent condition, but the turbo is oriented totally different from the standard turbo. The compressor housing and the turbine housing are situated differently on the center cartridge. This posed a problem.

First I took the turbine housing off and ported the sh*t out of it! I opened up the 'throat' and all the way into the neck as far as I could reach and opened up the wastegate hole (~2 mm). I also smoothed the outlet portion of the housing.


Next I had to rotate the turbine housing. To rotate the turbine housing you have to remove the v-band clamp and seperate the cartridge from the housing. Then you have to grind off the locator pin, rotate and reassemble it.

Then I had to rotate the compressor housing. You need a big a$$ snap ring tool to do this (or risk shooting the ring across the room and never getting it back on). You can take tension off the spring and turn the housing to simplify things.

So now the compressor and the turbine are on the compressor in the correct orientation...but now the wastegate solenoid doesn't match up with the connection on the housing. Time to make brackets! (and beat the sh*t out of one of the fac. brackets.)



Hopefully I'll have time to finish making my 'custom' downpipe mount. More on that later, this is already a hella long post.


The future?

Nah, but this is a custom ballistic ball bearting turbo my friend is putting on his sick DSM. John Hudson...remember that name, you shall hear it again. That is a garret t-25 next to the GT.

(All pictures mirrored at http://briefcase.yahoo.com/loudredvolvo )
Check out my drag race video last year at The Rock!
http://hometown.aol.com/~loudredvolvo/TheRock.wmv
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Old 01-22-2003, 10:46 PM   #2
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very interesting.

but I remember Ptouch20 posted his 15g turbo installed was simply enlarge the holes and change the bosses.

or there are more than one model of 15g turbo?
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Old 01-22-2003, 11:02 PM   #3
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yea i sure did do the same thing....you did a more thorough job...i pulled the guide pin, rotated housing, reclamped, welded new bracket, drilled out bottom 2 holes to mount to exhaust manifold, and bolted her on....works like a charm. robin aka. bitjockey will be getting this turbo from me soon, as now i'm prepping another one to go on. hope things go well for ya, it's a great mod.
-pete
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Old 01-23-2003, 12:07 AM   #4
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Nice job...

Can't wait to get that turbo slapped on my new motor.

It will have to do until the rest of the motor warrants a larger turbo...

Curious, what did you use for porting? Die grinder?

I used my Dremel on my friends 14B mitsu for his Eclipse... took FOREVER.
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Old 01-23-2003, 01:46 AM   #5
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Bitjockey,
I used four tools.

1 - Craftsman Dremel

1 - Air Die Grinder

1 - Drill Press

1 - Angle Grinder

I used abrasive disks, sanding drums, stones, etc. I've done some porting myself before so I had the stuff laying around. I was going to polish it out afterwards...but come on that's silly :P .

Ptouch20,
You have already duplicated what I'm working on...are there any suprises I need to watch out for? I measured the bolt spacing and it seems correct, so aside from removing the lower studs and drilling out the threads, is there anything else I need to remember...?
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Old 01-23-2003, 11:17 PM   #6
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umm...i cant' think of anything that came in the way of the install...you have already conquered the hardest part of moving that bracket to the other side of the turbo. bolted right up to the manifold after drilling the holes larger, and went right to the stock downpipe....the whole job took me about 4 hours, but i didn't port anything out like you did and i had a lift. your really going to love this mod. i've been running 17 psi on the street lately with all the cold weather...ive never had tranny problems til installed this unit tho. i really need to swap for something stronger or build up an aw71. i'll post some pics someday...good luck.
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Old 01-23-2003, 11:27 PM   #7
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I knew that video looked fimilar, your the guy I bought the BTM from a few months ago wasn't it!?

Looking good man!

you can check mine out at http://www.clubvolvo.com/forums/show...s=&threadid=54

Doug
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Old 01-24-2003, 02:07 AM   #8
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Doug,
What's up man, yea I sold you the BTM. Isn't that **** great. I've been hiding too long. And today I had a bigtime SNAFU . Check this out (pictures soon).

2000 GMC Yukon 4X4 + Snow + Me = Bad. Check this out, I backed down my friend's steep ass driveway today, and just as I put the truck into drive and give it some gas (in 2wd) the rear wheels start spinning. So my first reaction was to get off the accelerator pedal, and just as I do so the wheels grab traction. CRASH! I hear. But the truck is moving fine and it sounds like snow crunching under the tires. I turn left and suddenly another CRASH! and the left rear of the truck goes down. I figure "f*ck I've blown a tire," oh no, I look in the side view mirror and see the wheel rolling in circles with the hub and THREE FEET OF AXLE still attached. :eek: . So the truck is laying on the dust shield, axle grease is pouring out of the axle housing AND I've evidently broke the axle off the spider gear in the diff. Near as I can figure I got off the gas and the inertia of the rotating wheels/axles/diff broke the axle...twisted NOT sheared. So had I been misbehaving it would have been fine most likely...dammit :cry: .
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Old 01-24-2003, 12:25 PM   #9
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Man what a bummer!!!

So when are we going to race ;) LOL, I finally hooked up the btm last weekend!

Doug
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Old 01-25-2003, 07:44 PM   #10
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I'm trying to be there in the morning... tis the plan. However I had an oil leak on the feed line and didn't drive the car today, so if I can't get that sorted out I won't be there with the brick (maybe with the truck, it only cost a grand to fix it... :eek: )

Eric
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Old 01-25-2003, 09:08 PM   #11
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turbo940,

What kind of rrfpr do you have?

Tomorrow is the last test/tune day at the Rock(12:00-17:00). I think I'll give the "Ill Swede" a break. His oil is starting to look a little milky(155k on the original headgasket). Anyway lemme know when you can make it down east @ the Rock, Dog..........

Eric760Ti

14.364 in the 1/4.
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Old 01-25-2003, 09:30 PM   #12
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Eric,
I won't make it tomorrow. The Yukon is busted and I can't get more copper washers til monday (upper oil feed leak). So I can't risk driving the brick all the way down there losing oil (No Yukon, no trailer). Besides I just got the 15G on the car and it's nasty and icy and I shouldn't be trying to pre-tune it (I've already spent $1k on the Yukon) and the actuator isn't adjusted yet...and my AVC-R just took a ****...wire chafed and shorted it out (the pressure sensor is now a $75 paperweight). I think I need to hide under a rock for like two weeks now...

We'll have to meet up soon though... I need some friendly brick competition. The RRFPR is a Bell (MVP).

Eric Simpson
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Old 01-25-2003, 10:29 PM   #13
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Yeah Bro,

Sounds like we both gotta say no to Rock for the present.........Those sods at the Rock arent doing any more open drags till spring! Like to see your set up sometime, sounds interesting.

Ms. Thing has got me going to "Riverdance" tomorrow night , preceded by an entire day of honey do's(and it dont have nothin' to do with trash canning her Rex Regina FI fuel system in her 740). And she asks me why I wear a disguise whenever we're in her car(at 65 HP it doesnt have enough a$$ to pass a lawnmover!).

Well, we NC bricksters need to meet at the Rock this summer for sure.

Eric760Ti
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Old 01-25-2003, 10:29 PM   #14
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Look at the Yukon's axle!
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Old 01-26-2003, 12:55 AM   #15
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:eek: :eek: :eek:

Holy crap!!!

Doug
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Old 01-26-2003, 01:23 AM   #16
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any hope in getting GM to warrantee the part? What is the warrantee on a 2000 Yukon?
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Old 01-26-2003, 05:58 PM   #17
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If GM won't do anything for you under their "official" (ie. express) warrantee, it may well be worth hiring a lawyer to send a threatening letter to them. Courts may well hold GM liable under the implied "fitness for purpose" warranties that may be in effect in your State.

GM sure makes a lousy product in their "tough" trucks for something like that to happen to a two-year old vehicle.

Start by asking GM nicely - you get more flies with sugar... but if no joy, see a lawyer.
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Old 01-27-2003, 12:27 AM   #18
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I think I'll leave GM alone on this one.. It is simple physics, spin the rear wheels (4wd off) take foot off gas, wheels catch...inertia destroys axle (wallet?!). If I'd had it in Auto4wd or 4wd I would have been fine. So lemme see that score.... Experience 25 Wallet 0
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Old 01-27-2003, 07:42 PM   #19
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Shake 'N' Bake :shock:
I got the 15G on the car and dialed in pretty good. Lemme tell you, it's like night and day. I have noticed: More power at lower injector duty cycles, More power at lower boost, and the CBV is louder . The car is MORE responsive 'off-boost'! Soon I'll be shooting for the 300bhp mark. This turbo makes the car pull hard. My pressure sensor for my broken AVC-R will be in next week!

I did notice something myself that I had heard of previously. This turbo is spooling 'slower' but at a given psi is flowing significantly more air and therefore is able to do more work. So the small amount of 'lag' has been fully negated!

Hopefully I'll get to the Turbo Tune dyno this weekend (or next). If you're close to Greensboro, look Mark up at http://www.turbotuneusltd.com just be advised he knows more than you do, accept it and shut up! His is the home of more than a few 800hp Grand Nationals, a low 12 second type R, 700hp Supra, etc.

So here is my current mod list:
A'PEXi AVC-R
MVP (Bell) RRFPR
K&N Drop In Filter (Cone filter this week, I've been BSing)
Mandrel Bent 3" DP (I made it!)
3" Cat and Catback Magnaflow with 3" Inline Resonator
Rewired fuel pump (10 gauge powered)
Ported inlet on TB, polished, knife-edged throttle butterfly
Others.
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Old 01-27-2003, 11:39 PM   #20
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Nice!

Goddammit! I want my car running!

I hope this turbo makes the difference... have you thought about a cam?

You may beat me into the 13s... :x
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Old 01-28-2003, 12:17 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboBrick940
I think I'll leave GM alone on this one.. It is simple physics, spin the rear wheels (4wd off) take foot off gas, wheels catch...inertia destroys axle (wallet?!). If I'd had it in Auto4wd or 4wd I would have been fine. So lemme see that score.... Experience 25 Wallet 0
i dont see how spinning tires could bust an axle like that... i've had plenty of trucks and taken them in plenty of the wrong places, even 2WD trucks with lockers, and never had an axle fail like that. I'd be ALL over GM on this one. if the truck is under warranty, GM will probably get you in and out quite quicky if you are nice with them.

I've trashed differentials... busted up lockers... siezed hubs.. bent stuff... but never anything like that.

american trucks just get weaker and weaker. I like the 70's trucks... so much beefier.

maybe you should just put on a real rear end.. dana 60 or something? :D
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Old 01-28-2003, 03:11 AM   #22
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I agree with nrvate. My dad drives a 2000 dodge dakota, 5 speed, towing package, 31" tires, bilstiens 4.7L V8.

I have smoked a whole set of tires on that thing (his permission, won an award for it).

I have taken it off roading at very high speeds, air born.

I have also been spinning the tires on gravel/snow then hit the pavment, with the tires spinning in third gear (90KM/h)(Not me moving that fast, just the tires). The rear end has never showed signs of weakness. This truck has just hit 200K KM in just over 2 years.

Its kinda scary that that happened! Maybe its an SUV thing ;)

Jordan
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Old 01-28-2003, 04:18 PM   #23
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Bit-J,
Yea I've got a VX3 cam and iPD timing gear (so many mods...) and I plan on beating you into the 13s, or maybe we can meet up and break in together? As soon as my AVC-R sensor comes in I'm going to the dyno.

Others,
I realize your points on the axle, but consider I was OFF the pedal when it caught! If I'd still been in it, everything would have been fine.
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Old 01-28-2003, 06:57 PM   #24
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Oh, duh... didn't see your sig.

Do you ever get out to Bristol Dragway?
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Old 01-28-2003, 07:42 PM   #25
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Bit-J,
I didn't know there was one is bristol, but that's a five hour drive man :eek: ! That's a long tow home too. Maybe there is something between here and there, we have a couple of 1/8s near here... We should meet up though.

Late
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